coolant leak after front 60k

[jsj123]

I did the front 60k over the weekend, and when I drove the car last night I had a coolant leak. After sobbing, I took the boy to scouts and figured I would look at it tonight. I am hoping it is the lower radiator hose, which maybe I did not tighten enough.

The leak did not start right away, as I let the car idle in the garage for several minutes before I drove it.

Question:

How many o-rings on the water pump? I put on 2, a thick one on the transfer pipe and a small one on the other opening. I put the thick one on the pipe, not the pump, the small one I put in a groove on the pump. Shophoenix referred to 3 o rings, but I could only find 2 with the pump I bought.

Any chance I damaged my new crank sensor already with the coolant leak?

Thanks for any help.

--Stephen

 

[rubydist]

I've had a hard time getting the hose clamped to the aluminum tubes that come off the engine - in my case more on the thermostat end than the waterpump end, but the same thing is possible there - I'd check to make sure the clamp is really tight on the hose. The fact that it didn't leak right away suggests that it takes the pressure buildup to get it to leak, so it could just be a loose clamp.

In my experience, the crank sensor isn't all that tender - as long as its not getting hot water dripped on it, its okay. Once the hot water stops dripping on it, and it cools off, its okay again.

 

[yzstud]

I did the front 60k over the weekend, and when I drove the car last night I had a coolant leak. After sobbing, I took the boy to scouts and figured I would look at it tonight. I am hoping it is the lower radiator hose, which maybe I did not tighten enough.

The leak did not start right away, as I let the car idle in the garage for several minutes before I drove it.

Question:

How many o-rings on the water pump? I put on 2, a thick one on the transfer pipe and a small one on the other opening. I put the thick one on the pipe, not the pump, the small one I put in a groove on the pump. Shophoenix referred to 3 o rings, but I could only find 2 with the pump I bought.

Any chance I damaged my new crank sensor already with the coolant leak?

Thanks for any help.

--Stephen

there is 3 o-rings. 2 of them go on the transfer tube which you put one on, the other would have went on the other side of the tube.
the small o-ring seats between the block and the pump.
It can be easily pinched upon installation if u are not careful.

 

[Devin]

You need to find out which side of the engine is leaking.

Make sure the inlet on the bottom of the radiator is clamped tight, and that it is clamped tight to the hard vertical section. When I installed my pump, I had the other side off so I had to push the tube into the pump and it's a tight fit with a new o-ring, and it took some muscle.

 

[itwonder]

This is one of the most frustrating things that can happen on a SHO 60K. The metal transfer tube behind the water pump onto which you installed the large O-ring has an identical O-ring at the other end. The tube can be removed to replace that O-ring by tugging on it, and it can be a little tough to get loose. Anyway, that's the third O-ring. Usually, that one does not leak and you can get away without replacing it, and I doubt it is the culprit in your case. But I prefer to replace them.

Borrow a pressure tester from AZ or Advance Auto to help you isolate the leak. You can use a dental mirror between the intake runners to see the joint where the transfer tube goes into the pump. Pressurize the system, and you will see the joint bubble if it is leaking.

The small O-ring may have slipped out of position when it was installed, or its mating surface on the block may have been corroded/dirty. Use a very small amount of RTV to glue the O-ring into the groove on the pump, and let it cure before installing.

Use antifreeze (only) to lubricate the O-rings when installing the pump.

It is less likely, but possible, that you may have gotten a bad pump. I had a Cardone rebuilt pump leak within 100 miles, and I do not use those anymore. Others claim better luck with them. I prefer the brand new pump available from AZ. It is made in Japan and identical to the factory OEM pump.

I use the Felpro O-ring kit to make sure I have the right O-rings and enough of them.

I doubt the CPS is damaged. Just wash it with detergent and water.

Pressure test after hooking up your hoses but before reassembly to assure no leaks. Redoing the 60K is no fun! BTW, don't try to shortcut and change the pump without removing all three timing covers. It's tempting, but it does not work.

 

[jsj123]

Thanks everybody.

It is not the lower radiator hose. It is definitely coming from the middle of the water pump. Here goes another front 60k. I am planning on using studs to slide the water pump on again. I hope the o rings are not damaged, I am not sure they are easily available.

I get every other Friday off, I hope the second time goes much quicker. I am also going to do the pressure test before I button things up again.

 

[sdpatt]

The O-rings are easily available with the Fel-Pro ES70425 water pump gasket set for about $6 from most auto parts stores. This set includes the three O-rings, the pump casing gasket and the inlet pipe gasket that rarely ever gets touched. I'm sorry for your need to rework the front end. Please remove the timing belt so that it does not get covered with the slippery ethylene glycol. The CPS should be fine.

I second the suggestion of using a thin film of RTV (silicone) to hold the thinner O-ring in place on the pump housing while the parts are being assembled. Make sure you clean the channel that the O-ring sits in and the area on the block against which it seats. That O-ring always seemed a bit thin to me. Because of that, ensure that you do not get any RTV or other obstructions between the pump and the engine block. That spacing will decrease the pressure on the O-ring.

 

[jsj123]

Ok, I am redoing the front 60k. Goes much quicker the second time, and air tools help a bunch. Just pulled the timing belt covers and my timing belt appears to be slipping off the edge of the pulley. I searched and did not find anything on this. What did I do wrong when I put in on the first time?

--Stephen

 

[jsj123]

I think I found it. It looks like I did not tighten the bolts on the top pulley enough. Must go kick myself. Fortunately the engine has less than ten minutes on it since last finished the job.

--Stephen

 

[smokekicsazz]

I have same problem with coolant leak too. Did front 60 K last year....My water pump is leaking again...I am getting the same squeling noise and steam coming off my cat again from the coolant dripping on it. I bought a NEW pump from AZ last year I am going to warranty it...That SOB was 140 bones!!!!! Timing belt was close to 70 bones!! I also am wondering if they will warranty my timing belt since coolant has contaminated the belt from the pump failure. My crank sensor has not failed yet but I am expecting it to soon.

Hey BTW what and where did you get the studs for the water pump? Could you give me the PN#s and place where you got them? I had a problem with the damn o-ring moving around when I did my water pump replacement and ended up cutting it on accident...I had to order another o-ring kit from Advance and it took 4 days!!! Thanks .....

 

[jsj123]

I got mine from a local machine shop, but they looked like this:

http://www.msdiscount.com/columnar.aspx?category_site=STARTOOL&cat_id=1970&prod_id=9700

The sho runs beautifully now. No misses, starts right up. I am wondering if the top 60k, valve stem seals, rod bearing and new oil pan gasket is going to make it feel like a new car.

--Stephen