AC Blowing Warm Air

[N3FOL]

Sunday morning...from Church...on my way home my A/C started to blow warm air on a hot summer day. I am not sure what is wrong. I have very little knowledge of the AC system on the 1995 SHO. Can anyone help? Any suggestions for a fix?

The problem on the AC came with no warning symptoms.

 

[ret]

most likely just low on refrigerant. Just head on over to wal-mart and pick up a refill kit. It's really simple to do.

 

[91 SHOplus]

Before you BUY anything, why not use the on-board diagnostic mode of the climate control? It's easy enough to do. Read on....

ELECTRONIC CLIMATE CONTROL - SELF DIAGNOSTIC TEST
The control assembly will detect electrical malfunctions occurring during the self test.
1. Make sure the coolant temperature is at least 120F (49C).
2. To display error codes, push the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then the AUTOMATIC button within 2 seconds. The test may run as long as 20 seconds, during which time the display will be blank. If the display is blank for more than 20 seconds, consult the No Error Code Found Diagnosis and Testing chart.
3. The Self Diagnostic Test can be initiated at any time with the resulting error codes being displayed. Normal operation of the system stops when the Self Diagnostic Test is activated. To exit the self test and restart the system, push the COOLER button. The self test should be deactivated before powering the system down.
ERROR CODE KEY
Code Condition
1. Replace control head
2. Blend door problem
3. In-car temp sensor open or short
4. Ambient temp sensor open or short
5. Sun load sensor short
6. 888 Test complete - no failures (all segments on)

 

[N3FOL]

ret,

Where exactly will the refill valve be located on a 1995 SHO? What kind of refrigerant should I buy?

 

[naval-avi8or]

N3FOL:
ret,

Where exactly will the refill valve be located on a 1995 SHO? What kind of refrigerant should I buy?

Well all the test will do for you is check the EACT for failures.

There are several things that can cause the ac clutch to disengage. The cycling switch located on the top of the ac acc./dryer. The Relay Control module located under the data placard above the radiator drivers side. The ac clutch and coil. I would be willing to say that your ac clutch has paid its dues and is now in need of replacment.

Several months back a memeber had taken the time to post a detailed troleshooting guide with pics. Try searching for it.

In general when your car stops cooling pop the hood and see if the clutch is disengaged. If so you can work either way by trobleshooting from the compressor towards the cycling switch or vice versa. You can use a volt meter to see if the clutch is getting 12 volts (this can be done by testing at the connector on the ac clutch/coil or teating the 4th wire from the front on the lower set of wires on the relay module.) If you have power there than you can take a small pokeing device like a broom handle and tap/stab the ac clutch with the car running and ac on max. If this causes the ac clutch to engage then the clutches air gap is to large due to wear. I.E. time to replace the clutch and coil.

 

[hooterville]

same thing happened to me, and it wasn't the refrigerant. Your best bet is to go to a licensed professional. It will cost $60 but it will save you in the long run.

----
If you insist on doing it yourself, pick up an Interdynamics R-134a Recharge and Measuring Kit. And a can on R-134a for $4.99. This kit IS the best and it includes a guage to measure the pressure. The whole package costs about $20 from Autozone, or most major Auto Parts retailers. The other "recharge" kits that I have purchased have either failed or leaked through the connection.

----
The low pressure line is where you need to recharge it and it is at the top of the firewall underneath the plastic housing perpendicular to the serpentine belt. It has a black dust cap that screws off. Test the pressure and if it is low, you need a recharge, if not; open your wallet thumbs_u

 

[ret]

N3FOL:
ret,

Where exactly will the refill valve be located on a 1995 SHO? What kind of refrigerant should I buy?

These other guys know more than I, so if they say to do something else first, I'd do it. Anyway, the valve is easy to find. It's up along the firewall on the passenger side of the car. Should be the only thing the connector that comes with the kit will fit on. It may be covered by a small plastic cap.

 

[N3FOL]

I found out that my compressor is not acting right. At this point, I will seek professional help for the replacement on my compressor.

My appointment at a local Ford service dept. is this Friday. I hope to get a descent warranty on the compressor. They also stated that they can fix the problem on the same day.

I will keep all of you posted on the findings and development. Thanks for all the response.

 

[tnSHOtime]

91 SHOplus - I have basically the same problem with my '93 ATX - I followed the diagnostic instructions you posted and got an error code 3 - In car temp sensor open or short - according to your cheat sheet - seems only to be a problem in stop and go traffic - A/C blew very cold on about a 500 mile trip over the weekend. What does this mean, and how do I fix it?

 

[N3FOL]

Update on my AC system;

I had my AC system checked yesterday at a local Ford dealership and they stated that it was a clutch and pulley problem. At first, they were going to rebuild the compressor to find out whether it is still good or bad. It turned out to be in my favor. I did not realize how expensive a compressor would cost, but I'm glad that my old one was still good.

It took the AC mechanic half a day to fix the problem. On top of all that, new refrigerant was put in the system and it is now blowing COLD air. Definitely much cold air than before. Total repair cost was $972.69. Considering that a new compressor will be around the 1300-1500 dollar range, I was glad that I took this problem to a professional instead of tackling it myself.
AC systems is not my forte.

 

[rangerj]

N3FOL,
Would you please post a breakdown of the parts replaced, the cost of the parts, and the amount of labor in dollars and hours. If the amount of labor is broken down for each service, it would also be informative.
I am requesting this information so that forum members, who do not do their own work, will have an idea about what this kind of work costs. It will also serve as a reminder to those who do their own work, how much they are saving.
I just replaced a complete clutch assembly, that is the clutch coil, pulley and bearing, and the clutch face, and put on a new belt, for a friend, at a total cost of just under $300. This would be the retail (list) price of the parts.
For those of you out there who are intimidated by A/C systems, this information may give you the incentive to learn. It is not all that difficult, and requires a few inexpensive tools, such as a manifold and guage set at about $100, a $75 vacuum pump from J.C.Whitney (assuming you have an air compressor or access to one), and a few other inexpensive tools. The mechanics are very simple, i.e. nuts and bolts, snap rings, and gaskets. Thanks for the information you posted so far. rangerj

 

[naval-avi8or]

N3FOL:
Update on my AC system;

I had my AC system checked yesterday at a local Ford dealership and they stated that it was a clutch and pulley problem.

It took the AC mechanic half a day to fix the problem. Total repair cost was $972.69. Considering that a new compressor will be around the 1300-1500 dollar range, I was glad that I took this problem to a professional instead of tackling it myself.
AC systems is not my forte.

I'm glad you got it fixed. FWIW~As I mentioned in my post above I did all the same, except for the new freon which you may or may have not needed, and counting the snap ring plyer set and parts I spent 120.00 to fix the same problem. It takes one or times of getting ***** by Ford and someone else letting you know how bad Ford did you before you relize it. I'm know Ford mechanic and I spent several hours scratchen my head , a tool run and I only spent 5-6 hours changing the clutch and coil.

You can also get the compressor W/clutch at autozone or napa for 200-250.

<small>[ August 10, 2002, 12:19 PM: Message edited by: naval-avi8or ]</small>

 

[rangerj]

NAVaL-AVI8OR,
Until we know what was replaced, how long it took, and what was charged, it is premature to assume that this was a screw-job by the Ford dealership.

Most dealerships have their mechanics on the "flat-rate" system. The mechanic is paid the "flat-rate", that is the number of hours that the flat-rate book says a specific job should take. If the mechanic is slow and takes longer than the book allows, too bad, he gets paid the "flat-rate".

If the mechanic knows a few short cuts, he can do two 5 hour jobs in an eight hour day, and get paid for 10 hours. The short cuts the mechanic takes are usually detrimental to the customer.

For example, the recommended procedure for replaceing the camshaft in another brands 4 cylinder engine, is to pull the motor and trans as a unit. It did not take long for the "Flat-rate" mechanics to figure out that they could drop the trans end, raise the front of the engine, and slide the camshaft out over the right front fender.

The problem with this is that the motor mounts were stressed and weakened. The bad motor mounts would not show up until six months to a year later. Guess who pays for the new motor mounts?

While I agree with you, that the amount paid seems high, I will withhold judgement until I know what was replaced, what labor was performed, and how much was charged for labor and materials. rangerj

 

[N3FOL]

rangerj:

I will post a list of parts replaced and cost on this forum as soon as I get home. I do not have the receipt with me at the present time.

I will keep in touch.