a few clutch replacement questions

[greengiant]

is a valeo clutch the best way to go? my car has 142K should i have the flywheel resurfaced or just get a performance one off ebay, is it worth it? if it gets resurfaced how much does it usually go for. 1994 mtx

 

[shobote]

Depends on what if any power mod's you have and if it is a DD; if mostly stock, I would stay with the stock flywheel and get an upgraded clutch with HD pp like southbend from SHOsource for just a bit more than a stock one.

 

[SHOmethewayhome]

is a valeo clutch the best way to go? my car has 142K should i have the flywheel resurfaced or just get a performance one off ebay, is it worth it? if it gets resurfaced how much does it usually go for. 1994 mtx

if your car has 142K and is pretty much stock (no F/I mods, crazy cams or high compression) i'd say get a valeo clutch and just take your flywheel to Napa and get it cleaned up.

resurfacing a flywheel shouldn't cost more than 30bucks, and they can usually do it in about 30minutes at the longest. depending on if you are lucky enough to have a lift available (like I was) and one or two SHO knowledgeable people around (like I did) give yourself 2-4 hours to get the flywheel out of the car, depending on what you run into on the way to taking the transmission out.

If i were you i'd put an ad in the WTB section of the forum for another flywheel or try sourcing a stock one from a junk yard. if you plan on keeping the car it seems a lot easier to just keep a second one to have surfaced before you tear into the car so you don't have to stop and take the one in the car to the shop, if you waffle the clutch like I seem to have a knack for doing in my car. I'm on the 3rd clutch since purchase. unknown mileage on the first before i got it, but about 12,000 by my driving, less than 6,000 on a CM1, and just over 3,000 on a Valeo with New TOB, and resurfaced stock flywheel sourced from OffroadSHO.

just my .02

 

[greengiant]

the car currently has exhaust and thats it as far as i know because i got it recently

 

[93rev2sev]

I'm with SHOMETHEWAYHOME.

Stock valeo, refinish your flywheel...or get a flywheel and have it finished and ready to go when you need it. Machining should be about $30.

 

[Ocnaj]

Are you planning on adding more bolt-ons to the car? I would go with a stage 1 or 2 clutch if you ever decide to add more power down the road.

 

[Shoaz]

Stock clutch FTW!!

FWIW, Valeo is pretty much the only manufacturer of pressure plates for the SHO (other than the too-small stamped steel units that nobody uses). Aftermarket kits tend to just repackage or slightly modify the Valeo PP. So, as far as the PP is concerned, it's going to be a Valeo.

The main thing after that is to decide what disk and TOB you want. Stock disks are fine for the vast majority of people out there. The high-boost forced induction guys may need more, but other than that it's more a "want" vs "need" thing. The SHOnut TOBs are recommendable because they're a bit less likely to eat the PP fingers than a stock unit, but that's not a total necessity, either.

Using stock pieces is totally worthwhile, IMHO, with the possible exception of the TOB. Even then, the stock TOB is okay as long as you have the Rev A and a quill sleeve (which is usually the case over the last ten years).

 

[itwonder]

I put a Valeo clutch in mine. Now I'm wondering. The PP worries me. There are no new PP's available. I wonder where these Valeo PP's are being rebuilt, and to what quality level. If I had to do it over again, I might would buy a kit from Southbend.

I upgraded to the ceramic TOB from shonutperformance, and if you are going to keep the car for a long time that is a good investment.

 

[93rev2sev]

70,000 on my stock Valeo and going strong.

 

[AREA 91]

Rock out with your stock out!:laugh_ti:

A stock clutch is just fine for your application.

If it was me, I would buy a ceramic TOB and Teflon fork bushings from SHO NUT. You won't regret it.

 

[1993MTXSHO]

There's a nice stage 1 clutch (shoshop jr high revs) for sale for 75 bucks with an upgraded disk for 75 bucks in the parts section. It's under sold SR72 or something I forget the exact title.

 

[Storm-Chaser]

I agree with SHOmethewayhome and shoaz and AREA 91, and will add one thing.

CHANGE the rear main seal. Doing so requires pulling the transmission. A few may also recommend changing the carrier plate gasket, but unless there are signs that it is leaking (near the oil pan) leave the carrier plate alone.

If you elect to change the carrier plate gasket, you must drop the oil pan and re-seal the oil pan lip seal below the carrier plate. Otherwise you risk creating an oil leak along where it mates to the oil pan.