belt tensioner 2

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

95azSHO

New Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2006
Messages
220
Reaction score
0
Location
phx,az
Don't know for sure but I've run into a lot of SHO specific parts that I had to replace. My tesioner pulley was bad and I replaced it instead of the whole tensioner cost $15.
 

SHOtimer

#2910
Joined
Sep 8, 2002
Messages
4,081
Reaction score
396
Location
Santa Clarita, Ca
URLACHER54 said:
can you use any other type of serpentine belt tensioner from any other ford or just the one for this car. 94 sho atx 3.2

Is the tensioner bad or just the pulley?

In the WTB section their are plenty of parts vendor's that I'm sure would have an abundance of these.

Doug
 

URLACHER54

SHO Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2006
Messages
166
Reaction score
4
Location
Gambrills, Maryland
oh yea its bad, i dropped a bolt couldnt find it and when i started the car i found it. it fell behind the tensioner and got stuck some how and shattered the tensioner.
 

etc1006

New Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2004
Messages
713
Reaction score
2
Location
Baltimore, Md.
There was an ATX at Crazy Rays on RT1 in Jessup a couple of weeks ago when I went for my swaybar link...
 

djcannon

New Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2006
Messages
134
Reaction score
0
Location
Ohio
If a junkyard will sell you just the tensioner, make sure you remove it yourself. When you do, you have to be very careful.

The tensioner bolts to a bracket, which in turn bolts to the engine block. On the backside of the tensioner (the side that mates to the bracket) is a "******" that also inserts into a hole in the bracket.

Ford, in it's infinite wisdom, made the tensioner aluminum, and the bracket cast iron/steel. Put these 2 together, and you get corrosion.

So once you take off the big bolt that holds on the tensioner, the tensioner might remain in place, even after the bolt is removed. That's because the ****** is stuck in there. Many people don't realize it and will tap the tensioner with something in order to free it. But all that does is break the dowel pin/******.

So when removing it, i'd spray wd-40 down the back first (if you can reach it), And when you finally go to remove it, don't wiggle it, but try instead to pull it straight out.

I'd be careful to ask anybody selling one if the ****** is still intact before purchasing it. It's easy to take it off the car, not realizing you broke off the dowel pin.
 

etc1006

New Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2004
Messages
713
Reaction score
2
Location
Baltimore, Md.
Yep, mine doesn't have the full ****** left on it... More of a nub now. I found it like this when I did the water pump. Still enough left to index the tensioner. When I get more $ and time ,now that I am starting a new job this week, I'm prolly gonna re-do it. I'm scratching my head on how to get the piece out of the hole....
 

djcannon

New Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2006
Messages
134
Reaction score
0
Location
Ohio
etc1006 said:
I'm scratching my head on how to get the piece out of the hole....

That piece that is left in the hole is aluminum, since it came from the tensioner. It can be easily drilled out. Aluminum is soft.
 

URLACHER54

SHO Member
Joined
Aug 18, 2006
Messages
166
Reaction score
4
Location
Gambrills, Maryland
etc1006 said:
There was an ATX at Crazy Rays on RT1 in Jessup a couple of weeks ago when I went for my swaybar link...


went to crazy rays in jessup yesterday and they only had 2 mtx shos there a blue and red
 

etc1006

New Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2004
Messages
713
Reaction score
2
Location
Baltimore, Md.
Sorry, I couldn't remember if they were both MTX or not... A bad day at the jy is always better than a good day at work though! Right? I'd love to score the exhaust off the red one... They have another yard off 695 around exit 2 or 3 I think. On Ft. Smallwood road maybe, I'll have to look at the paper. Then another yard in Mt Airy about halfway to Frederick from Balto...
 
Last edited:

etc1006

New Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2004
Messages
713
Reaction score
2
Location
Baltimore, Md.
djcannon said:
That piece that is left in the hole is aluminum, since it came from the tensioner. It can be easily drilled out. Aluminum is soft.
Getting a drill in there might be a bear though. A dremel with a good bit would prolly do it though. I'll be keeping my eyes out for a tensioner. Til then mine is torqued down real good.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
107,084
Messages
1,181,282
Members
16,152
Latest member
Satchmoz

Members online

Back
Top