Coolant leak around t-stat

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todras

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Ok I have this "ghost" leak. It's been present since we picked up the SHO in Sept. At first thought it was over flow from the resevoir but then I tracked it to the drain on the radiator. So I replaced the radiator. Wrong! Then I thought I tracked it to the upper coolant hose to the t-stat because I could feel coolant under the metal housing after the engine warmed. So I replaced the hose. I still haven't stopped it! It's pooling up it seems where the upper hose joins the t-stat housing. I have changed the t-stat for kicks and I think an o-ring came with it. It's tricky lil bastard and have no clue on what to do next. It looses about a gallon a month.
 

Jr's Sho

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I had a coolant leak in that exact same area and figured out where mine was coming from. On the hose directly above the thermostat housing, I had a pin hole leak right near the clamp and I could see it drain down around the thermostat area. After finally taking the hose loose off, I cut it a little shorter and fixed it. Mine wasn't leaking that bad but it was noticable. You should be able to see a stain from where the coolant runs down from, mine looked like a white crusty powder. You might want to check all the smaller coolant hoses around the throttle body and intake, there are about three or four hoses in that same area, the coolant could easily run down and appear to be leaking from elsewhere.
 

SHOZ123

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Just bypass all the small hoses on the TB and IAC. You will get a bit more power from it and no coolant problems. One hose on the firewall side will bypass the whole works.
V6_TB_water_bypass_with_accent.jpg


<small>[ December 29, 2002, 08:28 AM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>
 

todras

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SHOZ123:
Just bypass all the small hoses on the TB and IAC. You will get a bit more power from it and no coolant problems. One hose on the firewall side will bypass the whole works.
Please explain the reasoning behind this.
 

KazMan

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the principal is cooler air makes more power. Your coolant can get quite hot which in turn would make your TB hot also which would increase the air temp going into the manifold.

The bypass is to lower the air temp.
 

Yamaha V6

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However, the design is to prevent your TB plate from freezing in place. :)

In my case, the rubber hose to metal hose interface to the heater lines (about halfway up the straight vertical arrow line) is weeping. As I understand it, Ford D/C'd that part, so it's "make your own" time for me...
 

SHOZ123

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I over 4 winters on my '97 and the last two on my '93 I have had no freezing problems. It is the one in a million combination of conditions that will make the TB freezing up happen. It did happen to me once in my '75 TR 7 and if you just shut the car off and wait 5 or 10 minutes the heat from the engine will thaw things out. It's not like you are in an airplane and you will fall out of the sky you know....
 

Yamaha V6

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eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee CRASH!

Yamaha Flight 30 went down in the everglades today, due to a freezing condition...

I wasn't saying mine was freezing, Paul - just answering the next question - "then why do they do that..." :)

<small>[ December 29, 2002, 01:16 PM: Message edited by: Yamaha V6 ]</small>
 

SHOZ123

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I know, I think Ford keeps that on the cars more for drivability and emmisson reasons. The TR 7 I had had twin side draft Strombergs 1bbls with a slider throttle cup or what ever they were called. Of course there wasn't anything on the Triumph that I didn't have problems with.

Whatever happen to ol' Yamaha #31?

<small>[ December 29, 2002, 05:01 PM: Message edited by: SHOZ123 ]</small>
 

Jr's Sho

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SHOZ123, so in order to do the bypass, I just loop the hose you outlined and hook it up where you drew. What do I do with the other hoses that are no longer in use? How many are getting bypassed? And could you maybe provide more pictures and descriptions of the bypass, it's hard for me to make that one picture out. If you could, please e-mail any info to [email protected]. Thanks a lot, I trust your judgement that it would be worth it.
 

Jr's Sho

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Nevermind, I figured it out. But one more question, can I leave the hose that I didn't need to disconnect from the IAC to the TB hooked up and just plug the old block to TB hose? All I did was hook the hose from the right side of the block to the left side and I stuck a big bolt in the hose that goes from the IAC to the TB. Or should I disconnect all the hoses and plug'em? Thanks.
 

pjtoledo

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SHOZ123:
Just bypass all the small hoses on the TB and IAC. You will get a bit more power from it and no coolant problems. One hose on the firewall side will bypass the whole works.
V6_TB_water_bypass_with_accent.jpg
Why did you leave the crankcase vent line open? That's the big hose at about 2 O'clock. I was wondering how you got the camera in there, then I spotted the engine stand brackets. Guess that explains why lots of stuff is unplugged.

Perry Toledo,Ohio

<small>[ December 29, 2002, 08:58 PM: Message edited by: pjtoledo ]</small>
 

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