A/C Need Help Quick!

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SHOTerror

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I have me '90 in the shop getting some work done and I am having them check out the A/C. Well they checked pressure and it was low so they filled it up and still no go. Now they are saying there is no power to the compressor and they think it is a control issue and isn't worth it. What should I do?
 

89 Gary

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If you're going to need a bunch of parts for the fix I would recommend you do the "conversion thing". I did it a few years ago and it cost me @ $1000 but I needed a compressor also. :( Type in-------Ford Retrofit Kits-------and then hit search.Heading definitions for lettered columns Your 90 will need
A = Condenser

F = Air Deflectors

J = Discharge Hose

L = Miscellaneous:
Cycling Pressure Switch (CPS), CPS adapter, Refrigerant Containment Switch (RCS), RCS wiring, RCS adapter, service port adapters, PAG oil, and retrofit label.
M = Flushing Procedures 1989-91 3.0L
SHO~~kit~~~ F1DZ-C $253.33, 2.2(man hours labor)

<small>[ February 26, 2003, 07:56 PM: Message edited by: 89 Gary ]</small>
 

rangerj

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SHOTERROR,

Did anybody test the low pressure switch? You can jumper the connector at the low pressure switch to get power to the A/C coil. You can also apply 12 volts to the coil directly to see if it engages the clutch.

The coil is an electromagnet and when activated the magnet draws in the clutch face to the pulley.

If the clutch coil is not working, check the gap between the face and the pulley. It should be about .035inch (35 thousanths). If it is near that and will not engage then the coil is defective.

You can replace the coil without losing any refrigerant. If the coil works when the connector is jumpered, then the low pressure switch is defective.

It is also possible that there is a problem in the control switch, but you first need to determine if the coil is working, then the low pressure switch, etc. Check the wires in the A/c system for continuity.

For example, if you can get the coil to work with direct battery voltage, check the wires from the low pressure switch for corroded connections and continuity.

You will need to refer to a shop manual of some sort for the wiring diagrams, such as Helms, Mitchels, Motors, Haynes, etc. Try the local library in the reference section if you do not have one.

From what you posted about the garage, I would not let them work on it. Once you figure out what is wrong, and what it could cost to fix, then you can find someone competent to work on it. rangerj
 

SHOTerror

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They seemed to know about the switch since they explained most likely it needed freon because when its low the switch disengages. I know where the clutch is but I do not know where this coil pack you are talking about is located. And how do I measure the gap in the clutch? Once I remove it should I just take out one of the shims and throw it back on and see if it works?
 

SHOTerror

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Just picked up my car. The thing is running awsome just need to get this A/C fixed. They said that they checked the pressure switch everything is fine there is just no power getting to the compressor. What else could it be?
 

rangerj

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SHOTERROR,

First of all, (electrical)power does not go to the compressor, it goes to the clutch coil. I'm sure that is what "they" meant.

There is a wire connector that snaps into the clutch coil. If you can remove it you can test it with a volt meter for battery voltage. Test the battery for its voltage first. You should get between 12 and 14 volts.

Then test the connector (one probe for each wire) with the key in the on position, the A/C in the on position, but the engine NOT running. The voltage should be battery voltage.(approximately).

If not, that is no power, then disconnect the low pressure switch connector and probe it for battery voltage (one probe for each wire).

The idea is to work your way back to the A/C on/off switch untill you find out where the "power" is being interrupted by a bad switch, connector, or wire, fuse, or relay.

Before you start all this check the fuses and relays.

If I understand you correctly "they" added enough refrigerant to give the system enough pressure to "turn on" the low pressure switch. Is that correct?

If you do not have a service manual you will have to go to the library and look up the wiring diagrams for your 90 SHOs A/C system. Look up the A/C system and identify the components and their locations.

The A/C section should also have a troubleshooting section, or diagnostics section, to give you some guidelines for finding the cause of the failure. rangerj
 

SHOTerror

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Sorry for being vague. What they did was they charged the system up to normal pressure for the compressor. From there they tried to figure out why there was no power to the coil. They checked the pressure switch and im sure the main feed. I have the regular taurus Haynes automotive repair manual will this work?
 

rangerj

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SHOTERROR,

Yes the Haynes manual should work if it has an A/C section. I do not recall seeing an electrical wiring section in the Haynes manual. If if does not have the wiring diagrams the library is your best bet. Look for Chiltons, Helms, Motors, or Mitchels manuals.

Look up the test for the A/C controls in the dash. But first check the fuse for the A/C section, and any relays in the A/C harness.

I'll look in my Helms wiring diagrams to see if I can be more specific and helpful. It has been about five months since I have had to look at an A/C system. I have 2 to 3 feet of snow piled up on both side of my drive!

In the interem start learning about the A/C components and how the system operates, including the climate control system "controls". rangerj
 

SHOTerror

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They said they found a fuse that was bad and replaced but still no go.. It does not seem to have a diagram of the A/C system but how many fuses are there in the system? Was this fuse most likely located in the engine bay or in the fuse terminal by steering wheel?
 

rangerj

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Shoterror,

Nook has hooked you up bigtime.

Nook, that is an outstanding piece of work on the A/C electrical diagnostics. They say a picture is worth a thousand words, well your series is worth a million. Thanks thumbs_u rangerj

PS I downloaded it for future referrence.
 

89 Gary

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Originally posted by Tony Faye:
[QB] If that doesn't work, come down to my place, and I will cut the entire system out with a hacksaw. (I'll let you do some too)

That is funny my friend!!!!!!!!1
 

SHOTerror

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I pulled fuse number 17, it was shot, replaced it with the spare fuses under the fuse cover. The compressor is now kicking on :) . The air is cold but the only problem I am having is that sometimes it will blow out the front vents and others it will blow out the defrosting vents, any ideas?
 

rangerj

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Shoterror,

You mean to tell us that the "professionals" who worked on your car could not find a blown fuse?

HELLO! "Mechanics"? Bovine excrement!

Your directional doors in you ventilation system are not fuctioning correctly. As to why they are flip floping between defrost and panel air outlets is the problem you need to solve.

Read up on how the system operates, then do the troubleshooting to find out what is not operating properly. How are the doors controlled? Are they vacuum operated, or electrically controlled?

Sorry I cannot be more specific, but I'm away from my referrence materials. The more YOU learn about your car and its systems, the easier it gets to fix them.

Think about it. You could have been charged several hundred dollars for someone to replace a $1 fuse! rangerj
 
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