Best I can do is some pictures of where the spacers go. To start this job your hand should not look like this.
It's a thumbnail shot but not really.
Next you'll need a box of these.
You will have to remove the battery and the battery box to access the transmission side mount. Remove the under engine cover. Then support the transmission with a hydraulic jack. Be sure to put a piece of wood between transmission and the jack. Remove the nuts and bolt that retain the upper transmission mount to the transmission.
Lower the Jack slowly. Then, one at a time, place a stack of 6 (1/16" each) washers (3/8" total height) over each of the studs. This was the maximum amount I could use and still have all the threads engage on the stud nuts. The studs vary in length. You will have to pry the upper mount around to manage to get the washers over the studs one at a time.
For the single alignment Bolt, I would suggest using paper or cellophane tape to hold the stack together. Then insert the stack of washers in place for the alignment Bolt.
Raise the transmission back up with the jack. Then reinstall and Loosely tighten the nuts. Hopefully by doing this you will not have Disturbed the stack of washers for the alignment Bolt. You can try inserting the alignment Bolt to hold the stack of washers in place. Slowly tighten the alignment Bolt. Make sure you do not cross thread it. It's going into aluminum. You may have to pry on the transmission mount to get the bolt to align properly. Tighten the bolt and the nuts to the correct torque. I don't have that handy but I can look it up if you need it. This side is done.
Reinstall the battery box and Battery. Don't worry about connecting the battery cables up yet. Just a safety precaution.
Now for the pita side. Place the jack with the piece of wood between the Jack and the oil pan close to the front engine pulley. Raise the jack to very slightly lift the car. This removes the tension on the engine side mount.
Open your thesaurus of swear words to a random page and start reading aloud.
Using extensions an appropriate sockets remove the four nuts from the engine mount to flexmount studs.
Next remove the three bolts that hold the engine side Flex mount to the side rail. There are three of them.
Pick a new random page from the thesaurus and continue reading aloud.
Lower the jack as far as is practical while maintaining contact with the oil pan. Lift and pry the isolation Mount to insert a stack of six washers over each stud. You will not be able to remove the upper Mount because of associated hoses and wiring. It's a very tight squeeze , pry bars are good idea at this point . I would suggest removing the intercooler to throttle body charge pipe to improve access. Make note to self to grab a box of Band-Aids after completing this project.
Place the washers one at a time over each of the studs best you can manage. Total of 6 over each. It's a tight squeeze.
Align the flex Mount over the studs. Insert the 3 bolts holding the flex mount to the side rail. Hand thread the first few threads to avoid cross threading.
Do not ask how I know this. Guilty parties will remain anonymous.
Tighten the bolts to spec. Raise the jack to lift the engine so that the studs are fully exposed. Place the nuts over each stud and thread them down and tighten to spec.
Lower the jack and removed from under the car. Reattach the charge pipe and anything else removed. Replace the under car cover. Reattach battery cables being careful not too short anything out. Start bonfire and burn thesaurus.
Voila you're done.
After doing this and dropping my engine I had to clearance the under engine cover due to the aftermarket downpipes contacting the cover.
