Aftermarket Subwoofer Help - Again!

[JRA2000TL]

Pretty sure I've asked this a long time ago but still need some clarification. I replaced my blown stock sub in my 95 with a direct drop in 6" JL Audio subwoofer. I'm running a totally stock system otherwise (JBL). When I first connected the sub, it seemed to "bump" physically (i.e move or hit with the bass but I could not feel or tell that there was a sub installed by listening to the stereo). Tonight, I checked it and it's not "hitting". The whole time I've had the thing installed, it's as if I just removed the subwoofer totally. I heard something about the ohms being different on a stock vs. aftermarket sub.

Is there any way I can get this aftermarket JL sub to "hit" and hear/feel the bass like it's supposed to sound while leaving my stock deck in for cosmetic reasons? I paid a halfway decent amount for a direct drop in sub, but there's no deep bass from it.

Edit...I found my old post; folks recommended I get a new aftermarket amp. Ok...fine. Can I run the stock amp and make this work? If not, what's the cheapest/decent aftermarket amp that I can use to make this sub work as it should and can I make it work with the stock head unit and slave CD player? Yes I know I can buy a $75 Kenwood deck that's leaps and bounds better than the Ford unit and get a cheap Ebay amp and have tons better sound---but again, I want to keep the stock 95 decks if at all possible. The 89 has an aftermarket deck and I cannot find a decent 89 Ford premium deck that works; so I'm over it on that car. If I have to get an aftermarket amp, do I need a 2 channel or 4 channel? I'm clueless on audio. All I know is that on my 93 ATX I had in hs, I had a decent Kenwood deck, a small 225 max wattage amp, and 1 10" MTX blue thunder sub and it sounded perfect. I was totally happy with that set up...but I sold it years ago.

 

[dogstar]

By you are saying "hitting", is the sub working at all? Do you see any movement in the sub? My first guess is the sub is either mismatched with the box (ie: the sub would worked better with a bigger/smaller box) or your stock jbl amp is not working at all. Could also be a wiring issue going to your sub.
I used two dvc kicker subs on the stock amps for a while and it worked fine until I turned it up to loud and the amp will shut off because the ohm's was totally different than the amp will handle. Yours should still be "hitting' or moving if the ohm's was mismatched. You might have damaged the amp if you tried to make it work for to long.

 

[JRA2000TL]

When I first installed the aftermarket sub it did have movement as sound was played; now it doesn't. Even when it had movement, you could not tell there was a sub in the car. Ohms were probably mismatched and my factory amp is probably now blown. I picked up an aftermarket amp and a line out converter. Now I have the joy of trying to figure out how to install all of this setup.

 

[expy916]

Factory amp is for 4 ohm iirc

 

[john36801]

Best thing to do is throw out that POS 6" and get you 2 12" JL Audio W3's in a ported box with an Autotek 1000 watt amp. You will need to run a 4 gauge amp kit and a capacitor as you will likely burn up your altenator if you don't. I've done many Taurus' SHO's, GL's, and LX's in the second gen body style and this setup sounds great.

Senior Tech Mobile Audio Installer, Southern Soundz Car Stereo, Opelika, AL

 

[vortex2450]

Your stock amp is dead. Same thing happened to me when I installed an 8 ohm subwoofer in the stock box. Grab a decent aftermarket amp and you are golden. Ditch the stock JBL.

-Josh

BTW, the stock sub was 6 ohms.

 

[expy916]

Its 4 ohms. G1 had 2 8 ohm 6x9 "subs" and G2 was a single. My 94 had a Rockford Fosgate Punch 2 8" in the stock box and amp. Sounded good.

I like the way John thinks! Im starting another build on tuesday. 2 alpine type R 12's, dual 2 ohm vc. 3.2 cubic foot box. 37.5 square inches of port area. aiming for 38hz.

 

[SuperHO]

It also doesn't help that the factory box is horribly sealed and waaaaaaay too big for a 6w0. But in an answer to your question about keeping the stock 4 channel amp and stock head units....the key words here are "line out converters". That's how I'll be hooking up my amps in the 98.