Airaid Intake just released....

[SHO U UP]

Think it would help if you could get more air thru the grille into the air box.. Oval is quite small. Believe upper grille backing also blocks air from going straight into it.
Still - Would like to see IAT temps in stop and go driving. This will tell the real story as to how much outside vs under-hood air is getting into filter & engine.

There is a black shield behind the factory grill that helps to blend it all together. When I (and Kirk) had our bumpers off for grill removal and painting, we both ditched that piece and now have a better air flow due to that being gone. It would be killer to have a functional ram air style hood that flows air right into that box while driving.

 

[BlueOval]

Is getting like 5 whp at the most worth 400 bucks??????????

The guys I work with will pay thousands.

 

[PhantomX]

The problem is it feeds the same bent up piping. I really can't see it making any more power than a k&n panel filter. Case in point, I have the Hennessey CAI which is a stretch to say there is anything "cold" about it, but it does replace the factory piping quite well. The problem is it gets really hot because it's metal. It has an open element filter and the box "almost" seals to the hood, but honestly make little power. I know Hennessey claims 24hp but I just haven't seen it

I think you might see modest gains over a panel filter, saying that though I think people going from a totally stock setup to this will most definately see gains.

I also agree with the metal piping getting to hot, the plastic I think disapates the heat a bit better but still gets hot. The best thing to do would be to actually wrap it with that heat tape, like the wrap headers, etc.

But overall completely stock to this would see an improvement...

 

[RonPorter]

Another thing to many people over look is "where" the engine makes power. Everyone is obsessed with "peak" numbers they forget to look "under the curve" if you have 2 identical cars both making the same peak HP but one car makes 15HP more everywhere in the power band, that car is going to win. A good intake will help the car make power everywhere, not just peak. I've beaten plenty of cars that make 50 more peak HP power then my car, only because my car made more power for a longer period of time everywhere in the rev range.

Yep.

Not the same type car, except for the turbo, but look at my LGT. My reflash makes it mimic an STI with 230 WHP and maybe 290 gross. I get 1.8 60' times, and run mid 13s at 98-99 mph. Stage 2 with exhaust uncorks the big end, but, with what a lotta folks seem to to think that it's not much whp, the area under the curve gets me to the big end quicker.

 

[darreli]

I think you might see modest gains over a panel filter, saying that though I think people going from a totally stock setup to this will most definately see gains.

I also agree with the metal piping getting to hot, the plastic I think disapates the heat a bit better but still gets hot. The best thing to do would be to actually wrap it with that heat tape, like the wrap headers, etc.

But overall completely stock to this would see an improvement...

Doing the wrap and painting it black this week! Along with a couple extra fixes ;-) I'll post the pics when it's all done. That is if I figure out the pic posting thing on here

 

[EcoBrick Bob]

There is a black shield behind the factory grill that helps to blend it all together. When I (and Kirk) had our bumpers off for grill removal and painting, we both ditched that piece and now have a better air flow due to that being gone. It would be killer to have a functional ram air style hood that flows air right into that box while driving.

My G8 GT has a sealed (mostly sealed - like new AirRaid SHO Box) RotoFab CAI that pulls air from below, behind the headlight/driving light area. I modded it by opening a flap in the lower bumper panel so air is scooped upwards to the CAI. There is enough area that if I hit water, that it won't get to filter, unless front is submerged!!!! MY IAT temps ( have Vector HRSK - fast recovery IAT for GM)
recover almost immediately, and are at or a degree below ambient temp.

Wish I knew where I could get a quick recovery IAT for EB engine as well as a 170 deg. Thermostat. While my IAT temps seem lower and recover quicker with my new home-made CAI, they are much slower to recover than G8.
Example... Tonite temp was 85 deg. IAT after about 2 mi of 55 mph driving was 88. Spiked to 93 when coming to stop, and recovered in about 1,000 ft to 90 at 25 mph.
As posted before... here again is my Flex EcoBoost CAI.



I too have removed grille back panel that both SHO & Flex have. Much better air flow into stock oval designed to funnel air to filter. My engine temps are rarely over 3 deg variance from 190, and usually a couple degrees on the low side of 190.


If the AirRaid CAI had been available a few weeks ago, would have likely purchased.... Love "Engine Fluff!!!"

Motto... Sometimes... Lookiing fast is almost as good as being fast!:thankyou::laugh_ti::laugh_ti::laugh_ti:

 

[SHO U UP]

Shoot Bob, one of the manufacturers months and months ago wanted one of our cars to do a test and create one for the SHOs in Cali. I can't recall if it was AEM or Airaid, but they've been at it for quite some time. I'm sure others will pop up now here and there too. :swing:

 

[SHODWN]

Sure **** Im listening.... Up to my ears in V8 Mtr swaps..

As I said about a Year ago the stock system works fantastic! This peices for 400.00 is a bust. Your not getting 9hp from it, just no way..

Darrel, has the Hen kit and this kit even with its MAJOR flaws would allow more air that the RAID kit and his car shows 10hp on the dyno but compared to a now 12s car.. Apples to Apples not oranges..

I have a Hen kit that I cut a modified all the problems out of that kit (d, I will send you the info) and I still did not pick up 10.. I think, but not for the money that's being asked for it. The turbos have a 2" inlet on the turbo, so they are only going to take what they need, and this is why the factory intake is pretty dam good.

As far as Mine its looking like it will be finished by Christmas, im not in a huge hurry, and with the Cad fees, Mold construction fees ( both about 5000.00) then trying to figure out the cost of the material and the cost to make each piece (per unit) I need to make sure that people are getting their money worth..


You still need to consider the velocity of the air coming in, the turbos can only take so much, if you feed them with 3" pipes they are still only taking what they need.. If I build you a 1" fuel line would people buy it because it will flow more gas? Nope the car only takes what it needs.. If I build 9" exhaust would it flow better? Nope there is a design in what was built from the factory..

This car will be like all the other SHO's, the power pack is designed VERY well, sure it can use some help but you wont find a missing 20hp in things like intake and exhaust.

 

[darreli]

EB Bob, Rotofab makes a nice kit, that's for sure. I plan on running a duct behind the lower grill up to the airbox, much like Kirk did. In addition, I'm wrapping the pretty, polished pipe in thermo tec and painting it black (nothin else under the hood is polished anyway, yet). Pricing making something in carbon fiber to replace the metal all together. Not sure what to do next at this point. Once the meth kits on, I think we'll press the tune a little more, other than that we'll see if anyone does something with the turbos and if I can get my hands on a set of heads fairly cheap cnc those and see what happens.

If I can get a trans I'd like to have that built along with a TC as well.

 

[SHO U UP]

Sure **** Im listening.... Up to my ears in V8 Mtr swaps..

As I said about a Year ago the stock system works fantastic! This peices for 400.00 is a bust. Your not getting 9hp from it, just no way..

Darrel, has the Hen kit and this kit even with its MAJOR flaws would allow more air that the RAID kit and his car shows 10hp on the dyno but compared to a now 12s car.. Apples to Apples not oranges..

I have a Hen kit that I cut a modified all the problems out of that kit (d, I will send you the info) and I still did not pick up 10.. I think, but not for the money that's being asked for it. The turbos have a 2" inlet on the turbo, so they are only going to take what they need, and this is why the factory intake is pretty dam good.

As far as Mine its looking like it will be finished by Christmas, im not in a huge hurry, and with the Cad fees, Mold construction fees ( both about 5000.00) then trying to figure out the cost of the material and the cost to make each piece (per unit) I need to make sure that people are getting their money worth..


You still need to consider the velocity of the air coming in, the turbos can only take so much, if you feed them with 3" pipes they are still only taking what they need.. If I build you a 1" fuel line would people buy it because it will flow more gas? Nope the car only takes what it needs.. If I build 9" exhaust would it flow better? Nope there is a design in what was built from the factory..

This car will be like all the other SHO's, the power pack is designed VERY well, sure it can use some help but you wont find a missing 20hp in things like intake and exhaust.

I was just giving ya a hard time there Kirk. I know once the weather broke, you'd probably be slammed. Great to hear business is booming. Hopefully you'll be able to take a break here in a few months for our SHO meet at my place. Ok, nuff talking, get back to work.

 

[illSHOyou]

If you want a 20-40 hp boost in performance then spend $400.00 on a nitrous system and inject into the inter-cooler. At least your money will be well spent, and if done right no body, not even the factory, is going to know it was ever there...

 

[PhantomX]

Never ceases to amaze that people who insist that opening up that tiny little inlet won't net you any gain at all and there couldn't possibly be any more HP on the table over the extremely "efficient" factory design and we all should never mod our cars because intakes and exhausts don't do anything.

Honestly while the turbo's will only flow so much if you don't even give them what they can properly flow in the first place they won't perform at there peak, they will only perform at what the factory "wants" them to perform which is inline with the everyday driver needs. The car is designed to run with the stock configuration for a long time, it's setup for longevity and reliability. Ford didn't "maxmize" crap when the designed it, they designed it to last and provide as little warranty claims as possible, period.

Feeding a twin turbo engine thru a 2"x4" slit in the grill is like trying to drink your slurpee thru a stir stick, you can do it but you aren't finishing that slurpee any time soon, oh you might not get the cold headache, and you will finish it but me I'll take the big straw and wait for you at the finish line cause I'll be done first... Just my preference of course.

Here is some news from the folks at Livernois, Mustang GT (NA no less) which usually doesn't quite get the impact like a boosted car does from CAI picked up 10hp/12tq from a CAI install

check the graphs here, notice how much more power it makes especially as the rev's build and it really starts sucking the air in from 3500 on it makes significantly more power all the way to peak...

http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/...?gk=716&t=News

 

[SHODWN]

****, I know man...and I will try my hardest to get there, I have some things to discuss with you anyway.. Ill be making trips to NC quite a bit in the few months.

Phantom, I guess the best way for you to find out what works would be to see how many CFM the SHO uses at full boost, then test and see if the air box will flow what it needs.. Im pretty sure you will be surprised at what you see. I think it would be great if you would step up and figure all this out, instead of telling us what you read on the internet because it must be true if its on the internet! Right..

I can plumb a garbage can for you if that's really what you want.

Darell, I would be looking for a whole engine, not just the heads.. when you add more (LOTS) boost your going to need studs and maybe better gaskets at a minimum, it would be much easier for you and livernosis to have a spare to mock up all of this, before tearing into yours..

I also have the flanges now for catless pipes.. The first set I had to have Cnc'd and the cost floored me! so I have them and will be finding a laser cutter to make them.. the pipes too will have to be made from cut mandrell bends, as a crush bender cant make a few of the bends without really squashing the pipe.. eta is a month from when I get back from Chicago.. 8/16

And I would also suggest blowing up the livernois car first, make that one the test mule! They are the ones that will be selling the product..


ECOBRICK BOB, the hose I used was from believe it or not advanced. I assume that you dont have the radar in the bumper, pull ******* the grill there and it will pop off, you will see a air foil, its rubber and you need to chop a section out.

Autozone hose looks like dryer hose, its black and comes with a 3" rubber ring on the top. run it down below the airbox, along the frame rail where the trans lines are, (you will have to flatten it a bit) then reach under the bumper, through the grill hole (that you just pulled off) and have it grab the air that comes in there, zip tie it to the trans lines for stability. I left mine at the grill just flop around, I was going to tie it into that grill but never got to it.

if you have the air box.. you can cut a hole (below the filter) and insert it there, or if you have a cone filter you can build a cone around both, or even just lay it next to it.. it does direct some air into the engine bay, and that will help cool and more air that the cone in the engine bay is getting..

 

[bpd1151]

Phantom, I can plumb a garbage can for you if that's really what you want.....

:laugh_ti: bwahahaha..... Kirk, I am submitting that as the "quote of the month"

 

[thebigjimsho]

That's a pretty nice looking piece. I could see that making a bit of power, especially since they say it seals to the hood. Honestly the more surface you have to allow air into the car the better it's going to run, you really think trying to feed 2 turbos thru that tiny stock slit in the fender is as good as an open element filter? The more air that gets fed in and less restriction on the turbo's is going to decrease spool time (means they spin up faster), can pull more in (means it makes more power) at a higher velocity then that measly little 4" opening they have stock.

Many cars get huge benefits from an unrestricted intake, especially cars with a power adder. My Cobra made 365rwhp stock, I put a K&N CAI on and it made 392rwhp, that's almost 30hp to the wheels. Same day, never unstrapped from the dyno. Did a pull, installed the K&N and did another pull. The LS1 engines make 15-25rwhp with just putting a "lid" on it. Make no mistake intakes done right make power.

Another thing to many people over look is "where" the engine makes power. Everyone is obsessed with "peak" numbers they forget to look "under the curve" if you have 2 identical cars both making the same peak HP but one car makes 15HP more everywhere in the power band, that car is going to win. A good intake will help the car make power everywhere, not just peak. I've beaten plenty of cars that make 50 more peak HP power then my car, only because my car made more power for a longer period of time everywhere in the rev range.

Funny, the LS1 must have only been down on hp to the LS6 because of airflow. Because my LS6 made no extra power with an LPE intake and many of us LSA owners have seen negligible increases with an intake...and that's a S/C engine that needs "airflow".

CAI is great for sound. That's about it...

 

[BlueOval]

If you want a 20-40 hp boost in performance then spend $400.00 on a nitrous system and inject into the inter-cooler. At least your money will be well spent, and if done right no body, not even the factory, is going to know it was ever there...

The guys I work with can look at the plugs and tell if it's ever had a shot.

Back in the 70's when I was shooting the big block restricted Cup motors to keep up with the un-restricted small blocks the Champion spark plug rep at the tracks would give me a look that let me know he knew but he always kept it to himself.

 

[EcoBrick Bob]

ECOBRICK BOB, the hose I used was from believe it or not advanced. I assume that you dont have the radar in the bumper, pull ******* the grill there and it will pop off, you will see a air foil, its rubber and you need to chop a section out.

Autozone hose looks like dryer hose, its black and comes with a 3" rubber ring on the top. run it down below the airbox, along the frame rail where the trans lines are, (you will have to flatten it a bit) then reach under the bumper, through the grill hole (that you just pulled off) and have it grab the air that comes in there, zip tie it to the trans lines for stability. I left mine at the grill just flop around, I was going to tie it into that grill but never got to it.

if you have the air box.. you can cut a hole (below the filter) and insert it there, or if you have a cone filter you can build a cone around both, or even just lay it next to it.. it does direct some air into the engine bay, and that will help cool and more air that the cone in the engine bay is getting..

Will check out when it's cool. I get lots of air thru my Carriage works Grille.
Was going to build an air box around my round filter that would keep engine heat away and also catch air from grille opening. Sounds crazy, but a boat battery box might just be the ticket... But... may damage the "Fluff" factor if it's ugly!

Currently IAT temps are recovering with in 10 degrees of ambient temp in less than 20 seconds in stop and go driving. What I need is to keep them from rising as high as they do, even though they are never as high as with stock box.

Agree with your analysis of cu. ft. of air that can be ingested by turbos. I would think that small gains might still be possible by smoothing out turbo plumbing to make air flow better. Also obviously have to consider any extra boost in volume calculations.

Thanks for all your help!

 

[illSHOyou]

Never ceases to amaze that people who insist that opening up that tiny little inlet won't net you any gain at all and there couldn't possibly be any more HP on the table over the extremely "efficient" factory design and we all should never mod our cars because intakes and exhausts don't do anything.

Honestly while the turbo's will only flow so much if you don't even give them what they can properly flow in the first place they won't perform at there peak, they will only perform at what the factory "wants" them to perform which is inline with the everyday driver needs. The car is designed to run with the stock configuration for a long time, it's setup for longevity and reliability. Ford didn't "maxmize" crap when the designed it, they designed it to last and provide as little warranty claims as possible, period.

Feeding a twin turbo engine thru a 2"x4" slit in the grill is like trying to drink your slurpee thru a stir stick, you can do it but you aren't finishing that slurpee any time soon, oh you might not get the cold headache, and you will finish it but me I'll take the big straw and wait for you at the finish line cause I'll be done first... Just my preference of course.

Here is some news from the folks at Livernois, Mustang GT (NA no less) which usually doesn't quite get the impact like a boosted car does from CAI picked up 10hp/12tq from a CAI install

check the graphs here, notice how much more power it makes especially as the rev's build and it really starts sucking the air in from 3500 on it makes significantly more power all the way to peak...

http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/...?gk=716&t=News

How to build the "Airraid Cool Air Kit". Go to the Home Depot. Buy a large plastic box of nails. Throw the nails away and keep the plastic box. Buy some plastic angle and a rivot gun while your still at home depot. Then head to autozone and buy a cone air filter. You now have a "Airraid Cool Air Kit."

Total Cost= $80.00 Any Questions?

The turbo will only boost to its designed regulated boost level, so how does a improved intake track make the turbo boost more and create more hp?

 

[SHO U UP]

****, I know man...and I will try my hardest to get there, I have some things to discuss with you anyway.. Ill be making trips to NC quite a bit in the few months.

Sounds good. It'll probably in October from what I'm gathering. Kinda interested in the discussions we may have. And when I mentioned to Sam about me trying to get you guys from NE SHO to a Tidewater meet, Sam said he'd believe it when he saw it. :laugh_ti: Either way, I can make times available for you when you are passing through to NC.

 

[EcoBrick Bob]

How to build the "Airraid Cool Air Kit". Go to the Home Depot. Buy a large plastic box of nails. Throw the nails away and keep the plastic box. Buy some plastic angle and a rivot gun while your still at home depot. Then head to autozone and buy a cone air filter. You now have a "Airraid Cool Air Kit."

Total Cost= $80.00 Any Questions?

The turbo will only boost to its designed regulated boost level, so how does a improved intake track make the turbo boost more and create more hp?

Why didn't you sell the nails????