SASHO91
Zoom Zoom
I Have noticed that many members have had some issues when trying to replace the CID (Cam Sensor), which is located on the rear (right) bank, on the exhaust cam. This is due to the fact that space is limited in that area, and most of us don't have hands of a 5year old. These pictures were taken on my 93'.
Here is the tool list:
1/4'' Drive Ratchet
1/4'' Extensions (at a minimum, 2-3 4'' units; the pics will explain)
1/4'' 5/32'' socket
1/4'' swivel
NOTE: If your car has been lowered, you may need to raise the passenger side slightly to gain access to the fender well.
Grab your tools(and connect them properly), and follow the pics.
--Here we are looking through the passenger wheel well. Notice the strut/spring. As you can see through the small hole, you have access to the rear, P.I.T.A, CID bolt.
--Here we can see our tools connected together, and inserted into the small hole in picture 1. Notice that going through the strut/spring is a direct shot. If you do not have access to long extensions, you may be able to use just one short extension and use the ratchet close to the unibody.
--Finally, a picture from inside the engine bay. Self-explanatory there...
As for the 'front' bolt, you can use the swivel and get to that one as well.
For ATX cars; This method is not needed as much as on the MTX. Reason being, the ATX engine sits farther forward, which in turn makes for a slightly easier access to the CID. I HAVE used this method on ATX cars, mainly because of the ease of the removall/install. If you do use this method on an ATX car, you WILL need a swivel regaurdless, and the front bolt will be slightly harder to get to (due to the location of the engine).
Here is the tool list:
1/4'' Drive Ratchet
1/4'' Extensions (at a minimum, 2-3 4'' units; the pics will explain)
1/4'' 5/32'' socket
1/4'' swivel
NOTE: If your car has been lowered, you may need to raise the passenger side slightly to gain access to the fender well.
Grab your tools(and connect them properly), and follow the pics.
--Here we are looking through the passenger wheel well. Notice the strut/spring. As you can see through the small hole, you have access to the rear, P.I.T.A, CID bolt.
--Here we can see our tools connected together, and inserted into the small hole in picture 1. Notice that going through the strut/spring is a direct shot. If you do not have access to long extensions, you may be able to use just one short extension and use the ratchet close to the unibody.
--Finally, a picture from inside the engine bay. Self-explanatory there...
As for the 'front' bolt, you can use the swivel and get to that one as well.
For ATX cars; This method is not needed as much as on the MTX. Reason being, the ATX engine sits farther forward, which in turn makes for a slightly easier access to the CID. I HAVE used this method on ATX cars, mainly because of the ease of the removall/install. If you do use this method on an ATX car, you WILL need a swivel regaurdless, and the front bolt will be slightly harder to get to (due to the location of the engine).
I figured installation would be a given.
I've posted it a few times, but never really did a "full" write-up (per-se) on it. I relize this is no in-depth write-up, but OTOH, changing the CID isn't THAT hard, ya know.... But I do see your point about the newby looking for more info. But then again, if he/she can't figure out the difference between a C.I.D sensor , and a Cam Seal , then IMO, they shouldn't be near the car. 
