Another rod bearing question

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rubydist

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I would plastigage at least some of the new bearings. The reason is that there is a wide range of allowable clearance, and my experience (confirmed from what I have read from others on the forum) is that if the rod bearings are at the high side of the clearance range, that one should be running 0W40 or 10W40 oil rather than xW30 oil, but that if they are toward the tight side of the clearance range that 0W30 or 5W30 is much better.

When I put new bearings in the green 95, the rod brg clearance was between .0025" and .0030", so I used 0W40 synthetic.
 

itwonder

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I would go ahead and do the rod bearing job. At that mileage the car is due for it anyway. No need to Plastigage.
 

93rev2sev

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I had the timing belt and tensioner off last month, thinking I had crank cancer. Did not. Seemed to be OK. Had to put the tensioner in a vise to retract the piston, was tight. Tensioner pulley bearing smooth, no sign of immenent failure.

Grandpa to grandpa, what makes you think that?

1. The number one cylinder is closest to the timing tensioner.

B. Timing tensioner failure is quite common.

III. I didn't know you already checked it.
 

pccorrig1

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1. The number one cylinder is closest to the timing tensioner.

B. Timing tensioner failure is quite common.

III. I didn't know you already checked it.

You are right!!!

I took the accessory drive belts and pulleys, and the upper and middle timing belt covers off today, started it up, and can see the tensioner hammering against the block. The pulley itself appears to be good. I'm not sure exactly whats wrong yet, and have posted a question on the Yahoo V6SHO group, if you are interested in following along.

Otherwise, maybe you or someone out there can tell me where to get a replacement tensioner for the '94 3.2 ATX.

And grandpa, send me an email with your address, and I'll mail you the $5.

My 4 year old twin grandsons call me Pop-Pop.

Thanks.....Pete C
 

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