bypass bias plugs

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SHODWN

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UG I just wrote this huge post and it booted me off.

in short.. Install the plugs!
 

SinisterSHO

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CerberuS said:
heh i wanted to do it , but then one day i bought a whole kit on ebay , cross drilled , i thought it would help for the warpage.

SS lines is going in too , and at least its the 94 brakes , less anemic a bit. But like you said , if i find it dangerous i will go with a big brake setup. :thumb:
Have fun with your cross drilled rotors cracking.
 

Mr95Gl

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CerberuS said:
heh i wanted to do it , but then one day i bought a whole kit on ebay , cross drilled , i thought it would help for the warpage.

SS lines is going in too , and at least its the 94 brakes , less anemic a bit. But like you said , if i find it dangerous i will go with a big brake setup. :thumb:

Or you can get a set of Mustang GT calipers, along with its banjo bolts.
 

godspunk32

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I'm running the plugs on my Sable with the 96' upgrade in the front and stock rear discs. I have to say that I haven't had any problems, although it hasn't been driven in the snow yet. That could get a little hairy, but I haven't noticed any additional ABS events, even when I'm pushing my car at the limit on the track.

Cerebru...watch those rotors. The cheap eBay rotors have a tendency to crack, as SinisterSHO said. ****, sak Dave Kegel about rotors cracking on the track...and those were Wilwoods. Additionally, drilled rotors will not stop your rotors from "warping." Rotors do not warp usually...that happens only in very uncommon circumstances. What you're referring to is the uneven distribution of pad material on the rotor, thus causing high spots. To remove them, you can re-bed the pads, per Baer brakes' instructions. This will remove all the material...essentially the same thing as having the rotors turned.

With that said, I'm very apprehensive about the eventual sale of my car, if it ever happens. Because of the bias plugs, I don't trust anyone to drive the car unless they've got a good knowledge of proper braking techniques. I'd hate to be liable for someone's death because of their inability to brake properly.

JR
 

SHO Dude

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CerberuS said:
heh i wanted to do it , but then one day i bought a whole kit on ebay , cross drilled , i thought it would help for the warpage.


Jesus..!.! Another one with cross drilled rotors. Dude, you gottem' on you Civic too?

These kids **** me. OK, lets find out a way to totally **** the mass and swept area. I know, we'll take a drill press and punch a crap-load of holes in the rotor surface.

A brake is defined by 4 major factors.

Swept Area per Ton - This is the amount of surface area of the rotors that is actually touched by the pads divided into the weight of the vehicle.

Torque Arm - This is the distance from the center of the axle to the center of the pad. The longer the torque arm is, the more negative torque the brake will develop given the same force on the pads.

Mass - The rotors sole purpose in life is to turn kinetic energy into heat energy. It has to get hot and then dissipate that heat. The drill chips that end up on the floor used to be in the rotor. That means that the rotor has to get that much hotter to do EXACTLY the same job.

Friction Compound - This is what the pads are made out of and how the bite the rotor.

There are a lot more factors in the hydraulics with piston size and hydraulic leverage, but I'll defer to Todd, who is the expert here.
 
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CerberuS

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godspunk32 said:
I'm running the plugs on my Sable with the 96' upgrade in the front and stock rear discs. I have to say that I haven't had any problems, although it hasn't been driven in the snow yet. That could get a little hairy, but I haven't noticed any additional ABS events, even when I'm pushing my car at the limit on the track.

Cerebru...watch those rotors. The cheap eBay rotors have a tendency to crack, as SinisterSHO said. ****, sak Dave Kegel about rotors cracking on the track...and those were Wilwoods. Additionally, drilled rotors will not stop your rotors from "warping." Rotors do not warp usually...that happens only in very uncommon circumstances. What you're referring to is the uneven distribution of pad material on the rotor, thus causing high spots. To remove them, you can re-bed the pads, per Baer brakes' instructions. This will remove all the material...essentially the same thing as having the rotors turned.

With that said, I'm very apprehensive about the eventual sale of my car, if it ever happens. Because of the bias plugs, I don't trust anyone to drive the car unless they've got a good knowledge of proper braking techniques. I'd hate to be liable for someone's death because of their inability to brake properly.

JR

Thanks for the input , i actually paid like 125$ for front + rear + ALL pads. If it goes for a year , well thats that.

If i see cracks comming up i'll go with some hot stuff (biggest kit that fits under slicers.)
 

godspunk32

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No problem. Just realize that when it comes to brakes, the cheapest is not the best, and in many cases, is not even adequate. It's just my opinion, but I'd be swapping ALL that stuff out of there...well, I'd never have installed them in the first place, but you get my meaning.

JR
 

Mike Kopstain

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Jesus..!.! Another one with cross drilled rotors. Dude, you gottem' on you Civic too?

These kids **** me. OK, lets find out a way to totally **** the mass and swept area. I know, we'll take a drill press and punch a crap-load of holes in the rotor surface.
Do you always intentionally insult your target market or is this just a new ad campaign?
 

Brian Mullins

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Then why did Ford completely eliminate the proportioning valve from 2000+ Taurus and Sables? :shrug: I guess they felt it wasn't that important either.

There are enough people running bias plugs or bypassed/eliminated proportioning valves on the street for a long enough time now that it's pretty much been proven that they can be used perfectly safely in ABS cars.

On top of that, probably better than 90% of the stock proportioning valves on all Tauruses and Sables on the road today are inoperative anyway, so again it's not nearly as critical a component.
I just had my proportional valve deleted on my 94 atx & new nickel/copper brake lines put on(already had stainless steel hose kits on front & back). My sho stop s amazingly now. The braking system is performing incredible, night & day difference from before. Im no mechanic, so take this with a grain of salt. From alot of research it seems that cars built with abs don’t need a rear proportional valve, generally speaking, because the abs does the job. But cars without abs definitely need it to prevent rear brakes from locking up. Anyways, I just drove my sho thru the mountains of Virginia & used the brakes aggressively many times & Im beyond happy with the performance.
 

Irish Pride

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I just had my proportional valve deleted on my 94 atx & new nickel/copper brake lines put on(already had stainless steel hose kits on front & back). My sho stop s amazingly now. The braking system is performing incredible, night & day difference from before. Im no mechanic, so take this with a grain of salt. From alot of research it seems that cars built with abs don’t need a rear proportional valve, generally speaking, because the abs does the job. But cars without abs definitely need it to prevent rear brakes from locking up. Anyways, I just drove my sho thru the mountains of Virginia & used the brakes aggressively many times & Im beyond happy with the performance.
I have been using Bias Plugs in my 89 for years and years. 89 didn't come with ABS. No issues what so ever.

Also, please don't comment in a post that hasn't been commented in for 17 years. Start a new thread.

-Chad
 
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