Antenna mast - new replacement PN?

[itwonder]

Anybody replaced the power antenna mast lately? The Metra numbers we've used in the past and discussed many times in the forum, Metra 44-PWRGM301 (the mid-90's Corvette part) and Metra 44-PWRFD260, seem to be discontinued. Is there a current replacement mast that will work?

 

[sperold]

I have never had any luck replacing a mast on the power antennae. I have bought a few off E-bay that might have worked if I could have gotten the original mast out of the body of the power unit. The instructions to simply soak it in penetrating oil and pull the extendable unit out are oversimplified, as it doesn't happen.

 

[sperold]

Here is my experience:
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=127018

I never did re-install the power antennae as the painting deadline loomed and I couldn't solve the issues so I pupped-out and put a standard mast in and replaced the fender.

RockAuto used to sell a "universal" power ariel in their listings and I bought one to have a look. It was the exact same motor assembly and the attachment points were correct but the top of the aluminum shaft (that comes out the fender) did not have the swivel arrangement to accomodate the curved fender top of a Taurus, so no cigar.

 

[tery]

Here's my post from a couple days ago...

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=127452

You have to remove the motor, I did get a mast with the "rip cord" and it works just fine, once you get it installed in the motor, which does not happen like the repair vids online.
If you want the info where I got mine, I can look it up in history...
Good luck, Terry

 

[SHOMON]

The last two masts I replaced I removed the whole assembly from the car. Removed the cover and remove the broken cord and not have to trim your new mast. The antenna will then go all the way up.

 

[go-to]

Got my mast from here.

http://www.antennamastsrus.com/Ford/Taurus/Taurus 1992-1995.htm

 

[Biggie]

I have a power antenna that works fine but the motor is loud when going up only. I would like to replace it with a solid antenna. Does anyone know who might sell those?

 

[sperold]

It has a fairy complicated mounting system behind the inner fender. It actually mounts to the inside of the outer fender and has a rod with a fastener that goes down to the half height mark of the fender depth. I would be surprised if it is anything but a Ford part. Anyone who has sold a fender on this forum probably has a regular mast assembly left over. The mast itself is the regular Ford spin on model.

If you remove the screws on the inner fender at the back, you can get a spray-oil can back in there and spray the assembly, and it will probably get through to the wind-up drum.

With the mast extended, you could unplug your wiring behind the glove box to leave it in the extended position.

 

[Biggie]

I'll try to see if I can lubricate it. If that doesn't do it, ill leave it extended. Thanks for the information.

 

[go-to]

Is the noise that big of a deal? It *is* pretty dang old at this point and impressive that it is still functional.

I replaced my antenna this weekend with a new piece from the link I posted above and it all good to go.

Mine ended up with a broken portion of the track stuck in the motor, so taking it out was required.

I'll try to see if I can lubricate it. If that doesn't do it, ill leave it extended. Thanks for the information.

 

[tery]

I gotta second that thought about being impressed with those little motors still running, window motors too, I've pulled four out of the jy and once they are cleaned and put back together, they work like a champ, Pretty simple design, but really, seems like they and that same little motor inside the antennae could last another 20 years.

 

[itwonder]

Got my mast from here.

http://www.antennamastsrus.com/Ford/Taurus/Taurus 1992-1995.htm

I followed Chris's lead and bought two masts from antennamastrus.com. They ship usps out of WI, and mine arrived in just two days. Cost was $12.99 plus $6.00 flat-rate shipping. The fit is perfect. The mast comes with two different length contact barrels; the shorter one should be used on the SHO. Both the antenna on the car and my spare are back in operation!

 

[go-to]

:woo-hoo:

 

[sperold]

I must admit, this thread is giving me the strength to try again.
My miserable failure to remove the mast from the housing (with that barrel shaped spacer) is not so vivid now and I am ready to try again.

 

[go-to]

After removing the retaining exterior *nut*, there is still another nut down inside the tube that needs to be removed. After that is loose, turn on the radio and pull the antenna up and out once it reaches the top.

If your new antenna has a longer plastic gear strip than your old one...a piece is likely still stuck inside the motor.

I must admit, this thread is giving me the strength to try again.
My miserable failure to remove the mast from the housing (with that barrel shaped spacer) is not so vivid now and I am ready to try again.

 

[itwonder]

X2 And if you don't want to run the antenna motor to get that old mast out, it's still not difficult. Just remove the one nut and take the cover off the antenna mechanism. You'll see where the mast's serrated plastic cable is reeled into a drum. Cut that cable with dikes and the mast will come right out. Then you can disassemble the drum and plastic gears inside the mechanism, remove the remainder of the old cable, clean the pieces up, remove all the old hard grease, and reassemble with new synthetic grease. Just take care (I take pictures) of how everything comes out, and put it back in the same order. The directions with the mast explain how to install it. Basically, you just poke its cable in the hole until it catches the reel and run the antenna motor to wind it in. I do this on my workbench with a battery and touching clipleads to the motor connector because it gives me way more control than trying to do it with the radio switch. Just ignore that yellow sticker on the antenna that warns about bypassing the controller; it's fine.

P.S. Once the antenna assembly is off the car, you'll see the gray *** metal piece at the top of it comes off with 3 little Phillips head screws. Removing that makes it easy to see how the mast is retained.

 

[tery]

I don't get how some people say that once that retainer nut is off, the mast will pull out.. The one in my sho that I have done so far, would never have "pulled out" cause there is a lip the the bottom of the widest tube that would never pull through the opening that goes up and out. I had to take it off from the inside by pulling it down and out. I wanna see a video of someone pulling a mast up and out of a SHO. I don't believe that it can be done from the construction I found inside and repaired/replaced

 

[itwonder]

I don't get how some people say that once that retainer nut is off, the mast will pull out.... I don't believe that it can be done from the construction I found inside and repaired/replaced

I think the problem is your antenna mast retaining barrel is frozen in place, or perhaps an incorrect mast was installed at some point. The design is the hex nut retains a barrel which in turn retains the mast and provide the electrical connection between the mast and the antenna lead. The barrel can get stuck in there, and then the mast won't come out the top even if the hex nut is removed. Remove the three Phillips head screws in the *** metal piece at the top of the antenna. That piece will then come off and you will be able to see the top of the old barrel better to work it out of there. The new masts include a new barrel.

 

[go-to]

Replaced my mast again today...had to remove the whole assembly this time to get the broken piece of plastic out of the gears.

Is EVERYTHING on an SHO hard to work on?!

 

[itwonder]

Replaced my mast again today...had to remove the whole assembly this time to get the broken piece of plastic out of the gears.

Is EVERYTHING on an SHO hard to work on?!

Well, yes ; but in the case of the antenna, that wouldn't be fair. Power antenna assemblies are similar regardless of make, at least the ones I have come across. The SHO's is actually pretty easy to remove for service compared to some others.