backfires, wont restart, runs rough

[tjburns]

So im gonna try the paper clip code reading trick later today as i cant drive it to autozone for a free reading since it wont restart when warm, but we are takin a poll on what to fix or replace next


The car runs really bad under 3 or 4k rpms, bogs if you floor it, almost to the point of stalling....runs rough, and after the first start of the day, just turns over and backfires, pops and whines while trying to start it.

ive replaced the valve cover gaskets, plug well seals, intake manifold gasket, cleaned the intake, replaced the egr valve, replaced the fuel filter, replaced two burned out starters, cleaned the MAFS, replaced plugs, wires, battery....

but what next....so far ive heard timing, along with the CPS, cats, O2 sensors...new MAFS....but what do all ya'll think? Any advice would be appreciated, and ill post up when i get codes. thanks for your time

 

[SHOtime2511]

get you codes scaned first before you do anything

 

[SeanMc]

After replacing my plugs and 1 wire, all this went away for me.

 

[dpsutphin]

It could be whatever solvent you used to clean the Mass Air Flow Sensor. I don't recall exactly what you are supposed to use, but a search here should turn up the possible culprit. Some cleaning fluids will mess up the sensor and cause the symptoms you are describing.

 

[tjburns]

KOEO= 212 172 214 332

KOER=332 538 536 521 632


Im in the process of interpreting. would bad timing throw a code?

 

[tjburns]

KOEO

172= HEGO sensor indicates system lean

212= IDM circuit failure

214= CID circuit failure

332= EGR valve not detected opening

KOER

332= EGR valve

538=operator error (dynamic response/cylinder balance tests)

336= BOO circuit failure

521= PSPS circuit did not change states

632=????

 

[tjburns]

so obviously the egr valve needs to be replaced....again....but im new to these cars, and at a basic loss for what can and or will fix the remainder of these codes....so im off to search the web. any help would be greatly, greatly appreciated

 

[F-22 Raptor SHO]

Check the wiring....if it backfires, it is because you are getting an out of time spark.

If you replaced alot of this stuff, it is easy to misinstall the wires.

 

[tjburns]

I should clarify that randomly, and for the first time since i purchased the car,
it has been starting and not backfiring regularly...not backfiring at all, and restarting perfectly, but it still threw all these codes....and it still runs real rough

 

[tjburns]

and if someone could interpret the acronyms for me, or point me in the right direction, thatd be awesome

 

[tjburns]

and the tach works intermittently....cid failure i beleive ive read

 

[93superSHO]

Ignore 538,336,521,632

212-IDM circut failure(Ignition Diagnostic Monitor)

214-CID circuit failure( Cylinder Identification)

212 and 214 are related and you have a bad cam sensor. If you want to try one out before buying one let me know I can run one over to you. Mine came off running engines.

 

[lonewolf]

and the tach works intermittently....cid failure i beleive ive read

I see a complaint very similair to mine. My car was running great the other day and then out of no where it began to run rough. I noticed that the check engine light came on and the tach was not working. I let the car sit while looking for possible causes and talked to a few friends. Later the next day I started it up and it ran just a smooth as ever. Today I started it again. (I drive a service van most days) At first it acted like the timing was off and spit and growled then started, after acting like it was getting no fire. The check engine light was on and again the tach was not working. the other day when all was fine everything worked. Today NOT! My room mate helped me by reading the codes that were all according to him 2 digits I know this must be wrong. Mine is a '95 MTX 3.0 which should use three digits correct? I have been told it could be the cam positioning sensor. I will try to re collect the codes tomorrow. Is the cam positioning sensor a common failure? I could get one and replace it anyway if it a suspected intermittent failure. Codes as read by room mate were 14 54 22, There ia a number missing I believe... any suggestions?

 

[rangerj]

A couple of thoughts: Was the car at normal operating temperature when the Key on-Engine running was done. If it was NOT then the EGR may not be activated. The power steering pressure switch test requires that the steering wheel be moved when this part of the test cycle is in process. If not, you get the code. The same is true for the brake on-brake off (BOO) test, that is the brake pedel has to pressed. Do a search and read about how to perform the test cycles in the KOER test. Clear the codes before conducting either test, KOEO or KOER.

A very high percentage of the time a backfire is a timing issue. Do a search for "testing the DIS" and those test should help you identify an ignition problem if it is electronic.

Lastly, keep in mind that a fault code WILL NOT tell you if a component is bad. It tells you that the computer (Electronic control unit (ECU) is not getting the signal it is programmed to expect in a specific set of conditions. the problem could be a failed component or a poor connection or a broken or grounded connection or too much resistance (corrosion) in the wire, etc. The codes are a diagnostic tool, not the answer to end all problems.