Centerline Forged Vantage wheel

[FAST4DR]

Anybody like this wheel. Centerline has it for $175.00 each. 17x7 under 15 lbs. 1200 lb load rating. Think it would clear the PBR calipers?

Will

 

[n8rsk8r]

I do, I think it would look better if you could incorporate the machined look into something else on the body, somehow?!

 

[rktmn]

I like them, but when I upgrade my wheels, I will go to 17X8's. I llike the fat tire look. I would go to 8 1/2's if I could find them and fit them in my
SHO.

I agree with n8, you could install an aluminum billet gas cap to go with the look.

Jose

 

[SHO Nick]

Anybody like this wheel. Centerline has it for $175.00 each. 17x7 under 15 lbs. 1200 lb load rating. Think it would clear the PBR calipers?

Will

I Love them...wish they had them in gunmetal tho..

 

[NWGRN94MTX]

I Love them...wish they had them in gunmetal tho..

They do make them in Black Pearl.

http://www.centerlinewheels.com/wheel_deals_detail.php?id=170&type=bolt&data=5-4.25

 

[rktmn]

BTW, who makes 17"X8" lightweight wheels that will fit the SHO.

I like the 5 spoke design, but will settle for something else not too radical.

I may be able to get another year or 2 out of my tires now, so I have plenty of time to look around, but I would like to put the fattest tires I can fit under my SHO.

I plan to cut the inside fender lips and pull them out a bit if necessary, and upgrade my brakes.

Those centerlines are nice.

Jose

 

[K-Dawg]

If I were to buy wheels again, I would get 17x8" ROH Snypers. They aren't really lightweight, but they aren't heavy.

 

[SHO Nick]

They do make them in Black Pearl.

http://www.centerlinewheels.com/wheel_deals_detail.php?id=170&type=bolt&data=5-4.25

Lol...anyone want some Cobra's?

 

[NWGRN94MTX]

Check out the Team Dynamics Pro Race 2, You can get them from Josh at SHONut Performance. Link through the banner add from here (SHO Forum).

BTW, who makes 17"X8" lightweight wheels that will fit the SHO.

I like the 5 spoke design, but will settle for something else not too radical.

I may be able to get another year or 2 out of my tires now, so I have plenty of time to look around, but I would like to put the fattest tires I can fit under my SHO.

I plan to cut the inside fender lips and pull them out a bit if necessary, and upgrade my brakes.

Those centerlines are nice.

Jose

 

[Yamaha V6]

Question is, can you actually GET THEM, from Team Dynamics? I finally sent an email to Don Kane at Team Dynamics on Friday telling him not to bother worrying about sending me the 17x8 Pro Race 1's I've been waiting for since June 2003, or the 17x7.5 wheels he said he could get me a few months ago.

If Josh says he has them or he can get them, that's fine, I trust Josh completely. But if he's basing it on what TD says, don't hold your breath.

Centerlines:
1200# load rating I believe is what KaoticSHO had on his Centerlines, and IIRC, one cracked. Under static load, 1200# is fine. In the twisties, I'd think that's pushing it Will.

 

[jedhead]

BTW, who makes 17"X8" lightweight wheels that will fit the SHO.

I like the 5 spoke design, but will settle for something else not too radical.

I may be able to get another year or 2 out of my tires now, so I have plenty of time to look around, but I would like to put the fattest tires I can fit under my SHO.

I plan to cut the inside fender lips and pull them out a bit if necessary, and upgrade my brakes.

Those centerlines are nice.

Jose

I have 17X8 +35 offset OZ Racing Superleggera on my 1991 SHO. They weigh ~17 lbs each. I have mounted 235/45-WR17 Yokohama ES100 tires. I had to roll the rear fenders and trim a little bit of the plastic trim at the front of the driver's side rear wheel well too. When checking for fitment, the tightest clearances are in the driver's side rear wheel well. The front wheels and tires are almost flush with the fenders. I looked at the centerlines but I was concerned about the 1200 lbs weight rating and tire diameter limits. I can imagine exceeding 1200 pound rating trail braking into a corner at high speeds easily. I don't want to have a wheel failure then. I have posted some pictures here:

http://www.tauruscarclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=9874

http://www.tauruscarclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=9875

Bob

 

[rktmn]

Bob,

How close are the tires to the shocks?

I have 235's on my slicers and the inside of the tire is about 1/2" from the shock? They have never rubbed, but there isn't any more room there. there is about 1" to 1 1/2" of space on the outside.

Could you fit 245's on your wheels without rubbing?

Do the Gen II have larger wheel wells?

Ideally you need to have access to different wheels and tires and see what would be the best combination..

Anybody ever tried anything over 245's?

Showya has the right idea, but it is an expensive solution.

Jose

 

[jedhead]

I have about 1/2" of clearance to the shocks. The GEN2 is supposed to have a little more room than the GEN1 but that is what I have heard not seen. I have seen 245/45ZR-17 mounted on TSW Hock R on a Gen 1. His rear fender was rolled and flared out more than mine to clear. I tried 225/50-17 and 225/45-17 before I went with the 235's. I felt the 225/45 looked too short and 225/50 looked ok and would clear without rolling the fender. The problem I had with the 225/50 was the only summer tire available was Michelin MXX3 for $190 each. I spent $80 rolling the fender and $320 less on tires. 245's with the wheels I have would put out the tire outside the fender in the front. They do make OZ's with a -40 offset but they are only recommended on the GEN3 SHO and I thought the tires would be too close to the struts.

Bob

 

[FAST4DR]

Centerlines:
1200# load rating I believe is what KaoticSHO had on his Centerlines, and IIRC, one cracked. Under static load, 1200# is fine. In the twisties, I'd think that's pushing it Will.

I was wondering about the 1200 lb load rating. I also think it may be too low for the way I drive the car.

 

[olympic]

The 1200lb load rating is for STATIC weight, ie- the weight on each wheel when the car is not moving. Obviously Centerline has designed the wheel to withstand the dynamic(moving) forces a 1200lb static load can create under normal circumstances. So as long as your car has less than 1200lbs on each wheel, you should have no worries. Now if you're running sticky race rubber and flog your car at the road course/auto-X every weekend, then that is probably not considered normal circumstances.

Also remember that Kaotic's wheel failure was a manufacturers defect. And wern't they 19's? That's an aweful big wheel to combine with "rubber band" ratio tires for street duty. One good pothole could damage the wheel. I think if you stick with the 17's and some tires with a descent sidewall you'll be OK.

 

[shojuan]

The 1200lb load rating is for STATIC weight, ie- the weight on each wheel when the car is not moving. Obviously Centerline has designed the wheel to withstand the dynamic(moving) forces a 1200lb static load can create under normal circumstances. So as long as your car has less than 1200lbs on each wheel, you should have no worries. Now if you're running sticky race rubber and flog your car at the road course/auto-X every weekend, then that is probably not considered normal circumstances.

Also remember that Kaotic's wheel failure was a manufacturers defect. And wern't they 19's? That's an aweful big wheel to combine with "rubber band" ratio tires for street duty. One good pothole could damage the wheel. I think if you stick with the 17's and some tires with a descent sidewall you'll be OK.

His were 17's. If you go by the front GAWR and rear GAWR listed on sticker in the driver's door jamb you will see that the 1200 lb weight rating of the wheels doesn't support the front GAWR (front GAWR > 2X1200) but does for the rear. Best bet as far as being informed about how you are loading your car is to get some numbers to place with. Get the SHO on some corner scales to measure the actual corner weights (the front is what you need to look out for) and see if the ACTUAL front corners are under 1200 lbs with front passengers. Or (ignoring side to side differences. They aren't that huge) find a big scale (maybe ask at your local sand and gravel place next time you buy some bulk sand or gravel. This is what I plan to do) and weigh with just the front wheels (with drivers and passengers) on the scale to get the actual gross axle weight for the front (Is it less than the RATED numbers in the door jamb?) Then for completeness measure with all four wheels to get the GAW for the whole vehicle. Then subtract the front axle weight you measured from the total GAW and you'll have the rear gross axle weight.

Now the axle weight ratings have a lot to do with what the drive train can support but I assume this includes the idea that the whole package, drivetrain, suspension, and body, is designed to hold together under reasonable driving conditions (engineers knew SHO was a sports sedan and that all balls out driving would generate higher dynamic loads than a comparable SLO) if the actual weight supported by the front tires is kept under the front GAWR. The difference between the curb weightXfront weight distribution ratio and the front GAWR is a number that represents how many pounds the cargo and options (original or otherwise) can contribute to the weight already supported on the front tires. With a load rating lower than front GAWR/2, these centerline wheels will reduce the allowed cargo contribution by a certain amount. In the case of my 89 I calculate this as a 38% reduction. This is an interesting number. Let's see, if having a 250 lb male driver and 175 lb female driver were acceptable with the stock car and we wanted to chop off 38% of the cargo weight that would mean that a 155 lb man (me minus 10 lbs) would need a 110 lb female, give or take a few lbs, as a passenger...in other words the female co-pilot would need to be ******* bunny sized. Could you imagine? "Um, honey, you need to lose weight so the SHO will be safe with these new rims I bought" . Easier to switch AWA's than escape unscathed after delivering that news. :****: Actually not quite this straight forward because not all of the front passenger weight is supported by the front wheels and we really want to be playing with the inventory of pounds rather than applying percentages. This is why direct measurement with scales is useful. But it's still useful to play around with the numbers from the specs to get an idea of what you can and can't get away with and just how much you are shrinking your allowed weight margins. Lets play with some numbers.

As an example I believe the Gen I SHO front to rear weight distribution ratio is 62.9/37.1. I'll use my 89 SHO as an example. Curb weight is 3300 lbs. Curb weight is defined as the weight of the vehicle not including, cargo or any optional equipment.

Curb weight 3300 lbs split 62.9% front and 37.1% rear.
front GAWR = 2599 lbs = ~1300 lbs
front weight no cargo = ~1040 lbs per front wheel. (.629Xcurb weight/2)
Cargo's allowed contribution to front load = 260 lbs per wheel

Now with the Centerline 1200 lb rated wheels. Let's just assume that wheel plus tire weights don't change when going from weaves to 17 inchers. People always forget about the tire weight anyways :roll_eyes: :

front weight no cargo is still ~1040 lbs per front wheel
Cargo's allowed contribution to the front load = 160 lbs per wheel.

And I got my 38% figure way at the top by dividing the difference by the original number -> 100 lbs/260 lbs = ~ .38

Light guys with light passengers need not be too concerned as long as they pretend that they are big guys when they get the idea of adding a bunch of weight to the front...In other words they should think twice before adding all that heavy stereo equipment to the front, rod shifters, subframe connectors, whatever. There is just less margin for carrying heavy stuff bearing on the front wheels than what the factory made an allowance for. 38% less in the case of my 89. It's not the the driveline or body structure cares. All that stuff would (barely) be within acceptable safety margins with an extra 200 lbs bearing on those front wheels. It's that the centerline lightweight forged wheels are going to be right at their rated static load limit with a much less than the "big guy" passengers that the factory allowed with the stock 89 vehicle. Keep in mind that the curb weights are higher for all other SHOs. Also the GAWR numbers are different. The amount of allowed cargo might remain similar to an 89's but the amount of vehicle weight minus cargo will be closer to the 1200 lb rated limits of the centerline wheels...they might even be over with some of the heavier cars like the ATX models. In the case of Jason (kaotic SHO) and the centerline RPMs, he had a car with a 300 lb higher stock curb weight (an ATX) than my 89. Also he's a big guy, he might be closer to 7' than to 6'. The weight of goodies in his glovebox and underhood are substantial. To be fair there are also some substantial weight reductions on that car: Wilwood brakes, lighter seats. If somebody wants to provide the front GAWR and F/R weight distribution ratio for the ATX models I could redo my 89 example above to compare to a car that ran 17X7 Centerline RPMs and had a wheel failure. Keep in mind that Centerline's position on that incident was that there was a manufacturing defect in the failed wheel. Nevertheless it would be interesting to see just how close the static loads of those wheels were to their static load rating.

I did a quick shoforum search and found that netviper Bruce measured the front corner weights of his 94 MTX SHO with him in the driver's seat at 1197 lbs for one wheel and 1206 lbs for the other. Right at the RPM load limit.

Now back to my 89 example. How could we get back some of this 200 lbs of lost front wheel bearing cargo so that I can gain 100 lbs of beer gut and carry TWO playbody bunnies in the front passenger seat and still be within the 1200 static load rating of Centerline forged 17X7 wheels?

relocate battery to trunk. ~50 lbs plus it shifts the F/R weight distribution a bit towards the rear, lowering the percentage of curb weight the front wheels must bear a little bit more.

wilwood brakes ~7 lbs.

The centerline RPM wheels themselves = ~10 lbs.

Tire differences = ? lbs A 215/50-17 tire will likely weigh less than a 215/65-15 tire. Weights differ between tire models of the same size too.

Lighter front seats = ~80 lbs X whatever percentage of front seat weight actually bears on the front wheels.

Carbon fiber front hood = ~ 35 lbs


That should more than do it. Remember when you take off weight from the front that the weight distribution ratio shifts towards the rear a little bit. How much depends on where exactly you remove the weight from.

Brain teasers: The front seats are just behind the center of gravity on a stock 89 SHO. 39” behind the front axle is where the front part of the front seats begin. The front part of the mounting bracket a few inches beyond that and the rear of the mounting bracket a few inches more past that. When you relocated the battery to the trunk you shifted the center of gravity towards the rear a little bit. You decide to keep moving parts from the front to the trunk until unwittingly the car’s center of gravity moves behind the front seat. Now how is that front seat’s weight going to fare on the front wheels with your fat *** on it? You decide to lose 50 lbs dieting and replace the front seats with units 80 lbs lighter because you are concerned that the center of gravity is now behind the front seats. The car now weighs less but the center of gravity continued to move backwards (when this happens a larger percentage of the total vehicle weight rests on the front wheels). In your confusion you decide to replay the above scenarios except you decide to add sandbags into the mix (sandbags in the trunk). You get really confused and then decide to take a Statics class to make your brain hurt less and point out the error of my ways.

Best bet is to take actual car measurements on corner scales.

 

[Bizzy]

I'll be corner weighing my car ext spring after I get a GEN 3 subframe, knuckles, and rack in my fat heavy 94.

I too was looking at those wheels. I think with a little work, I can get rid of 100-150lbs from the front of the car.

 

[jedhead]

One other item you may want to consider is the strength of the wheel. The wheel may support the weight, but will the wheel be strong enough not to flex under cornering loads because you are close to the weight limit? The two main reasons I went with the OZ's were that they have high enough load rating for our cars and they are extremely strong. The strength and light weight comes from the aluminum/titanium alloy used. When I was researching wheels, the Centerlines also had a tire diameter limit which limited the maximum size, if I recall correctly, to a 225/45-17. 235/45-17 exceeded the maximum diameter for the Centerlines RPM's that I was considering. Kazera makes some 17X7 wheels that wiegh about 18 lbs each for $130 that I thought about getting, but I wanted the 8" wheel width.

I found a site that lists the wheel weights.

http://wheelweights.net/

Bob