Crank/Cam Position Sensor

BluTyger

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Would anyone know if this is actually compatible with the Yamaha SHO engine? I've been looking at the selection of parts on Jegs, and they seem to have the largest selection of sensors and other OE parts from what I can tell.

 

luigisho

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Yes. I see that item on amazon, carid, and ebay also.

It is a camshaft sensor not a crankshaft sensor. Even when crank sensors were plentiful they were never that cheap
 

BluTyger

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Well thank you, sir. The symptoms actually fit what my Curtis is doing. Driving down the highway, rpm drops from 2500 to 0, then she starts running again a second later. Just a missed beat. I should get under there and get things replaced
 

luigisho

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Most cam sensor failures are excessive oil leaking onto the sensor. If you have an upper gasket replacement in the near future this would be the time to combine that to replace that cam seal and sensor. Also to get to the cam sensor there should be a writeup or pics to get a long extention or 2 with the correct bit or socket (been a while) and go through the passenger wheel well. There are holes in the sheetmetal behind the plastic liner and you can line it up and get a better direct contact with the fasteners from there. Too much contorting for me to get a good grip while being able to see what I am doing in there. If the intake is already off for other work then maybe that is enough room from the top.

Look for a link to a wayback link for shophoenixproject.com site. A google search will pull up shoforum threads with some useable links. It has written DIY stuff with pics to make it easier. There are more than 1 working link I think. Find the one that functions best - may have more access to pics and internal links- and bookmark that for future use. You will be under the hood and under the car plenty
 
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BluTyger

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I did a gasket replacement for the intake manifold, as well as the egr valve, because when I took it to a guy I know, the codes came back as too much 02, so there was an air leak somewhere. But I'll have to check. I also need to compile a list and where to get everything I should do while I do the crank sensor. Then I can see if there's anything wrong with the spindles. And get bushings while I'm at it huh?
I found the shophoenixproject site somehow a while back, cut a hole to get to my fuel pump with that haha.
But yeah, I'll have to order those things, maybe some subframe bushings too
 

luigisho

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For the crank sensor use that sho phoenix website. Should show about everything on that job
IF you search for front 60k you should get a list of items. Mostly front main seal at the crankshaft, waterpump (with gaskets) and timing belt. These are wear/maintenance items so, if possible with time/money/skill, you knock it all out while it's all exposed. You don't have to do it all at once but it makes it easier
 

Merrill Brown

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Would anyone know if this is actually compatible with the Yamaha SHO engine? I've been looking at the selection of parts on Jegs, and they seem to have the largest selection of sensors and other OE parts from what I can tell.

I believe the sensor is the same for 95-98 Windstar.
 

NoSlo

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For camshaft position sensor (or CID for cylinder ID), the STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS LX228, categorized in "standard" instead of "economy" on RockAuto is cheaper than Jegs, plus the forum has a discount code.

If the engine is still turning but the tach drops to 0, that's the cam sensor symptom (or the wires of the cam signal getting to the DIS module and ECU). It is easy to replace with the right 5.5mm socket for the little bolts, just pull off the intake crossover tube, and maybe move the steering reservoir out of the way.

The original crankshaft position sensor is long gone, they stopped making them or the chips needed inside. There was a group buy to recreate some for SC Thunderbirds, which use the same technology, just with shorter wires, and they made some SHO ones also. I've got a backup I might sell if you have a dead car due to it.
 

BluTyger

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For camshaft position sensor (or CID for cylinder ID), the STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS LX228, categorized in "standard" instead of "economy" on RockAuto is cheaper than Jegs, plus the forum has a discount code.

If the engine is still turning but the tach drops to 0, that's the cam sensor symptom (or the wires of the cam signal getting to the DIS module and ECU). It is easy to replace with the right 5.5mm socket for the little bolts, just pull off the intake crossover tube, and maybe move the steering reservoir out of the way.

The original crankshaft position sensor is long gone, they stopped making them or the chips needed inside. There was a group buy to recreate some for SC Thunderbirds, which use the same technology, just with shorter wires, and they made some SHO ones also. I've got a backup I might sell if you have a dead car due to it.
Yeah, I'm thinking y'all are right with the crank sensor going out. Seems to be a theme.

If you'd be willing to sell me the sensor, I'd buy it from ya. I get pretty skittish about most online purchases from stores, so it takes me a lot of time, research, and procrastination to actually get around to buying an expensive car part since I have to buy them basically once a paycheck, so I'd buy it from you since I could be more confident about it.
 

luigisho

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The good news with buying these crank sensors (even if you don't use it in the end) is they have a built in market. Supply is now always an issue and people will still need them.

Based on your available money, my first SHO almost bankrupted me with repairs, maintenance and excitement for the next modification. Burned cash, credit, etc. with a job that didn't pay alot. Be vigilant with your money. Goods and services are crazy high. Most modifications are not that great vs cost on this specific platform so be mindful.
 

NoSlo

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Yeah, I'm thinking y'all are right with the crank sensor going out. Seems to be a theme.

If you'd be willing to sell me the sensor, I'd buy it from ya. I get pretty skittish about most online purchases from stores, so it takes me a lot of time, research, and procrastination to actually get around to buying an expensive car part since I have to buy them basically once a paycheck, so I'd buy it from you since I could be more confident about it.
First you'd want confirmation that a CPS is actually the problem. When it fails, the car instantly loses all engine power like if you turned off the key. It will buck if it is intermittent, getting worse with temperature. Until finally staying dead.

A cam position sensor instead gives the tach symptom, and also will cause problems where the car only starts 50% of the time. It may be worse only when warmed due to the possibility of oil causing the problem. They shouldn't cause rough running if you go by the manual, but still seem to.
 
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zoomlater

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"thegreatbriguy" made a run of new crank sensors as well. His crank sensors have the correct connector sourced compared to the other SC website where it was a different type of connector you had to swap. If funds are tight, you can consider getting a used one.


 
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thegreatbriguy

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"thegreatbriguy" made a run of new crank sensors as well. His crank sensors have the correct connector sourced compared to the other SC website where it was a different type of connector you had to swap. If funds are tight, you can consider getting a used one.


Thank you for the plug! Also, if it matters I usually ship the next day and take all the digital payment types. Also, the recommendation to not buy one unless you are sure is a good one. If you are guessing try the cam sensor its easy and cheap. Then, if you need a crank sensor let me know by starting a conversation.
 

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