ARGH! A/C FIX WILL COST $650. HELP!

[centaurus3200]

hi all,

this a/c fix is killing me. said it would be $650 ($397 for the rebuilt a/c compressor and clutch) as long as i don't need to add freon. which i don't think i do. but who knows, eh?

i thought it would be more around $450 or so. is this about as good as it's going to get or can i do better? the a/c blows cold, but the clutch or the pulley (or both) grinds.

any ideas, or should i stop being so cheap and just
get it done?

i did some searches on autozone's website. the clutch is 84.99. i need to know which compressor i have. do you guys know?:

To find the right A/C CLUTCH, we need additional
information about your 1992 FORD TAURUS
 
Please select one of the following:
WITH 10P15F COMPRESSOR
WITH FS10 COMPRESSOR

this stuff is from the ford parts network:

Hvac, Air Conditioner, Compressor, Pulley, Sable,
Taurus, 3.0L Sho $67.31

Hvac, Air Conditioner, Compressor, Compressor Clutch, Sable, Taurus, 3.0L Sho $36.18

is this all i need? do i loose all the freon when i
install these? probably.

so, is all this worth it? if i try and cheap out, and get the cluch and pulley on for, say $250, but then i still have a decade old 120K mile ac compressor. how long do these things last?

what to do?

see ya,
Robby

 

[LaTechSHO]

first off you have the 10P15F compressor... nippondenso made it for the sho.....can handle high RPMs ....

secondly..... just replacing the clutch you won't lose any freon......only when you disconnect an a/c hose will that happen

thirdly..... you probably ought to find out which of the two is the problem.... clutch/compressor and go from there...

i plan on changing out my whole system... (compressor is locked up and condenser has a gaping hole in it) and all the hoses... comp/clutch.... condensor.... and freon all adds up to about 500..... granted i work at a parts store and get a **** of a discount.... none the less... i wouldn't break the system down unless you have to..... find out if its just the clutch... pull the clutch off and inspect the bearing/hub/coil/pulley... the works

just my opinion

Louis

 

[SolidState]

actually, I just had my compressor swapped out.

Watch ebay, you can typically find a good one for fairly cheap. I picked mine up off a guy on this forum for around 45usd with shipping to canada.

Replacing the clutch and pulley isn't all that hard (as long as yours isn't rusted on there to the point where you have to break out cutting tools to get it off!!), but the compressor has to be dismounted to removed the coil. Some people say you can unbolt the compressor and turn it with the hoses still attached, but on my car that wasn't possible (and it required removing the rad fans), so draining the freon was a must.

This can be done cheaper if you feel like you can get under the hood. I had no idea how to do it, but after watching Josh T. do it, I am confident that I can do it myself.

Charging the system is the only thing I haven't tried, but I have heard that there are kits at walmart in the US for charging your system.

 

[rangerj]

Centaurus,

If it is the A/C clutch and/or pulley bearing "grinding", then there is no need to replace the compressor. If it is the compressor grinding, then the clutch coil, face, and pulley usually come with a new or rebuilt compressor.

A new compressor has a "list" (full retail) price of about $550.00, and rebuilt "list" for about $350.00. A new clutch, coil, and pulley (with a new bearing) list for about $200.00.

Removing the clutch face plate is relatively simple, that is, you remove the nut and pry the face away from the pulley. I use a "special tool" made for this purpose, but you can use wood shims to wedge between the surfaces and force them apart. You can also use screwdrivers, wedged between the surfaces, to force the face off of the shaft. This is OK if you are going to replace the clutch, but otherwise this method (screwdrivers)will damage the clutch surface.

Once the face plate is removed, the pulley is held on by a "snap ring". Next the coil pack is also held on by a "snap ring". When replaceing the snap rings, please pay attention to the "orientation" of the snap ring. The "beveled" surface of the snap ring faces YOU (or outward).

Most likely you will have to unbolt the compressor and tilt it downward to get access to the snap rings, but you should not have to discharge the refrigerant (freon, R-12, etc.)

If your compressor is bad, you have a decision to make. For a like amount that the shop wants to fix your A/C you can get a compressor with a clutch, pulley, and coil, and a flushing kit, and a new filter dryer, and a conversion kit for an R-134a conversion. Whatever you decide, if you want advice and/or encouragement, we are out here. rangerj