Anti lift kit

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Bluezone

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Just curious if anyone has ever produced a anti lift kit for the Taurus SHO.
It doesn't look like it would be too difficult to move the rear pivot point of the lower front control arm down below the mounting point (28-29 mm). Hard part would be making up a mounting box and attaching it to the subframe. Fill the empty void with a piece of aluminum and use longer bolts.
The white line kit for Subaru moves the Pivot Point down 20 mm. 28 mm might be excessive. Mind you longer wheelbase car if I'm not mistaken.
 

Ecoboost_xsport

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Do you mean strapping the suspension to keep the front end down?

I've daydreamer about water jetting a plate that sandwiches between the front struts top hat and the body of the car that has a loop. Then using a ratchet strap (strong one) to crank the top of the suspension to somewhere on the bottom...lower control arm or something.

Something to keep the front suspension from extending too much when launching and minimizing the front to rear weight transfer...keeping the weight on the front wheels...

Idk...was just random thoughts going through my head...I'm sure there's a better way.
 

Bluezone

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Not quite what I'm talking about. I am daydreaming a little bit as well. What anti lift geometry on Macpherson strut is. Relocating the pivot Points to change how the suspension load feeds into the suspension. If you drop the rear suspension point you dialling more anti-lift.
By reducing the amount of lift on acceleration you improve traction.
Watch these videos to get a better idea.


 

Bluezone

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Do you mean strapping the suspension to keep the front end down?

I've daydreamer about water jetting a plate that sandwiches between the front struts top hat and the body of the car that has a loop. Then using a ratchet strap (strong one) to crank the top of the suspension to somewhere on the bottom...lower control arm or something.

Something to keep the front suspension from extending too much when launching and minimizing the front to rear weight transfer...keeping the weight on the front wheels...

Idk...was just random thoughts going through my head...I'm sure there's a better way.
Okay I've been looking at the rear Pivot Point mounting bracket on the Taurus, Edge and Explorer. They each move to Pivot Point to a different position.
Top picture is 2011 Taurus, second picture is flex and last picture is Explorer. You wouldn't mind doing measurements of the thickness and width of the aluminum rear pivot bushing would you? If the dimensions are the same as a Taurus can a kid wouldn't be necessary just changing of the rear pivot bushing to a different vehicle application.
 

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Ecoboost_xsport

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Okay I've been looking at the rear Pivot Point mounting bracket on the Taurus, Edge and Explorer. They each move to Pivot Point to a different position.
Top picture is 2011 Taurus, second picture is flex and last picture is Explorer. You wouldn't mind doing measurements of the thickness and width of the aluminum rear pivot bushing would you? If the dimensions are the same as a Taurus can a kid wouldn't be necessary just changing of the rear pivot bushing to a different vehicle application.
interesting, I actually have a set of the aluminum pivot blocks on my workbench as I am getting ready to fill the voids with 94A urethane...I can get you somethng today or tommorow.
 

Bluezone

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interesting, I actually have a set of the aluminum pivot blocks on my workbench as I am getting ready to fill the voids with 94A urethane...I can get you somethng today or tommorow.
Cool I'm very interested to see what the numbers look like. I found a video of a Pursuit Interceptor getting new control arm and Pivot Point. Actually you something very similar to the flex.
 

Bluezone

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I found specs online looks like they may fit. I've got a set ordered of the Explorer ones, arrive tomorrow. Don't know if I'm going to have time to try them out before I head to the track Saturday but if I do I'll let everyone know if they help.
 

Bluezone

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Looks like I won't be testing the bushings out this weekend. I was all set to put them in and opened up the boxes. They sent me 2 right hand parts. The boxes were marked correctly to to being a left and a right hand part.
 

Bluezone

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Do you mean strapping the suspension to keep the front end down?

I've daydreamer about water jetting a plate that sandwiches between the front struts top hat and the body of the car that has a loop. Then using a ratchet strap (strong one) to crank the top of the suspension to somewhere on the bottom...lower control arm or something.

Something to keep the front suspension from extending too much when launching and minimizing the front to rear weight transfer...keeping the weight on the front wheels...

Idk...was just random thoughts going through my head...I'm sure there's a better way.
You're ratchet strap idea isn't that far off the mark. Honda racers sometimes use a limiter strap with the front suspension. They also employ traction bars to the front suspension to maintain suspension geometry and Toe in toe out. I would suspect it also has some anti lift properties.
Now what I'm intending to do is mimic what white line offers on other front wheel drive vehicles. The idea is that you lower the rear mount to "reduce" the amount of anti-lift in the front suspension. It sounds backwards but what it does is, allow the front struts and springs to carry the weight of the car, as opposed to the lower A-arm suspension component, and even out the pressure across the two front wheels. You end up with better traction off the line this way. It also improves understeer in corners by allowing better weight distribution across the front suspension. Plus improving on throttle corner exit traction. This mod has been euphemistically labelled the poor man's limited slip, because of the effect it has. This also acts to soften the front suspension. Because the spring is then carrying the weight of the car as opposed to the suspension components. The front sway bar also acts softer as well, because it isn't fighting the geometry of the control arm. To be honest I don't know if this style suspension geometry change, dropping the rear Pivot Point so that the a-arm is parallel with the ground (more neutral position), will help with the Taurus platform. Subi's and other front and all-wheel drive cars tend to have lots of anti dive/anti lift geometry dialled in. That's why this type of modification helps with them.
Now if you wanted to actually add anti dive geometry to the Explorer. Raising the rear Pivot Point would increase the anti dive/anti lift geometry. So switching to the Taurus rear suspension mounts would raise the rear Pivot Point and help with this. It's much more difficult with Taurus platform because there are no Factory pivot bushing brackets to raise the Pivot Point any higher.
Now there's a bunch of fancy math with geometry and t h u r s t vectors (acceleration), instant centres and Center of balance 2 explain how all this works. But I have a much simpler analogy to help understand how this affects the front suspension.
Imagine a hinge with the Pivot Point pointing up towards the front of the car. This is the same as lowering the rear pivot of the front a arm. Now imagine one half of the hinge is attached to the car and the other half has a steering knuckle attached to it. Now if you apply forward power to the wheel attached to the steering knuckle, the hinge will open because the power is pulling the hinge open. This will take the load off the spring and extend the strut. Lifting the front end of the vehicle.
Now imagine a hinge with a pivot Points slanting down toward the front of the car. This is an anti lift geometry. Now everything's the same as in the last example except the Pivot Point is slanting down towards the front. If you apply forward power to the wheel it will close the hinge and try to compress the spring and shock. This will resist the force of acceleration. With enough of an angle on pivot point of the hinge, which is impossible, you could actually compress the front suspension and drop the front end of the car under acceleration.
There is also some anti Squat already dialled into the rear suspension with the 2 rear lower suspension mounting points. Meaning the lower parallel link and trailing link. The pivot Points angle up towards the front of the car.
Does this make sense to you?
 
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Bluezone

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I forgot to mention I've also got a left and right mount to try this set up now. I will update when I have them installed. Might be switching to the stiffer s h o Springs to compensate for the softer suspension as well.
 

Bluezone

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Okay I got the new bushings installed. It went pretty smoothly except for the fact that you need a press to put the bushings on. When you have a 4500 pound car though, all you need is a hydraulic jack to use it as a press. Lol. Don't try this at home kids.
Now I measured the toe before putting the new bushings in. I had had and Alignment done on the car 3 months ago with new suspension parts. Apparently things have settled in because I was 1/16 was an inch toed out.
With the new bushings installed I was now at 0 toe. That's not bad because with the extra power it will tend to toe in. Unfortunately I didn't take measurements of ride height and wheelbase. I do have some earlier pictures though. To my eye it looks like I may have increased the track slightly and very slightly dropped the nose of the car. At least to my eye.
The car feels like it turns in a lot better and rides smoother. Might be my imagination but it seems to launch a little better as well. I will know in a week's time because the last track day of the year is coming up next weekend. If my 60 foot times improve, then it's helped.20211008 163049
Taurus bushing top, Explorer bushing bottom.

20211008 163224

Explorer bushing left, Taurus bushing right.20211008 163256

Explorer bushing left, Taurus bushing right.20211008 163242

Explorer bushing left, Taurus bushing right.
Screenshot 20211009 151838 Photos2
Before.Screenshot 20211009 151753 Photos3

After.
 
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Bluezone

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Did you have to alter the Explorer bushing at all, or was a simple bolt-in?
The only thing I had to alter was the small alignment pin on the subframe. This had to be removed because the Taurus bushings have a clearance cut, in the aluminum. As far as I know the intent is to keep you from putting bushings for other Ford's in there.
If you look carefully at picture 3 you'll see the cut out on the Taurus bushing and the lack of one on the Explorer bushing.
 

Bluezone

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Okay I had to replace one of the rear toe links. So I took the car in for an alignment and had them check the front suspension settings after doing the anti lift kit. Good news everyone. Barely made any difference in Castor and camber. Both well within the green zone (10ths of a deg). The toe setting was by out by 1/32. So putting the anti lift kit in the front has not disturbed the front geometry at all.
The toe link I installed myself, was almost perfect, it was only out 1/32nd. On the other hand, the passenger side toe link installed by Ford dealer, was out almost half an inch. Ford dealer quality huh.
I won't find out till next year how much of a difference, the anti lift kit has made for traction, but the effect is apparent on applying throttle. So it's still yay or nay as to being helpful until I get it to the drag strip. To be continued next spring...
 
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