a few questions from new showner.

[pete c]

well, I bought the 93 5 spd I was asking about yesterday. I do have a few questions. It has been sitting for about 2 years, so new plugs, filters, fluids are definitely in order. Any other recommendations for a car that has sat this long would be appreciated.

It also needs rear brakes. It has started to grind a little. Hopefully the rotors are salvagable. Can a DIYer replace pads without special equipment. I have heard that some ABS systems can be screwed up by a hack pressing the piston back with a c-clamp. Is this so with my car?

One more thing. I have a pop-up camper, weighs around 1500 lbs, maybe a ton after I get done stuffing $hite into it. Can I tow it? Would an aftermarket engine/tranny oil cooler be a good idea for this duty? When I towed the camper with my 89 wagon (with the POS 3.8) and the tranny fluid leaked around the pan seal. I guess it boiled out.

 

[jthomas68]

Yup,me again

The brakes are a simple DIYer.he fronts are pretty straight forward,just like you are used to.The rear float on slider pins(two one each caliper,inside the black boots)that sometimes freeze up.The piston on the rears can`t be pressed in by a C clamp.It needs to be turned in with the Ford caliper tool.The small $3 universal cube from any parts store will work with a little filing job,you`ll see what i mean.

As for the trailer,you should be fine,but i`ll let Spatt field this one since he pulls his boat.

<small>[ June 15, 2002, 09:12 AM: Message edited by: jthomas68 ]</small>

 

[pete c]

small $3 universal cube? WTF are you talking about. I am clueless. I do remember now the first time I tried to do the rears on my old 79 supra. Bent the dogshite out of a big ole c-clamp before I finally asked for destructions on how to do it right!!!

thanks

pete

 

[fredhurderjr]

Hit Autozone and ask for / rent the brake caliper tool kit - it'll have the piece JT is talking about. Since the kit I rented was still in the shrinkwrap, I never returned it, buying it outright.

DO NOT use a C-clamp on the rear calipers, they need to be screwed open with the tool. Welcome to the SHO Community!

 

[sdpatt]

Please use the Motorcraft AGSP32PP plugs for your SHO. These are the original equipment and the only plug designed exclusively for the V6 SHO. They available at $3.99 each through FordPartsNetwork.com.

Since the brake question has been addressed, you will probably need the caliper pin repair kit that contains the slider pins, boots, bolts and lubricant to take care of one caliper. Two of these Motorcraft E7SZ-2B296-A kits will set you back about $40 and take care of both rear calipers. You can also buy the rear caliper tool that fits on a socket wrench for about $5 at auto parts stores to turn the piston back in. Whatever you do, don't try to press the piston back in. You will damage the parking brake mechanism behind the piston and require new calipers.

On the rear brakes on my 1991, I have installed the Albany MKD545 semi-metallic pads available from AutoZone for $20 with a lifetime warranty. If you need new rotors you can shop around. You should be able to find them at a local auto parts store for around $20 each.

As far as the trailer towing, the SHO has an engine oil cooler and a power steering fluid cooler. Since the transmission is a manual, there is not much heat generated inside even under heavy load. The poor automatic in your old SLO didn't have a chance against a trailer load due to its fluid coupling and insufficient design. I have been towing the boat in the picture below for all of my car's 11 years and quite a few of its 260,800 miles. In fact, I just towed the boat to the lake today to introduce my 17.5 month old daughter to the wonders of boating. All went well.

While the car with the boat hitched on the back was parked in front of my house before departing, a man in a Chevy S-10 Blazer stopped and said through his open window, "You're going to tow that boat with THAT?" I wiped the smile from his face when I returned with, "It's been doing it for 11 years and 260,000 miles." This is MY sports utility vehicle!

 

[pete c]

looks like I will go with the autocrap plugs. The engine is bone stock, and after years of SLO ownership, plenty quick. No laughin' gas for now!

Some one mentioned the timing belt on the other thread. The car did get it's 60k factory service. Should the t-belt have been part of it? I forgot to ask the former owner like a bonehead. I will check the paperwork today. Also, is this a "collision", (I think that's the term) valve train? In otherword, when the timing belt let's go at 6 grand, do the valves and piston get in a fight? If so, I will do a timing belt yesterday! Is the timing belt a DIY job for the semi-competent shade tree hack uhhh I mean mechanic?

 

[pete c]

yet another question.

valve adjustment. How tough is it to adjust them? My CB750F has the same set-up and my mechanic, who is more than happy to help me with DIY advice since he is so damn good and swamped with work all the time said, fagettaboudit. The money you spend buying different sized shims isn't worth the money you'll save in labor. What say you folks? How often do the shims actually need changing?

Premium gas? The gas gauge says premium recommended. Does this mean that it will knock on the cheap stuff? Or does it just mean that it will run better 'cause that clever little computer will advance the timing a tick or two with premium, thereby increasing performance/economy. Either way, I guess my cheap **** needs to get used to buying hi-test.

 

[pete c]

yet another one.

plug changing on the rear bank. Looks like fun. Is it as much a PIA as it looks? Any tricks/tools to make it easier? Makes me appreciate my d-150 with the slant six more and more.

 

[projectSHO89]

The SHO engine is 'non-interference'. It won't damage the valves if the timing belt breaks. It is replaceable by a shadetree mechanic who doesn't mid loosing some skin off the ol' knuckles.

Many procedures are covered at the FAQs at www.shotimes.com.

Valve shim sets are available for rental. You would probably need to buy your own tools or find another SHO owner who has them to let you use his. The Mark Nunnally 60K $20 video from www.shonutperformance.com is highly recommended.

If you run regular gas, the anti-knock sensor will tell the EEC-IV to retard timing until it goes away. You will probably never hear the knock, but the engine will never put out to its full potential, either.

Plugs in the rear can be replaced with some extensions, U-joints, and some creative cussing. Some people just pull the intake off and clean it at the same time.

BTW, a gentle suggestion is to use the '"SEARCH" feature by clicking on its button and seeing if your topic has been covered before.

Steve

<small>[ June 16, 2002, 09:13 AM: Message edited by: projectSHO89 ]</small>

 

[PhysicsSHO]

Yeah, like a stinkin' S-10 is something to write home about for towing.

2.2L 4 cylinder with RWD and no weight in the bed. 3000ish lbs towing capacity. ****, Scott's exceeding that daily.

 

[Markus]

PhysicsSHO:
Yeah, like a stinkin' S-10 is something to write home about for towing.

2.2L 4 cylinder with RWD and no weight in the bed. 3000ish lbs towing capacity. ****, Scott's exceeding that daily.

...And your point is ? ...

Mark

 

[ShoMotion93]

squint Yeah...what Mark said..

 

[sdpatt]

I'm quite sure it was an S-10 Blazer with the V6 engine. The driver was a garage sale vulture circling through my neighborhood. And I can still outpull his hitch.

Scott