Building a proper restomod project.

PastaPirate13

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Hello again everyone! I wasn't exactly sure where to post this but I gave it some thought and decided that my pain and suffering could be a guide for others in the future looking to restore one of these on a budget. If you've read my previous occasional posts, you'll be familiar with this silver frost disaster. If not, well...it's a long story. The short version is that I bought this about a year ago and didn't realize just what I was getting into. What looked like just a high mileage car that needed some maintenance quickly turned into a full on project. It seemed like the more I dug into it, the worse it got, culminating in the discovery of at least one spun bearing, but I'll be damned if I'm giving up on it now. It won't make a good daily anymore, but it'll make a great weekend cruise/show car.

That being said, it's going to be a restomod project that will done on a budget in a driveway with mostly hand tools and basic air/power tools. This may have been done a million times in these forums, maybe not, but it's happening again here.

Not to get ahead of myself though, first things first. Gotta get this engine out. I've got a factory service manual which is obviously gonna tell me to take it out with the subframe, but I'm gonna have to pull it out through the top given the circumstances. I'm planning on just following that and improvising where needed, and I've already removed some stuff when I was prepping to do the front 60k. So, here goes!
IMG 20220717 162017246 HDRIMG 20220717 161939864 HDRIMG 20220717 161955461
 

bpd1151

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Glad to see that you're remaining properly hydrated!

Smart move.

Looking forward to viewing subsequent posts on how your project unfolds.135f69394c20f3df1bd8f9a3b8ac12e3

Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk
 

rubydist

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Having done the engine pull both out of the top and bottom on driveways before (more than once each...) I will tell you that lifting the car up on tall jackstands and dropping the subframe out the bottom is a lot easier than pulling it out the top!
 

PastaPirate13

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Hello everyone! It's been a long time but finally after months of procrastinating, running out of money and battling depression I've finally gotten this engine out and ready to tear down. Now I just need to find bolts to attach it to the engine stand and I'll really start digging into it. As stated previously it's gonna be a bit of a restomod and I'm going in with no engine rebuilding experience so this is going to be quite a challenge but also a great learning experience. Now onto digging into these forums to find all the engine rebuilding info I can.

Oh, and a big thanks to everyone on this forum and the SHO community. When I got this car I knew next to nothing about them, but over the last year and a half I've learned more about them than I ever thought I would thanks to everyone here and the social media groups. I look forward to learning much more and someday hopefully making it to a SHO convention. Shame I missed last year being so close but oh well..IMG 20220930 175044775 HDRIMG 20220930 175050272 HDRIMG 20220930 175917076 HDRIMG 20220930 181517524 HDRIMG 20221003 124515114
 

luigisho

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I'm guessing from engine stand to block. I used to have that info but it's been a really long time. I think they are the same (similar) to subframe bolts I think thread is same. May need some nuts or something as a spacer to to snug it together.

Offroad sho has a good measurement in this thread.
 

PastaPirate13

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I'm guessing from engine stand to block. I used to have that info but it's been a really long time. I think they are the same (similar) to subframe bolts I think thread is same. May need some nuts or something as a spacer to to snug it together.

Offroad sho has a good measurement in this thread.
Yeah I worked out that I'll need four M12 x 1.75 bolts at least 3.5 inches in length. Lowe's had no grade 8 metric bolts and O'Reilly's had the right diameter and thread pitch but way too short.
 

luigisho

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Last time I used one- looong ago- I think I found some at a big box store that were longer than I liked and had to shim/spacer them to get it right. You should be able to get close and make it work. If Lowes doesn't have them try Home Dpt if there is one. If not the interwebs can help. Maybe even an ACE or something similar.

Also any of those places you already looked may be able to order what you need. Not everything is stocked on the shelf
 

FastCAD

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Who said the sho doesn't make a good daily driver? It's a good comfortable, well equipped cruiser with good gas mileage to boot (5sp.)
At 250k miles and regular maintenance I still drive it regularly and the heads have never been off.
I have the advantage of being in sofla and the addition of a quaife ltd. slip has done away with the hydroplaning.
best to ya.
 

PastaPirate13

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Who said the sho doesn't make a good daily driver? It's a good comfortable, well equipped cruiser with good gas mileage to boot (5sp.)
At 250k miles and regular maintenance I still drive it regularly and the heads have never been off.
I have the advantage of being in sofla and the addition of a quaife ltd. slip has done away with the hydroplaning.
best to ya.
I was gonna use it as my daily, bought a bunch of maintenance parts and did the valve lash adjustment. Then I got down to changing the rod bearings and found this:IMG 20220604 175406529IMG 20220604 175451467
 

FastCAD

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Yeah poor maint. in the past.
at each 100K I replaced the end caps that I had been saving for the right occasion and it was just in time.
Maint. is the key. 60K & 100K.
I had squirreled away maint. parts (when I found them) and 28yrs later it has paid off. The 'ole man' taught me "if you can't get what you want, then work with what you got".
From your post and pictures it seems to me you know what you want and I truly wish you the best. I know the guys on this forum can get you over any hurdle pertaining to the sho.
joe
p.s. I still want an Aston. lol
 

FastCAD

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I was gonna use it as my daily, bought a bunch of maintenance parts and did the valve lash adjustment. Then I got down to changing the rod bearings and found this:View attachment 85321View attachment 85322
Have u considered asking for a good 3.2 replacement. It may save a lot of future problems and time & $$ & u get a ride well worth ur effort?
Is that a sho+ and the paint if original seems pretty nice. Can't tell if there are rust problems or pictures of the interior but a sho is definitely worth keeping.
The older sho's have already bottomed out on value about 3 yrs. ago and are only going up now so that is something to be considered and there is evidence of parts and tech support going forward and there is a healthy demand for the older sho's.
 

PastaPirate13

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Have u considered asking for a good 3.2 replacement. It may save a lot of future problems and time & $$ & u get a ride well worth ur effort?
Is that a sho+ and the paint if original seems pretty nice. Can't tell if there are rust problems or pictures of the interior but a sho is definitely worth keeping.
The older sho's have already bottomed out on value about 3 yrs. ago and are only going up now so that is something to be considered and there is evidence of parts and tech support going forward and there is a healthy demand for the older sho's.
I have, but it seems pretty sparse out here in the east TN area as far as SHO stuff is concerned. As far as I can tell it isn't a plus, the paint and interior are pretty rough though the rust appears very limited despite being a Pennsylvania car several years back. The paint and interior are pretty rough but aside from the radiator supports and a spot on the left rear, it's limited to a few places of what looks like mostly just surface rust. It'll certainly need a new paintjob and there's some light dings and scratches here and there but for the most part it's a solid car. I did drive it for a couple months before I had to park it and it drove well enough for the amount of miles on it aside from the VERY worn out suspension.
 

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FastCAD

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I have, but it seems pretty sparse out here in the east TN area as far as SHO stuff is concerned. As far as I can tell it isn't a plus, the paint and interior are pretty rough though the rust appears very limited despite being a Pennsylvania car several years back. The paint and interior are pretty rough but aside from the radiator supports and a spot on the left rear, it's limited to a few places of what looks like mostly just surface rust. It'll certainly need a new paintjob and there's some light dings and scratches here and there but for the most part it's a solid car. I did drive it for a couple months before I had to park it and it drove well enough for the amount of miles on it aside from the VERY worn out suspension.
I've been to TN. quite a few times Centerville sw of Nashville and from what I remember they use salt on the roads too. lol
Ur right the rust doesn't seem that bad. Being you have the engine out it would be a good time to soda blast the underside. There are some really good rust arrest products that you can apply yourself and give a good base to start with. The steering and suspension parts are available but if you go that route it would be wise to use quality products for the sho like moog or xrf chassis in mich. 810-388-1410 they use moog part numbers and quality (reasonable).
The interior is a problem being it is sho specific but it is possible to seek out a wreck with a good interior and it is possible to find a wreck with a good engine.
Go outside the club and search the ads and wrecking yards u just might find what you need.
p.s. the sho forum crowd might read your posts and give u some leads also.
best to ya.
 

PastaPirate13

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I've been to TN. quite a few times Centerville sw of Nashville and from what I remember they use salt on the roads too. lol
Ur right the rust doesn't seem that bad. Being you have the engine out it would be a good time to soda blast the underside. There are some really good rust arrest products that you can apply yourself and give a good base to start with. The steering and suspension parts are available but if you go that route it would be wise to use quality products for the sho like moog or xrf chassis in mich. 810-388-1410 they use moog part numbers and quality (reasonable).
The interior is a problem being it is sho specific but it is possible to seek out a wreck with a good interior and it is possible to find a wreck with a good engine.
Go outside the club and search the ads and wrecking yards u just might find what you need.
p.s. the sho forum crowd might read your posts and give u some leads also.
best to ya.
I've got most of the suspension parts besides the springs and struts. I got 1st gen sway bars, 3rd gen rear subframe bushings and poly bushings throughout besides the LCA bushings which were new upon replacement of the LCAs. I also got new end links with poly bushings so once I figure out the springs/struts it should ride better than new once everything is back together.
 

PastaPirate13

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Alright so I've been doing some thinking and I've come to the conclusion that the fastest way to get this SHO on the road (haha) as quickly as possible is to source a replacement engine. I'm getting tired of seeing this on jack stands and I'm really wanting to have it ready for next spring so I figure if I can find a relatively low mileage engine to drop in while I rebuild the one that came out and get the springs/struts issue worked out I can make that goal. That said if anyone knows of a 3.0 or 3.2 for sale I'd be very interested.

As far as the suspension goes I'd like to drop it maybe an inch or so if anyone has or could point me in the direction of any information on springs and struts that would be greatly appreciated.
 
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