Diving into brakes,while being broke.

[ksho3]

Good-day all, I have a 2010 sho non pp with terrible brakes and need some help that I haven’t been able to find on any thread yet.

Backstory:Bought this car when I was 18, roughly 5 months ago, I was lucky enough to get a good deal, but I live in Canada and since we have non stop fluctuations in temp things tend to get worn,might also have to do with my province throwing dirt and salt on the road any chance they get and not cleaning up till mid summer . Anyway, brakes are shot, need new calipers,rotors, and pads, was gonna upgrade to the 2013+ sho”s like everyone was saying but I couldn’t find any to fit my low 19 yr old bucket of 600-700$. I found autoshack drilled/slotted and all Calipers for my year and my budget. But before I bought them I thought I’d ask if yall have any recommendations on where I might be able to get bigger brakes for my budget. A U-pull won’t work,everything near me is rusted so I’d prefer new. Lmk if auto shack is a decent brand for being cheap, I’m not gonna be going crazy on the brakes but I’d like something that’ll last and not get warped immediately, thanks in advance and sorry for the novel^

 

[SHOdded]

i believe maxbrakes is out of canada. you can check their product lineup, they are pretty decent, have been performing well on our 2010 fusion sport so far. of course ebc yellowstuff is mated to them currently, but the rotors look to be wearing well.

oem is not so bad performancewise but costwise may not suit. no idea on autoshack.

calipers idk ... i have found oem to perform best. maybe if you have NAPA up there you can get rebuilt oem calipers and try those. will not be cheap regardless.

you will also want to flush the brake fluid.

 

[kryptto]

you will also want to flush the brake fluid.

Too often we dont focus on the performance killer and highest risk of damage to the braking system - fluid health.

Amazon.com

I added one of these to my maintenance kit to help me with my 3 cars. Even if you never plan to do your own brakes, $7 - come on, easy to know before you bring the car in for service if it needs a flush.

BTW HI and welcome!

 

[shaldaya]

Like kryptto said, brake fluid does in deed go bad
I had my fluid changed a while back, and there was a noticeable difference, it's fairly cheap to have it done and might help you out a bit

 

[CraxyMitch]

Too often we dont focus on the performance killer and highest risk of damage to the braking system - fluid health.

Amazon.com

I added one of these to my maintenance kit to help me with my 3 cars. Even if you never plan to do your own brakes, $7 - come on, easy to know before you bring the car in for service if it needs a flush.

BTW HI and welcome!

Insane that I didn't know this existed! Purchased immediately.

 

[Majestic]

Insane that I didn't know this existed! Purchased immediately.

Same.

 

[kryptto]

True, water from the air is absorbed by the fluid, too much water causes brake lines to rust, failure of the O rings in the master cylinder, boiling in the calipers, when the brake fluid should resist boiling from heat. Want to keep a healthy stopping car... check the fluid life. It took 3 mins tested mine on Sunday - gonna need to drain her soon.

What the cost of a large dot fluid? Few bucks?

 

[Texas Marauder]

Specifically, DOT 4 low viscosity fluid. After flushing, discard what you will not use soon. An opened container of brake fluid will absorb water and ruin the brake fluid.

Liqui Moly DOT 4 Brake Fluid 1 Liter

Shop for Liqui Moly DOT 4 Brake Fluid 1 Liter with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.

www.autozone.com

 

[luigisho]

I think that liquid moly is lv and that is probably the best price you can find locally. I ordered a cheaper priced one from amazon a few months ago for my truck. That bottle did not arrive intact. Buy local

 

[Texas Marauder]

The link I provided is low viscosity. Liquid Moly also makes standard DOT 4. Both priced about the same.

Motorcraft and Pentosin DOT 4 LV is also available on Amazon.

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

Brake fluid was not on the radar until I bought my SHO, it does make a difference good vs. bad fluid. when I did my brakes I replaced both front calipers and flushed the entire system, my fluid was completely brown, almost used engine oil color.

I recommend fresh fluid, calipers I would source from a parts house, oe repops are fine and if you have an issue you have a store to do the warranty at, pads and rotors i would try R1 concepts, a few of us are looking at them and someone here is sponsored? (help me out @kryptto ) Ive had issues with brands like detroit axle as well as more recently power stop so I cant recommend them but I believe this will put you around your budget, if i remember correctly my 2013 calipers at napa ran me around $240 for the pair, rears will likely be same or less and the kit from R1 is around $300-$400, plus a few bucks for fluid and i recommend the bleeder tool, use on brakes and PTU and RDU fluid changes. nothing about these cars comes cheap but with a fair budget you can get things done.

on a side note about warping, unless you get something made for serious braking a few high speed hard stops will warp any rotor and some come warped in the box from improper storage, might find a shop willing to put them on a laith if you have a pulse in the pedal.

 

[kryptto]

Brake fluid was not on the radar until I bought my SHO, it does make a difference good vs. bad fluid. when I did my brakes I replaced both front calipers and flushed the entire system, my fluid was completely brown, almost used engine oil color.

I recommend fresh fluid, calipers I would source from a parts house, oe repops are fine and if you have an issue you have a store to do the warranty at, pads and rotors i would try R1 concepts, a few of us are looking at them and someone here is sponsored? (help me out @kryptto ) Ive had issues with brands like detroit axle as well as more recently power stop so I cant recommend them but I believe this will put you around your budget, if i remember correctly my 2013 calipers at napa ran me around $240 for the pair, rears will likely be same or less and the kit from R1 is around $300-$400, plus a few bucks for fluid and i recommend the bleeder tool, use on brakes and PTU and RDU fluid changes. nothing about these cars comes cheap but with a fair budget you can get things done.

on a side note about warping, unless you get something made for serious braking a few high speed hard stops will warp any rotor and some come warped in the box from improper storage, might find a shop willing to put them on a laith if you have a pulse in the pedal.

Yeah I warp rotors so there is that. @yaycandy endorsed and sponsored by R1 at least in the past. I haven't changed mine yet. As far as calipers.... I have no suggestions.

 

[Zpak]

Agree, R1 concepts have proved to be pretty great. Good bite on stops and surprisingly long life span on pads.

 

[Junkyard_Mad-Scientist]

Agree, R1 concepts have proved to be pretty great. Good bite on stops and surprisingly long life span on pads.

what kind of life span are you talking? any noise? not hijacking the thread but im replacing my power stops very soon and R1 was my next pick

 

[Zpak]

Had them on my wife’s Edge sport. They were nearing 55,000 when I sold it and they still had life to give. She drove it about 23k miles a year (F me all the oil changes) Never a squeak but they were getting the drilled and slotted hum on hard stops towards the end.

Can’t remember what pads I chose. They may have been semi metallic. Either way I’m a firm believer in a proper break in for longevity sake.

 

[ksho3]

Update:
Thankyou all for your input!
I definitely took it all into consideration. I Ended up going with autoshack calipers and rotors(drilled and slotted 2013+) for anyone curious on how they bolt up to a 2010 non pp..well they worked lol. Only modification I had to make was trimming a 1/4” wide piece of dust shield on the rears so it didn’t scrape the rotors. They look great! Keep in mind that I had a budget and anything older than 5 years in Canada has rust inside and out so I can’t get used. Shipping and taxes for all four calipers,rotors,and pads came to like 750CAD which I thought was pretty d*mn good. I will post some before and afters once I get home. Although a problem has occurred,not sure if I should continue on this post or not but maybe I will for now. Problem is spongy brakes, yes there are tons of threads about this already, none really make sense to me. My brakes were terrible before but they weren’t spongy, drove it for 20k with multiple bedding-stops and they’re still bad. Bled all the brake multiple times in the proper sequence. Surely it’s not the master cylinder that decides to go right as I put on new brakes right? I first noticed this problem on the very first caliper. tired hitting the abs trick and it almost seems as tho my abs is disabled or perhaps I just can’t feel it, either way nothing.Any suggestions? And yes I flushed new brake fluid in it

 

[kryptto]

Update:
Thankyou all for your input!
I definitely took it all into consideration. I Ended up going with autoshack calipers and rotors(drilled and slotted 2013+) for anyone curious on how they bolt up to a 2010 non pp..well they worked lol. Only modification I had to make was trimming a 1/4” wide piece of dust shield on the rears so it didn’t scrape the rotors. They look great! Keep in mind that I had a budget and anything older than 5 years in Canada has rust inside and out so I can’t get used. Shipping and taxes for all four calipers,rotors,and pads came to like 750CAD which I thought was pretty d*mn good. I will post some before and afters once I get home. Although a problem has occurred,not sure if I should continue on this post or not but maybe I will for now. Problem is spongy brakes, yes there are tons of threads about this already, none really make sense to me. My brakes were terrible before but they weren’t spongy, drove it for 20k with multiple bedding-stops and they’re still bad. Bled all the brake multiple times in the proper sequence. Surely it’s not the master cylinder that decides to go right as I put on new brakes right? I first noticed this problem on the very first caliper. tired hitting the abs trick and it almost seems as tho my abs is disabled or perhaps I just can’t feel it, either way nothing.Any suggestions? And yes I flushed new brake fluid in it

Get a copy of Forscan, check for codes.

 

[SHOdded]

you have to follow the bleed sequence, using a one-man bleeder tool. need to keep the reservoir topped off during.

next you have to eliminate air from the abs. that you can do via forscan lite service procedures.

finally repeat system bleed to remove air that came out of the abs.

the problem may have been air in the main system all along but air could now be present in the abs.

 

[yaycandy]

Yeah I warp rotors so there is that. @yaycandy endorsed and sponsored by R1 at least in the past. I haven't changed mine yet. As far as calipers.... I have no suggestions.

Not for a couple years at least. You can get their deals on the their website by signing up for text alerts or emails.

 

[kryptto]

Not for a couple years at least. You can get their deals on the their website by signing up for text alerts or emails.

Good quality pads and rotors we all assume?