Can someone tell me these codes

[tery]

So, my daughter calls it dimensions...when I forget things, I've keep forgetting to ask the forum, ...When the car went in last week, it had these codes, that came from a professional code reader.
Some of them may no longer be valid, for example, I have not had a stalling incident since I cleaned the MAS and changed air cleaner, but I would like to know what they are. Thanks in advance,
Terry

118
122
172
176
177
332
543

Stay Warm!!

 

[mroldan9]

(O) = Key On Engine Off test
(R) = Key On Engine Running test
(M) = Memory code

118 - (O,M) ECT sensor is/was high or open - ECT
122 - (O,M) TP low (possibly grounded or open circuit) - TPS
172 - (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right orr Rear HO2S - Fuel control
176 - (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean Left or Front HO22SSS - Fuel control
177 - (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system was rich Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
332 - (R,M) EGR did not open/respond during test or if memory code, did not open intermittantly - EVR or PFE
543 - (O) Fuel pump monitor circuit shows no power - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits
(M) (Service 556 code first if present) Fuel pump relay or battery power feed was open - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits

The Sho Phoenix Project website is useful for many things Sho related, check it out!

http://web.archive.org/web/20110125052258/http://www.shophoenixproject.com/

 

[tery]

thank you thank you, I half understand three quarters of your answer, I'll keep learning,
Take Care,
Terry

 

[rubydist]

you need to clear those codes and drive the car for a while to learn what are current codes and what are old codes.

The reason I say that is I have never seen legit lean and rich codes for the same bank at the same time.

Clear the codes, drive the car about 3 days, then check codes again and let us know what is there then.

 

[tery]

thank you I'll clear them and let you know...

Clear by just disconnecting negative bat cable for a minute...right??

 

[rubydist]

best way to clear is by pulling off your jumper wire while the codes are still flashing.

the factory says disconnecting the battery for a minimum of 5 minutes will clear them, but I had at least one SHO that would take much longer disconnected to actually clear them.

also, if you pull off the jumper wire, it will clear the codes but not lose all the adaptive learning for idle and a/f ratios, whereas if you pull off the battery cable all that adaptive learning stuff will be lost and it will take a few days or more to re-learn it all.