Bluezones build

Bluezone

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Basically you take an Automotive two way hand pump. Slowly pressurize the wastegates and observe the slightest movement of the armatures. When they move that's the pressure they are opening at. If they are out, pressurize to 4-5 PSI(more psi if not moving) , loosen the lock nut, take off the circlip, remove the Armature from the wastegate arm, depressurize the control and bring back up to 3 PSI, adjust the turnbuckle in or out as necessary 2 just fit over the arm pin with the wastegate fully closed, reinstall the Armature, learn new swear words and reinstall circlip and pat yourself self on the back.

Here's a YouTube video showing the procedure.



 
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Bluezone

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I made up and tested an intake manifold cooler tonight. Results look good. Should work well with the phenolic spacer. Looks kinda ghetto but served purpose for the test. Screenshot 20220506 204831 Photos
I'm kind of wondering how this would work if I applied it to the outlet tank side of the gear Head intercooler?
 

Bluezone

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Okay oh, I had my track date today. It didn't go so well. I did improve my personal best slightly. 12.938 @ 106.55.
I kept getting lined up with people whom like to squeal their tires off the line. Made it very hard to tell what was going on with my car.
My best run was my first run when I had taking it easy. I had huge problems with heat soak. Obviously I need to practice a softer launch at about 1800 RPM. This plus delaying my throttle input for about half a second.
Weird part about all this was my best run was on the Continental extreme contacts with too much air. The Nitto nt01's do not like being aired down. Wheel Spin City through 2nd gear. LOL.
I bumped into a new SHO owner and ran against him. He did pretty good for his first time out. I asked him to check out the Forum.
Saw a S10 that need a head light. The owner information there was a gas station that had e 85. Unfortunately they just stopped selling it and had removed the tank. On the other hand I found a VP gas station. Hopefully they sell race fuel. I'm going to have to check that out.20220508 2020012Screenshot 20220508 203502 PhotosScreenshot 20220508 203707 PhotosScreenshot 20220508 203650 PhotosScreenshot 20220508 203803 PhotosScreenshot 20220508 203740 Photos
One other picture. I wonder what this could be?

Screenshot 20220508 203902 Photos

Oh one more thing. I got to track later than I intended. I missed all the excitement. From what I hear they hadn't prep the track properly. A rail dragster had gotten sideways and went off track. It landed on its side with the throttle still wide open. Glad I wasn't there with where I was parked.
 
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Bluezone

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Thanks. Well I got a few more tricks to try before the time I go out. It was lots of fun changing tires with the tip of my right thumb broken. Not a clue of how I did it. LOL
First run was warm Continentals straight off the highway. Second run was Continental at 30 PSI. Third Run was the nittos straight off the road course they had gone to 40 PSI. Fourth run was at 28 PSI. I got a little squirrely on that run had to let off. 5th run was at 35 PSI and hot lap from last run. the sixth run end of the day.
Looks like I got to play around with a pressure at 35 PSI plus or minus two PSI.
I rechecked the turbos before I went out and found out I still don't have them synced yet.
I need to sort out my cooling issues as well. I have an idea what's gone wrong, but I need to check it.

EDIT: wow I was half asleep when I wrote this. Please ignore. LOL
 
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HellCow

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Today I lowered the centre of gravity on my MKS by dropping the motor and transmission down 3/8 of an inch. I inserted spacers between the upper mount and the transmission and engine side lower mount. was shooting for half an inch but I would have had to replace several studs.
I simply stacked six 1/16 of an inch thick washers to make up 3/8 of an inch. Hopefully this will slightly reduced the weight transfer from the front to the rear. I think that's somewhere around 900 lb that I've lowered.
Do you mind showing pics exactly how you did it? Im playing around with an ATSV HPFP and I may have hood clearance issues with the feed line. If I can drop the engine a bit plus add some spacers on the hoods hinge, it might be ok.
 

Bluezone

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Best I can do is some pictures of where the spacers go. To start this job your hand should not look like this. :( Screenshot 20220517 083755 Photos
It's a thumbnail shot but not really.
Next you'll need a box of these.Screenshot 20220517 083839 Photos
You will have to remove the battery and the battery box to access the transmission side mount. Remove the under engine cover. Then support the transmission with a hydraulic jack. Be sure to put a piece of wood between transmission and the jack. Remove the nuts and bolt that retain the upper transmission mount to the transmission.Screenshot 20220517 082637 Chrome2
Lower the Jack slowly. Then, one at a time, place a stack of 6 (1/16" each) washers (3/8" total height) over each of the studs. This was the maximum amount I could use and still have all the threads engage on the stud nuts. The studs vary in length. You will have to pry the upper mount around to manage to get the washers over the studs one at a time.
For the single alignment Bolt, I would suggest using paper or cellophane tape to hold the stack together. Then insert the stack of washers in place for the alignment Bolt.Screenshot 20220517 082637 Chrome3Screenshot 20220517 082846 Chrome3
Raise the transmission back up with the jack. Then reinstall and Loosely tighten the nuts. Hopefully by doing this you will not have Disturbed the stack of washers for the alignment Bolt. You can try inserting the alignment Bolt to hold the stack of washers in place. Slowly tighten the alignment Bolt. Make sure you do not cross thread it. It's going into aluminum. You may have to pry on the transmission mount to get the bolt to align properly. Tighten the bolt and the nuts to the correct torque. I don't have that handy but I can look it up if you need it. This side is done.
Reinstall the battery box and Battery. Don't worry about connecting the battery cables up yet. Just a safety precaution.

Now for the pita side. Place the jack with the piece of wood between the Jack and the oil pan close to the front engine pulley. Raise the jack to very slightly lift the car. This removes the tension on the engine side mount.
Open your thesaurus of swear words to a random page and start reading aloud.
Using extensions an appropriate sockets remove the four nuts from the engine mount to flexmount studs.Screenshot 20220517 083208 Chrome2
Next remove the three bolts that hold the engine side Flex mount to the side rail. There are three of them.
Pick a new random page from the thesaurus and continue reading aloud.
Lower the jack as far as is practical while maintaining contact with the oil pan. Lift and pry the isolation Mount to insert a stack of six washers over each stud. You will not be able to remove the upper Mount because of associated hoses and wiring. It's a very tight squeeze , pry bars are good idea at this point . I would suggest removing the intercooler to throttle body charge pipe to improve access. Make note to self to grab a box of Band-Aids after completing this project.
Place the washers one at a time over each of the studs best you can manage. Total of 6 over each. It's a tight squeeze.
Align the flex Mount over the studs. Insert the 3 bolts holding the flex mount to the side rail. Hand thread the first few threads to avoid cross threading.
Do not ask how I know this. Guilty parties will remain anonymous.
Tighten the bolts to spec. Raise the jack to lift the engine so that the studs are fully exposed. Place the nuts over each stud and thread them down and tighten to spec.
Lower the jack and removed from under the car. Reattach the charge pipe and anything else removed. Replace the under car cover. Reattach battery cables being careful not too short anything out. Start bonfire and burn thesaurus.
Voila you're done.
After doing this and dropping my engine I had to clearance the under engine cover due to the aftermarket downpipes contacting the cover.
 

Bluezone

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Lookie what showed up today. Hopefully it will be going on soon when my thumb heals. But first a new steering rack has to go in the car.:(Screenshot 20220525 182958 Photos

I haven't decided yet whether or not it's being used as one piece or two. Still thinking about leaving the thermostat housing mounted as is with the divorced thermostat housing set up I have now.
 

ridered74

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Lookie what showed up today. Hopefully it will be going on soon when my thumb heals. But first a new steering rack has to go in the car.:(View attachment 84160

I haven't decided yet whether or not it's being used as one piece or two. Still thinking about leaving the thermostat housing mounted as is with the divorced thermostat housing set up I have now.

I had one of those for a whole one trip to the track. Made me a full tenth slower, came home and immediately ripped it back out.
 

Bluezone

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I had one of those for a whole one trip to the track. Made me a full tenth slower, came home and immediately ripped it back out.
You're not the first to mention that to me, so I am a little concerned. I'm hoping with the divorced thermostat housing it will show some improvement in temperatures. I have also planned to add play ice water cooling Loop to the intake manifold. If that works out well I will extend it to the exit side of the intercooler as well. Sort of hybrid Cooling with the intercooler.
I guess we'll see how this goes. Apparently some of the guys running Mitsubishi evos we're doing this as well. So my friend from the system integration company tells me. He used to run an EVO. He had the same opinion of the shop, that did my Dyno runs, as I have.
 

Bluezone

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I ended up installing the phenolic spacer in one piece. Turns out I'd have to modify a couple other things to make work with just the spaces under the manifold.
Temperatures were pretty good, but the Ambient Air Temperature was decent as well. 60 degrees Fahrenheit with a intake air temperature of 22 degrees over ambient at 55 miles an hour. In town it was roughly 30 degrees over ambient. After an hour's worth of driving, the intake was still cool to the touch. Very impressed. Unfortunately I need to fix my steering rack before I get to try any serious runs for testing.
I've been tracing potential problems on the high-speed can bus. But it's looking like after effects of the EPAS torque sensor and limp home mode.
 

Bluezone

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Okay I finished my troubleshooting on the steering rack. I was getting various OBD warning codes. Unfortunately they were a red herring of sorts.
My car is nearly 12 years old at this point and normal oxidation had caused slightly greater contact resistance on the high-speed bus. Now the steering rack motor was fighting a mechanical problem. So this was drawing down circuit voltage. The high-speed bus was being effected by a slight drop in voltage. Causing a lack of communication between the various control modules. I have since cleaned all of the connectors with contact cleaner. No more error codes.
Now the steering rack has several electronic controls on it. From what I've been able to find out It suffers from extreme heat stressors due to the exhaust system being so close. So figure on baked Electronics without additional airflow. That heat shield on it is there for a reason. There's a torque sensor at the steering shaft input. Also a potential fault.
Now I've worked a lot of different jobs over the years. One of these jobs was at a high tech machine shop. We made parts for Ferrari, Ford and GM. Parts for Garrett turbochargers and the various clones.
Replacement parts for nuclear reactors and military equipment. We had tanks and tracked transports sitting in the storage yard. LOL. We made parts for aircraft and helicopter main rotor shafts.
One of the more obscure things we did was owning the rights to and the ancient manufacturing equipment for the producing replacement steering boxes from the Saginaw line. One of the most popular was the Vega steering box. Essentially a full-sized steering box stuffed into a compact case. Very popular with drag racers and hot rodders.
The point of this long diatribe is that the steering boxes were a recirculating ball mechanism.
Now if the lubrication in this assembly becomes compromised with moisture, the unit will fail. Now the EPAS system uses a brushless variable speed electric motor to provide steering assistance. It drives a recirculating ball gearing system by a belt drve. The belt can be a failure point as well as the electric motor. In my case the failure point was a seal on the steering rack. It allowed water into the rack and contaminated the lubricant of the recirculating ball system. The motor couldn't overcome the Locking of the steering rack drive system. This caused high current draw.
So now I have to replace the steering rack because this part of the system failed and everything else is fine.
 
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Bluezone

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I had the replacement steering rack put in last week. It works pretty good. Haven't taken it to Ford yet to have it calibrated to the car, it's working that well.
It has a nice on Center feel.
I've been playing with boost pressure and observing the controller duty cycle. The boost control valve for some reason stopped during one test run. I got it working again but it provided some interesting information. Running just wastegate spring pressure resulted in a Max of 4 1/2 PSI. I would say the wastegate of one of the turbochargers is definitely opening too early. Still need to get under there and do a final adjustment.
Removing the ABS fuse from underneath the hood to disable the ABS traction control and advancetrac, still showed the same problems with Boost pressure through first gear. This pretty well indicates to me that the wastegates opening too quickly and not the Boost controller are the problem.
What was kind of cool though was it managed a 0 to 100 mph run in 14.5 seconds. Not too shabby. Especially considering it was showing a Max of 30 degrees of ignition advance. The phenolic spacer is showing a minimum temperature of around 8 to 9 degrees Fahrenheit over ambient minimum. Plus a highway temperature of 13 degrees over ambient at 70 mph.
 

Bluezone

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Here's the POF of sealing failure on my steering rack. Best guess the downpipe melted or degraded the accordion boot and let water in the rack. Might have to extend the heat shield for the road from the steering rack to protect it from the Heat.Screenshot 20220621 172729 Photos
 

Bluezone

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I got curious as to what my hood would look like with some Hood louvres added. So I mocked up some.Screenshot 20220623 184351 Photos2Screenshot 20220623 184325 Photos2Screenshot 20220623 184234 Photos2Screenshot 20220623 184257 PhotosScreenshot 20220623 184325 Photos2
 

Bluezone

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It's been worst kind of a s***** day today. I'm up late trying to keep my mind off things by keeping busy.
Anyhow, I realized that my air conditioner condenser was partially plugged and cleaned it out using a cleaning product made for the purpose. Seems to have dropped normal driving coolant and intercooler temperatures another 2-5 degrees. Strangely enough turning air conditioner on now has a noticeable effect on raising temperatures now. WOT now drops to around 10 degrees F higher than ambient.
 

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