My 2010 SHO is acting up. It's cold outside and when in auto, seems to blow only lukewarm air. It even blows cold sometimes. When I run it on defrost, it will run almost too hot, when set at 72. Any common issues or experience with this?
Any climate control heat issues?
- Thread starter kcobra
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
SHOrod
Torrie Tuned
I don't have any complaints with my SHO, my my wife's EcoBoost MKT is doing something like this. When set to 69 degrees F I notice the air coming from the vents cycles slowly from cool to lukewarm, back to cool, etc. It does get nice and toasty on the defrost setting, but in Auto or non-defrost settings it cycles.
I hooked my scan tool up to it and checked the DATC system. It has a diagnostic code for a cabin temp sensor shorted to ground. In datastream, regardless of cabin temperature, the in-cabin temperature reading is always 24 degrees C (aka "room temperature"). I haven't started digging in to that yet.
-Rod
I hooked my scan tool up to it and checked the DATC system. It has a diagnostic code for a cabin temp sensor shorted to ground. In datastream, regardless of cabin temperature, the in-cabin temperature reading is always 24 degrees C (aka "room temperature"). I haven't started digging in to that yet.
-Rod
Last edited:
I am willing to bet its the sniffer, Its the sensor that reads cabin temp. You will notice the little vent to the left of the "start/stop" button on the knee bolster.
Im sorry if my terminology throws you off, I work for Ford at their main IP assembly plant.
Im sorry if my terminology throws you off, I work for Ford at their main IP assembly plant.
Also, Does you '10 have Navigation? If so your setting within your nav screen could be off. I was experiencing the luke warm to cold. went into the nav unit, Selected vent. Then went back to auto. All was well afterwards. Make sure the car is up to temp too.
SHOrod
Torrie Tuned
It took me all of about 5 minutes to pull the knee panel off and remove the sensor in the MKT. I tested it with an ohm meter, right around 90 kohms which would be 24 degrees C. It should have been around 40 kohms. It did drop slightly when I held held on to the sensor with my fingers, but it didn't go anywhere near as low as it should have. The sensor should cost less than $20 and I plan to see if the dealer has any in stock today.
-Rod
-Rod
Fantastic. :woo-hoo:
SHOrod
Torrie Tuned
The dealer has to order the sensor but said it will be here today. After tax it's a bit over $21. I'll post a follow-up when I know if it fixes the issue or not. I suppose it would be covered under warranty, but for $21 and not having to worry about someone else tearing in to the vehicle I'd rather do it myself.
-Rod
-Rod
SHOrod
Torrie Tuned
I installed the new cabin sensor and all is well with the climate control now. The $21 sensor fixed it.
While I had access to the sensor and wiring I connected my scan tool and checked for codes. With the sensor unplugged I had a code for the cabin temp sensor circuit open. When I connected the original sensor I had a code for cabin temp sensor shorted to ground and the cabin temp reading was 75 degrees C. If I wiggled the connector it would drop to a reading of 24 degrees C. If I disconnected the sensor it would also give a reading of 24 degrees C. I then connected the new sensor and had a reading of 17 degrees C which would be pretty accurate considering I just brought the sensor in from my cold car. With the new sensor installed I cleared the HVAC system codes, rechecked for codes (none) and took the car for a drive. The HVAC system worked flawlessly.
-Rod
While I had access to the sensor and wiring I connected my scan tool and checked for codes. With the sensor unplugged I had a code for the cabin temp sensor circuit open. When I connected the original sensor I had a code for cabin temp sensor shorted to ground and the cabin temp reading was 75 degrees C. If I wiggled the connector it would drop to a reading of 24 degrees C. If I disconnected the sensor it would also give a reading of 24 degrees C. I then connected the new sensor and had a reading of 17 degrees C which would be pretty accurate considering I just brought the sensor in from my cold car. With the new sensor installed I cleared the HVAC system codes, rechecked for codes (none) and took the car for a drive. The HVAC system worked flawlessly.
-Rod
TonyTheTIger57
Tony
My blend door is clicking and popping when really cold outside.
The blend door aka actuator is apparently a known issue and you should have the dealer replace. Mine went out about a month ago. Per my dealer, the actuator is the same one used in the Mustang and that particular part has issues.
My SHO has been in for repair of AC issues three times in the last month, latest fix completed yesterday. The symptoms were no cold air blowing with a/c set at 60. Strong air flow, but only vent air blowing. They've now replaced a pressure switch twice. First trip, they pulled the old "couldn't replicate" issue and didn't do anything. Second time, a week later, they finally did diagnostics and found a "code" indicating this pressure switch was defective. Replaced, but less than 2 weeks later, same issue. This time, they claimed moisture had gotten into the pressure switch connectors, shorting it out. Huh? I guess they didn't install correctly, I don't know. They told me they packed the connectors well with dialectric grease this time to keep moisture out. I can only hope at this point that this will be a permanent fix...
My SHO has been in for repair of AC issues three times in the last month, latest fix completed yesterday. The symptoms were no cold air blowing with a/c set at 60. Strong air flow, but only vent air blowing. They've now replaced a pressure switch twice. First trip, they pulled the old "couldn't replicate" issue and didn't do anything. Second time, a week later, they finally did diagnostics and found a "code" indicating this pressure switch was defective. Replaced, but less than 2 weeks later, same issue. This time, they claimed moisture had gotten into the pressure switch connectors, shorting it out. Huh? I guess they didn't install correctly, I don't know. They told me they packed the connectors well with dialectric grease this time to keep moisture out. I can only hope at this point that this will be a permanent fix...
The past two days I have noticed that when I come to a stop it will begin to blow cold air, however if I rev the engine it will warm to the prescribed temperature. It is acting as if the coolant were low. I had it and oil change service done at the dealer and fluids were full or filled.
Similar threads
