Boosted guys, little help?

[shobe]

Wow, thanks again for all that info. I was definitely planning on a FMIC and after reading up on water injection, I just couldn't not use it(double negative). Its only 200 dollars or so for a two stage kit, and even cheaper if you create one yourself. I've seen stock SRT-4's with the only mod being water injection and higher boost, running low 12's :O

I do also agree with the intake being an important part of breathing for F/I engines. I believe this is why some of the drag only cars go from regular intakes, to sheet-metal intakes. It isn't on the top of my list to do this, but when the extra cash comes for that, I will do so.

I'll talk to those people about the transmission too and have that built up while the motor is being put together. I'm guessing you boosted guys used stock rods and stock(new)bearings? I suppose with out knock, you really don't have to worry about that, and thats why a FMIC and a bit of water injection should reduce that.

Tim, also, what exhaust system did you run? A single 3" all the way back or what?

I was thinking of ARP bolts, but it doesn't seem like sho motors, even under boost, have problems blowing head gaskets, or even spinning bearings unless they arn't running right at all. I'm worried about spinning bearings too, did any of you use better bearings? If so, what kind?

With all this help, I believe the motor should be ready to go in spring, easily

 

[Toolman]

I have had no problems with rod bearings, but I will probably replace them soon just for peace of mind (they ahve about 50k on them). I have a 2.5in DP and 3in single exhaust.

 

[Mike Kopstain]

Wow, thanks again for all that info. I was definitely planning on a FMIC and after reading up on water injection, I just couldn't not use it(double negative). Its only 200 dollars or so for a two stage kit, and even cheaper if you create one yourself. I've seen stock SRT-4's with the only mod being water injection and higher boost, running low 12's :O

With my water injection kit I can disable my intercooler, run maximum timing (23 degrees) and use less fuel, all with 0.0 degrees of knock. Water injection is great if done right.

 

[2L8V8_4sho]

I remember reading on here somewhere that one of the FI guys shimmed 3rd tighter and that has eliminated it from being broken because the gears don't turn on the tips.....or something like that. Is that just a temporary fix or what? Anyone know what I'm talking about? :laugh_ti:

 

[Mike Kopstain]

I remember reading on here somewhere that one of the FI guys shimmed 3rd tighter and that has eliminated it from being broken because the gears don't turn on the tips.....or something like that. Is that just a temporary fix or what? Anyone know what I'm talking about? :laugh_ti:

Some have attempted shimming; most have failed. The problem isn't so much the gear as it is the input shaft which bows under heavy torque and puts extra stress on the gear. Being in the center of the shaft, 3rd moves the most and is also the narrowest gear.

Recipe for disaster if you will.

 

[ghostrider]

Isn't Pat, the guy who bought the race prepped 89 running 18psi, running a shimmed tranny? Didn't he say somewhere that he has put many miles on it with no problems? I could be smoking that wacky stuff, I might be worng. I could of sworn that he was kosher with his tranny though.

 

[Lupo]

Isn't Pat, the guy who bought the race prepped 89 running 18psi, running a shimmed tranny? Didn't he say somewhere that he has put many miles on it with no problems? I could be smoking that wacky stuff, I might be worng. I could of sworn that he was kosher with his tranny though.

Shimming is not going to help when you twist off your input shaft like the previous owner of that car did.

 

[Toolman]

Shimming may help up to a point, but Pat and tyhe SC'd guys are running a good deal less tq than the turbo. Tq is what kills input shafts.

 

[DemonNeno]

Shimming may help up to a point, but Pat and tyhe SC'd guys are running a good deal less tq than the turbo. Tq is what kills input shafts.

Amen to that... It's like.. having your daughter twist your arm.. and then having some 340lbs steroid freak givin it a good yankin.. Needless to say, he broke my.. err, that persons arm! :wave:

 

[somedude_001]

just for my satisfaction what are the pistons/rods/crank good to? on a N/A aplication is it safe to say that with proper tunning it would be very hard or even impossible to break them?

 

[Toolman]

You can break anything, but yes, I think it is safe to say that with proper tuning and car, the stock parts are virtually indestructible in a N/A setup, at least as far as power induced failure goes. Heck, a number of FI sho's are stock bottom ends with over 500 hp at the crank.

 

[slipperysho]

If you are interested in some good info. on F/I motors,Try TurboBuick.com /Forum . I have an 87Grand National also (my car ), Wife's car is the SHO, good sections on general and OPINIONS just as this site.

 

[SonicRiot]

Lupo... your MAF is so far from the TB...!?!

Doesn't that make for horrible accelorator response and poor measurement of air? Wouldn't it work better wedged b/w the intercooler and the TB?

Sorry to hi-jack, but that just got me thinking... has anyone flipped the Intake so the TB is on the right (passenger) side to allow for more direct FI piping? Is this pointless? A solenoid operated TB is not a hard install, but might require some creativity...

 

[silversho89]

you'd also have to extend the wires for the DIS module, and shorten some, along with having to probably redo the vaccuum lines but that can never hurt.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Ive thought about it. Spacers on the intake could get it high enough for the t-body to clear the timing cover, and wiring and vac-lines are no sweat.

Hardest item to work out would probably be the throttle cable.

 

[SonicRiot]

The stock throttle cable is already super long (and unavailible from Ford! ), so I would go with an E-Gas setup (Bosch... kinda unreliable) or a cabless solenoid operated system. Like I said though... without the computer knowing it's there, this might take a home-fabbed creative setup. But definately doable.

 

[SuperchargedSHOguy]

Ive thought about it. Spacers on the intake could get it high enough for the t-body to clear the timing cover, and wiring and vac-lines are no sweat.

Hardest item to work out would probably be the throttle cable.

But then the biggest question arises: Would you be able to close the hood with spacers on the intake?

 

[SonicRiot]

Who needs a hood on a hot rod?

J/K. That is a good question... Most likely not. But is it possible to just adapt the intake and not use spacers?

 

[SuperchargedSHOguy]

Who needs a hood on a hot rod?

J/K. That is a good question... Most likely not. But is it possible to just adapt the intake and not use spacers?

No. You would definitly need spacers to clear the timing belt cover.

 

[SonicRiot]

oh yeah.


What about a spacer b/w the TB and the intake to push it out past the timing cover? Getting too ridiculous? Too far from the intake?

Sorry to thread-jack.