Ahh... These moments do try me...

[Guido]

As you may recall, after recieving a bunch of HEGO codes, I set out to replace both O2 sensors. Well, after three days, about five hours total lying on my back under the car, and half a can of B'Laster, I'm about ready to give up.

The front one went, as predicted by everyone, like a lamb to the slaughter; it took maybe 15 minutes. The rear one, as predicted by everyone, has become the bane of my existence. As it stands, the harness has been accidentally ripped off and I fear that the sensor itself is not only siezed in the manifold, but the bolt might very well be stripped.

I ache all over from being in such a prostrated postition and I'm sick of being under that car being eaten alive my mosquitos. What do I do? What are my options? I have to go to work tomorrow; is it okay to drive it with one sensor not installed?

I'm gonna get drunk now...

-***** (Abs ache so much, it hurts when he coughs...)

 

[Slo-Sho]

Are you having this much trouble with the removal tool? It costs $9.99 and makes the job a whole **** of alot easier. You can drive without it being connected, but your CE light will be on.

 

[Guido]

Per Scott's suggestion, I'm using a 10" extension, a U-joint, and a 22mm oxygen sensor removal socket. The little f***er is just siezed right up.

-***** (Not quite there yet...)

 

[luigisho]

Can you get a cheater bar on the ratchet for more leverage? If it won't move you may need to hit it with a torch or take it somewhere. Don't forget some anti-seize on the new ones.

 

[AnycarJohn]

*****,

Use all of the tools you have been using + a
good ole propane torch. Heat the pipe area ( not
the sensor ) when it's glowing red, put the
" bear " on it. It should come loose.

It's all about heat expansion.

John B.

 

[sdpatt]

As a note for those that haven't installed them, the Bosch sensors are supplied with the anti-seize already applied and protected by the plastic cap over the tip.

 

[91SHO]

The only thing that I did was let the car warm the ehaust by letting it run for about 5 to 10 mins. Both of them came right off. Done in about 20 mins.

 

[billh]

*****:
I ache all over from being in such a prostrated postition and I'm sick of being under that car being eaten alive my mosquitos. What do I do? What are my options? I have to go to work tomorrow; is it okay to drive it with one sensor not installed?

I'm gonna get drunk now...

-***** (Abs ache so much, it hurts when he coughs...)

Been there, done that! (I remember trying to install a top loader in my 427 Fairlane, alone, no floor jack and thought I was tough enough to do it without alignment pins... I wasn't. Just about the time I thought I had it aligned, the plug slipped out of the tailshaft and two quarts of 140W gear oil ran down my chin and neck. It took two weeks for the bruise on my chest from the drain plug to heal and the taste of gear oil to get out of my mouth.)
Anyway, it might be that the threads are damaged beyond any hope that the sensor will come out. You may have to resort to removing the pipe and having the sensor removed by a competent machine shop.
Good luck

(This must be what Kenny Rodgers was talking about when he sang "You got to know when to hold them, and know when to fold them." I think I'll leave OXY sensor replacement to my tech.) wink

 

[shojuan]

Now you've got an excuse to tell your wife you
need a replacement Oxygen sensor housing, the PP y-pipe. If you've got any lying around or if you've got a Home Despot nearby, SCH 40 PVC pipe makes great cheater pipe.

Rick

 

[naval-avi8or]

Not to poke you in the eye. I did mine about 2 months back, still had the OEM @ 140K, I used a 22mm wrench. Broke it loose and unscrewed it by the harness. You guys are makin this sound like a PIA. I guess I was lucky. GOOD LUCK!