CE Light stays on? Bad 02 sensor?

[95SHOgirl]

I noticed yesterday that when I start my car up, and put the car into Drive, I can drive for about 2-3min and my CE light comes on and stays on. I'm think a bad 02 sensor since the dealer I brought the car from said they replaced the mufflers. I was also thinking perhaps a bad cat.

Can someone help me on this issue and tell me what you think could be the possible issue which could cause the CE light to come and stay on? The CE light does not flash, it's a solid yellow color. The car runs great. But I'm worried about this CE light. I don't wont to cause major damage to my engine. If it's something small like the 02 sensor, I can have that replaced later this week. If it's the cat. I'll just buy a full cat system. However, I'm really thinking that it's the 02 sensors. I remember reading that when one replaces those pipes, that one should also replace the 02 sensor. I'm thinking that the dealer didn't replace the 02 sensor and that's what is causing the CE light to come on.


Thanks,

 

[Mels]

I noticed yesterday that when I start my car up, and put the car into Drive, I can drive for about 2-3min and my CE light comes on and stays on. I'm think a bad 02 sensor since the dealer I brought the car from said they replaced the mufflers. I was also thinking perhaps a bad cat.

Can someone help me on this issue and tell me what you think could be the possible issue which could cause the CE light to come and stay on? The CE light does not flash, it's a solid yellow color. The car runs great. But I'm worried about this CE light. I don't wont to cause major damage to my engine. If it's something small like the 02 sensor, I can have that replaced later this week. If it's the cat. I'll just buy a full cat system. However, I'm really thinking that it's the 02 sensors. I remember reading that when one replaces those pipes, that one should also replace the 02 sensor. I'm thinking that the dealer didn't replace the 02 sensor and that's what is causing the CE light to come on.


Thanks,

Check them codes...

http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html

Thanks to SDPatt for the link.

Good luck

 

[95SHOgirl]

Update....just took my mom to church and I put the EATC on auto and the CE light did not come on at all.

P.s. Thanks, I learn to start checking codes.

 

[luigisho]

IF you want to be lazy, Autozone will check them for free.

 

[rangerj]

SHOGIRL,

If the CE light comes on something needs attention, even if it is intermitent. As stated above, check for "fault codes" and get back to us. Frequently the problem is a loose connection, or a little corrosion on the connection, a loose connecting pin or spade connector.

If there are any codes stored in the ECU (computer) they will help by telling you where to look for the problem, that is which sensor and/or its wires and connections to look at and test. rangerj

 

[SHOdownTN]

SHOGIRL,

If the CE light comes on something needs attention, even if it is intermitent. As stated above, check for "fault codes" and get back to us. Frequently the problem is a loose connection, or a little corrosion on the connection, a loose connecting pin or spade connector.

If there are any codes stored in the ECU (computer) they will help by telling you where to look for the problem, that is which sensor and/or its wires and connections to look at and test. rangerj

I agree with Ranger. Even if the light isn't on anymore it should still be stored and a sensor doesn't just fix it's self.
BTW if you get the notorious 332 code the EGR nostrils in the intake need to be cleaned before spending alot of cash swapping sensors.

 

[95SHOgirl]

I took the car on the road again. The CE light is back on again. I hear what you all are saying to me, at this point, I can't do a fault code check because I don't have the equipment to do it. In 3 more weeks I'm looking to get my second loan return check. I'm looking into taking the car to Brunswick Automotive & Mobility Professionals. They were refered to me by SHOtime members. Their website says that they work on SHO cars. So, I will take it to them for a full Maintenance and Repair job on the SHO. Sadly, I do need my car for going back and forth to school and I don't know of any SHO maintenance shops in my area that would very inexpensive for me to learn what the problem is. Is it safe to just take my car into any mechanic and ask for a diagnostic work up?

Lastly, if there is anyone in my area or surrounding area-Philadelphia, Pa/NJ/DE-with a SHO and has experience working on thier SHO and has the needed equipment, I'd be very much willing to pay you for your service to learn what the problem is. The weekends would be best for me and this weekend would be perfect since I get paid this weekend. Otherwise, I'll have to see If I can get it into a good mechanic here in philly that offers a diagnostic test for like $60.

Thanks,

 

[95SHOgirl]

Ok...I've noticed a problem which I've been writing about in another section. My CE light comes on and stays on. I've noticed that my car never really warms up. The needle never makes it into the normal range area nor does it say it's overheating. It just sits right between the cold and normal area. If I drive a long distance, it will move just above about a hair above that line where it says normal. However, it's still very close to the cold position. I'm thinking the thermostat is stuck open which also means that the CE light would come on and stay on.

Could I be wrong? Someone please offer me advice. However, I'm banking on the thermostat. All the sign are there that say thermostat issues.

Thanks,

P.S. I can do this kind of work myself unless it requires tools which I don't have around the house. If there is any instructions on fixing this problem which I'm sure is causing my CE light to come on and stay on and my temp needle to stay in the cold position, please let me know.

 

[SLOSHO89]

I replied to your other thread in the General SHO Related section. But, to run the codes all you need is a paper clip, so you can't say you don't have the equipment.....

Efren

 

[Huntervf]

As stated, you don't need any special equipment to check your codes. All you need is a paper clip, a pen and some paper.

Josh at the SHOPP website has an outstanding tutorial on how to check your codes, including pictures and a nifty little flash pic that shows you what the CE light looks like when it's checking codes. Seriously, checking codes on a gen II SHO is easier than filling the car with gas. Here's a direct link to the tutorial:

http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm

It's been my experience that the ATX cars indicate a lower temp reading than the MTX cars. My 93 ATX will seldom climb much above the N, but the electric fan kicks on just fine and the car blasts out hot air after 4-5 minutes of warming up in South Dakota winters. My 95 ATX was exactly the same, before and after I changed the t-stat and sending unit. As long as your car is throwing out good heat in 5 minutes or so you probably don't have to worry about your thermostat. Also, a stuck thermostat will NOT set off a CE light in these cars.

In your case, since you said the car still runs great your early suspicions of an O2 sensor are probably correct. Since the light isn't always on it sounds like one or both of the sensors are working intermittently, which is why you're getting a CE light and also why the car still seems to run good. I've seen the exact same behavior numerous times on numerous different SHO's, the most recent being my 93 ATX. But, you still need to check your engine codes and verify that O2 sensors are indeed the problem, as a mildly plugged EGR valve can do the same thing, though that will ususally affect the idle to a degree as well.

In either case I wouldn't be too worried about that CE light. Obviously you'll want to get the codes and fix the problem as soon as you can but as long as the car is still running ok and you don't see/hear anything out of the ordinary you should be ok.

 

[95SHOgirl]

Here are the codes I was able to pull during lunch break....

A bunch of 1's each followed with a pause. Then the 3 digit codes:

762
221
433
265
917
621
221
433
265

Then a single code of 9

All but one code is listed on the links I followed. The rest of the codes I have no idea what is going on.

I'll test again once I get home from school today.

So far, one of the code is a transmission code. I know it can't be the transmission since they replaced the transmission just less than a 1000 miles ago.

However, I'm beginning to think it could be the transmission or it could be just stored codes in the memory which they never reset.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

Sounds like your code-reading needs a little fine-tuning. Try one of the links in my sig:

 

[95SHOgirl]

I've ran this test twice already and keep getting the same codes

After running the test again, I still get the same codes. This time I understand it a little better.

762
221
433
265

9

762
221
433
265

9

Now perhaps I'm not doing something right or I'm reading the codes wrong. But, I'm counting the flashes and those are the #'s it giving me. I'll do one more test once I get home from school today. However, I do think that there must be codes which I'm missing or not reading correctly.

 

[95SHOgirl]

Ok I re-did the test once I got home...I was reading the codes wrong and I had forgot to put the car in Nuetral before doing the test.

Here is what I got:

176-o2 sensor
212
214
332-EGR
654

The rest of the codes I have a list of and I'll take care of the most important first and then take care of the least important.

From this list, how much am I looking at? I don't want to pay over $1700 since I'm trying to have some money left over for the Hi-flow Y-pipe and Dynomax Full cat.

 

[SLOSHO89]

I like those numbers much better. Good job on figuring it out, its always a pain the first time you do it.

176, get a new O2 sensor...

212, I'm not really sure, but I believe it may be related to your code 214

214, is the Cam Identification Sensor. It is mounted on the rear valve cover near the power steering pump (in line with the rear most cam). Its a little round thing with a wire plug sticking out of it.

332, The passage to the EGR valve is probably plugged up with intake gunk (nasty black stuff).

654, I don't know what that is, maybe try running the codes again

As far as how you should go about dealing with it.... First off, you should reset the codes. It is possible that some of those codes were old stored codes that were never cleared and it deffinatly doesn't hurt. Then re-check the codes.

If you did all the work yourself I think you should be able to get the parts for about $130. The CID is about $55 and the O2 sensor is about $65 + shipping.... Those prices are from ShoNut. The parts would be cheaper from a local autoparts store, just check around.

Even if you pay some one to do it you should be no where near $1700. You sounded like you weren't afraid to get dirty and do it yourself (unlike most girls...) so that is good. Both the CID and O2 sensor are pretty easy and strait forward, unbolt old part, bolt in new one.

Efren

 

[95SHOgirl]

Thanks Efren,

The 654 code is a code that lets you know that the car was in neutral during the test. It took me a while to learn what that code was. I had to run the test like 4 times yesterday in the rain in my school's parking lot.

The 212 code is Ignition TACH signal was erratic (module/wiring) or SPOUT circuit fault.

Now that I know what these codes are, I have a better understanding of the seriousness of the problem. None of the codes are pull off the road immediately and don't drive until corrected codes. These are codes that I can live with until I can get it to the SHO shop next month. I plan on doing a major tune up possibly the 60K if I have enough money. I got their name off of SHOTimes.com.

Lastly, yes, I like to do my own work as long as I can and understand what I'm doing. I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty and rather I do my own work or not depends on how I feel about the job. If I feel that it's beyond my level of understanding, then I seek help. I have some learning to do with this engine. However, as time goes by and I watch people work on my car or there is a step by step instruction on doing something, it won't be long before I'll be out there doing my own work.

Ok...homework time...later

 

[projectSHO89]

. These are codes that I can live with until I can get it to the SHO shop next month. I plan on doing a major tune up possibly the 60K if I have enough money. I got their name off of SHOTimes.com.

Do yourself a favor and check out the vendor feedback section before taking anything to SHO Shop....

All-in-all, the combination of codes you have is typical, as are the cures.

Good luck and congrats on sticking with it.

Steve

 

[95SHOgirl]

The Shop I'm talking about is not the shop that everyone is aware of. Maybe I shouldn't have used the name SHOshop. I just call it that because they are SHO specialist. Here is the website:

http://www.brunswickautopros.com/

 

[rangerj]

SHOGIRL,

You have a long weekend comming up and a couple of weeks before "next month" when you intend to have the work done professionally. So, in the interim do yourself a favor and get your hands dirty.

If you have read through the current threads you have seen the advice regarding electrical connections posted several times. The first step YOU can take is to check for any connection problems. Start with the DIS (distributorless Ignition System) connections. Check the connections on both sides of the DIS module. More info if you want it?

The two botton screws that hold the DIS module to the intake crossover tube to the plenums are "ground" screws. Are they clean and making good contact? Is the ground strap at the back of the intake making good contact. Is the connection to the CID sensor making good contact? Do you get the idea? More info if you want it?

The lean O-2 sensor code (always lean) could indicate a failed sensor of a vacuum leak. Do you hear a hissing noise when the engine is running? More info if you want it?

The tests for the DIS system is done with a simple digital multi-meter. Do you have access to one? They are about $25 at Sears. If you want to try some diagnostics BEFORE you have a professional work on your car you may be able to save a lot of money. The going rate for a mechanics time is $75 to $125 an hour. I would bet that in the City of Brotherly Love the rate tends toward the high end! More info if you want it?

If your school schedule will allow a little time for diagnostic work on the SHO you can depend on the forum members to "walk" you through the diagnostics.
Let us know if you are willing to get your hands dirty, and we will guide them. rangerj

 

[PAracer]

The 176 refers to the front o2 sensor. You should be able to take care of that with the car on ramps and a wrench. There is a special socket for the sensor that you can get from most parts stores. I happen to know that Autozones have the Bosch sensors in stock. The part number is 15729, IIRC.

Fixing that code is easy and may get rid of other codes.

The 214, CID code is not so bad either. It is most likely a leaky cam seal fouling the sensor. The purpose of the CID sensor is to determine the location of the cam lobes when starting the engine. With a bad sensor, the motor will crank over a few times before firing off. You can certainly drive a while with a bad sensor. To remove it, the power steering resivior must be unbolted and moved out of the way (2 bolts, IIRC). Same goes with the intake crossover (4 hose clamps, 2 bolts). The sensor itself is a pain to get to, but is only held by two screws.

If you'd like to come down to West Chester, I'd be glad to check out the car and take care of the o2 sensor for you.

This weekend is good for me, except for Sunday afternoon of course.