Anyone else ever lose......

[corvgreg]

...their tappet holder while doing valve adjustment on the number one exhaust valve? I just started adjusting the exhaust valves and while removing the shim, the tappet holder dropped into the engine compartment and I've looked for an hour and half and I still can't find it! Where the *##%&** could this thing be? If I can't find mine, anyone want to sell theirs?
Greg


------------------
'95 Red MTX
'95 White ATX All options Chrome Slicers
'95 Moonlight Blue ATX

[This message has been edited by corvgreg (edited 01-31-2002).]

 

[noSHO]

DO NOT start your engine. You might have to pull the oil pan to get that thing back.

------------------
-Dave
green/black 92, mods

 

[SHOTIME]

most likely went down the oil return hole and down into the crank and pan.

Get it out my friend.

------------------

Eric
mailto:[email protected][email protected]</A>
My Web Space
New England SHO Specialists

 

[Bizzy]

I sure hope you find it!

Like noSHO said, do NOT start it up until you do!

------------------
SHO's are like kids...they test your patience but you gotta love 'em!

Beth
'91 Plus MTX, Mostly stock
K&N Filter, Coneless
Colgan Custom Bra
Racing Series Driving Lights
Mods in the works
Many items on wish list!

 

[DeaconBlue]

That's why Mark says in the video to pulg the oil return port in the head using a screw driver.

------------------
95 MTX
with a few mods

 

[corvgreg]

Thanks all...I didn't think of the oil return hole.

Greg

 

[sdpatt]

There are four oil return holes - one in each lower corner of the heads. They are large enough to stick a finger in. You should plug them with a scrap of rag or paper towel to ensure small parts don't find a way down into the return passage.

Scott

[This message has been edited by sdpatt (edited 01-31-2002).]

 

[corvgreg]

I'm really bummed about this...is there any way a long flexible magnet tool snaked down could retrieve it without dropping the pan?
You learn your lessons after stuff like this happens. I did the timimg belt/water pump/cps last week and everything went fine with that.
sdpatt, a question for you. Since I just got started on the valves, the first #1 exhaust was at .33MM gap, with 2.450 shim. I installed a 2.500 shim to bring the gap to.28MM. Would you recommend I use the 2.525 to get the clearance to .255? DO you set them near the minimum, or stay in the middle range?
Thanks,
Greg

------------------
'95 Red MTX
'95 White ATX All options Chrome Slicers (Wife's hot rod!)
'95 Moonlight Blue ATX

 

[corvgreg]

After several hours and many cuss words, the oil pan finally came off and......the tappet holder was sitting in the bottom of the oil pan!
I sure as **** know now to cover up the oil drain passages with rags!
Thanks all for your help,
Greg

------------------
'95 Red MTX
'95 White ATX All options Chrome Slicers (Wife's hot rod!)
'95 Moonlight Blue ATX

 

[sdpatt]

Originally posted by corvgreg:
I'm really bummed about this...is there any way a long flexible magnet tool snaked down could retrieve it without dropping the pan?
You learn your lessons after stuff like this happens. I did the timimg belt/water pump/cps last week and everything went fine with that.
sdpatt, a question for you. Since I just got started on the valves, the first #1 exhaust was at .33MM gap, with 2.450 shim. I installed a 2.500 shim to bring the gap to.28MM. Would you recommend I use the 2.525 to get the clearance to .255? DO you set them near the minimum, or stay in the middle range?
Thanks,
Greg

Greg, I'm thankful you found the tappet holder, but I'm sorry you had to learn the hard way about plugging those drain holes.

As for the gapping targets, my feeler gauge set has thicknesses in the range of interest of .152, .178, .203, .229, .254, .279, .305, .330 and .356mm. For the intake valves I shoot for the nominal gap of .203mm (.20mm) or one measurement smaller at .178mm. For the exhausts I aim for the nominal gap of .305mm (.30mm) or one notch smaller at .279mm. I realize that setting the gap to the smallest gauge in the range would be acceptable, but for most calibrations, the nominal setting is the optimal with all factors considered. So that is what I shoot for (or one, valve lift enhancing step in the small direction).

Scott

 

[corvgreg]

Thanks Scott for your help. I've got my other 2 cars to do the adjustment to, and I'm sure these will go much smoother.
Good luck with your road trip...you've got a lot of 60K's ahead.

Greg