ATX Trans service and Flush

[boat]

Hey all! I was wondering what is the recommendations on changing the ATX fluid and filter? Or I guess I should say the flushing interval? The previous owner told me that a new ATX was put in my 95 at 80k miles, I now have 143k on the car. Just curious, Eric Vervalin and I were talking about this on Saturday. He thought my fluid looked fine but it had a burnt smell to it.
Thanks

 

[SHOVNST]

The burnt smell is not good, and because of that I wouldn't say that the fluid is 'fine'. On a SHO ATX trans I would be changing the fluid at least every 20k, and that's with an added HD trans cooler.....

For your situation change the fluid by just dropping the pan and installing a new filter. I DO NOT recommend having someone hook it up to a machine and power flushing it. I have seen some not so pleasant outcomes from using that method on ATX's of any kind (SHO's included!) with your kind of mileage.....





:woohoo::woohoo::woohoo:

 

[boat]

He didn't say the fluid was "fine". The color of it was still red in color, he said the color of it was fine, and to look into getting some service done to it.

Isn't there like 16 quarts of fluid in the ATX? How much of that stays in the transmission? How much do I need to buy? Or should I just have Bizzy take a look at my transmission?

 

[Silvapain]

Drop the pan and replace the filter. Disconenct the Auxillary cooler line back to the tranny, then attach a short piece of 3/8" hose to the cooler line. The line connected to the auxillary cooler will go to a drain pan and the line back to the tranny goes into the jug of new ATX fluid. Turn the car on and let the tranny's pump push out the old fluid and suck the new fluid in.

 

[stangeater]

FLUSHING the tranny is a BAD thing! I had to learn that the hard way on my dads Corvette. Just drop the filter, drain and fill!

 

[SHOtimer]

What works best for me is dropping the pan, cleaning the pan and magnet and putting in a new filter.

What I also did was add a drain plug to the side of the ATX pan. So, I would drain and refill the pan every 15k and drop the pan every 30k. Being able to drain the pan also made dropping it much less messy.

Also, I also used Mobil 1 full synthetic ATX fluid. Your ATX will love it. It handles the heat much better.

Doug

 

[Eric VerValin]

I told ya ATX's were kinda funny.. lol I kinda came up with the same solution with our Malibu. Just changed the filter, and pan gasket. But my question is.. when dropping the pan, all the fluid wouldn't come out would it? Wouldn't some still be in the valve body?

I like the idea Silvapain had... just curious how much fluid one would need to do such a thing? I would assume just let it keep pumping until it comes out clean? And how do you get it to pump? Just turn it on and let it idle? Sorry I'm an ATX n00b. Where did Ray go? I know he's done a few..

 

[boat]

Hey SHOTIMER,
Is it very difficult to add the drain plug? Is there a kit to do so? If so, it would make that kind of maintence not so time consuming. I like the idea of Mobil 1 ATX fluid, GOOD STUFF! What are your thoughts on pumping out the old fluid out of the ATX? IS this a bad thing? Or is it better to just drain what comes out the plug and then add new to replace what was taken out? How many quarts do you put back in if you just drain the pain and replace the filter?

Eric,
I think silvapain said to "turn the car on" which I think is the key turned to the "running" position, and the trans pump will do the rest. If I am understanding that correctly. I would think that once you start to see clean fluid coming into the drain bucket, all of the old fluid is out. Just a thought.

 

[SHOZ123]

The official out of the Helm manual way to pump out the old fluid is in a sticky in the How Do I section of this forum.

It is very easy to add a drain plug. All you need is one of those universal drain plugs you can get at almost any autoparts store and a 1/2" drill bit.

 

[RAYJAY]

ok now there a thread for the PM"S I sent you....LOL and it says what i said

Jeff

 

[SHOtimer]

Hey SHOTIMER,
Is it very difficult to add the drain plug? Is there a kit to do so? If so, it would make that kind of maintence not so time consuming. I like the idea of Mobil 1 ATX fluid, GOOD STUFF! What are your thoughts on pumping out the old fluid out of the ATX? IS this a bad thing? Or is it better to just drain what comes out the plug and then add new to replace what was taken out? How many quarts do you put back in if you just drain the pain and replace the filter?

No, as Paul stated you just buy one at any autoparts store - drill an appropriately sized hole and bolt it in. (Tip: Start out with a really small hole, and then enlarge if needed). It really speeds up changing the fluid, because you just pull the plug and let it drain instead of having to drop the pan.

It all depends on the condition and previous maintanence of the ATX you are working on - on how to handle it. If it is low mileage, then I change it all. If it is high mileage and it hasn't been changed in awhile. I usually drop the pan and change that, then let it go 5-10k and then drop the pan and flush it all out.

To just drop the pan does about 6-7 quarts. The whole tranny takes 12-13 quarts.

Note: I just did a fluid change on my Mark VIII this weekend the TC has a drain plug on it, which was sweet. So, I could drop the pan, and drain the TC - made it easy to change out all the fluid.

Doug

 

[boat]

No, as Paul stated you just buy one at any autoparts store - drill an appropriately sized hole and bolt it in. (Tip: Start out with a really small hole, and then enlarge if needed). It really speeds up changing the fluid, because you just pull the plug and let it drain instead of having to drop the pan.

It all depends on the condition and previous maintanence of the ATX you are working on - on how to handle it. If it is low mileage, then I change it all. If it is high mileage and it hasn't been changed in awhile. I usually drop the pan and change that, then let it go 5-10k and then drop the pan and flush it all out.

To just drop the pan does about 6-7 quarts. The whole tranny takes 12-13 quarts.

Note: I just did a fluid change on my Mark VIII this weekend the TC has a drain plug on it, which was sweet. So, I could drop the pan, and drain the TC - made it easy to change out all the fluid.

Doug

SHOTimer,
Thanks for the tips. I will change the trans fluid that is in the pan, replace the gasket and filter, add a drain plug, and refill what was taken out with Mobil 1 ATX fluid. SHOULD I wait to do the Mobil 1 fluid until the flush, OR put it in NOW when I drop the pan??? Then like you said, in about 5k-10k miles, do the flush the way it has been described in the "How do I" section.

Thanks again
Mike

 

[projectSHO89]

Drop the pan and replace the filter. Disconenct the Auxillary cooler line back to the tranny, then attach a short piece of 3/8" hose to the cooler line. The line connected to the auxillary cooler will go to a drain pan and the line back to the tranny goes into the jug of new ATX fluid. Turn the car on and let the tranny's pump push out the old fluid and suck the new fluid in.

This procedure is half-right.

Pumping the old fluid out is fine.

However, there is no suction to draw the new fluid in, you'll have to dump it in via the filler tube.

There's nothing wrong with using this procedure. It's in Ford's service manual.... Just don't let the pump suck air from the pan for more than a couple of seconds.

From the 95 service manual for the AX4S:

Drain

1. Raise vehicle on hoist or jackstands.

2. Disconnect cooler inlet line from radiator fitting or top auxiliary cooler fitting. Install 5/16 or 3/8 inch ID hose over end of cooler line and put opposite end into drain pan. Lower vehicle.

3. CAUTION: Shut engine off as soon as the fluid has stopped being pumped out to prevent damage to the transaxle.

Start engine with transaxle in PARK. Run engine between idle and 1500 rpm for approximately 4 minutes or until transaxle fluid is no longer being pumped out of hose. Shut off engine.

4. Add 8.5 liters (10 quarts) of MERCON® fluid into transaxle through fill tube.

5. CAUTION: Shut engine off as soon as the fluid has stopped being pumped out to prevent damage to the transaxle.

Start engine with transaxle in PARK. Run engine between idle and 1500 rpm for approximately 4 minutes or until transaxle fluid is no longer being pumped out of hose. Shut off engine.

Steve

 

[SHOZ123]

Also when drilling the hole pay attention to the clearance that is needed inside the pan. IIRC the drain plug will stick inside about 3/4". It is a bolt that has a hole drilled through it, a seal with a nut for the inside and is tapped in the middle of it for the actual drain plug.

 

[boat]

The auxilliary cooler?

Is this just behind the air dam or front bumper?

I was looking up there yesterday, and noticed there has been a very small leak in that area, right below where the hoses connect on the driverside of the cooler, it is rusting pretty bad in that spot.

 

[SHOZ123]

The cooler is all aluminum. Probably the OEM hose clamp is losing it's tension or the hose is rotting away.

 

[boat]

This procedure is half-right.

Pumping the old fluid out is fine.

However, there is no suction to draw the new fluid in, you'll have to dump it in via the filler tube.

There's nothing wrong with using this procedure. It's in Ford's service manual.... Just don't let the pump suck air from the pan for more than a couple of seconds.

From the 95 service manual for the AX4S:



Steve

The Auxilliary cooler, is this behind the front bumper?

 

[boat]

If I just drop the pan and replace the fluid (6-7 quarts) and add, a drain plug, should I do a new filter at the same time, then when I do a full drain in about 5-10k and replace the filter again???

 

[RAYJAY]

myself I would change the filter now and just change the fluid next time

Jeff

 

[sho_ted]

doesnt changing filter mean removing the pan?