95 ATX EEC Code 332, clogged or bad EGR?

[kumba]

I ran a KOEO and KOER test and both throw 332. It's the only code the engine throws, giving me a check engine light. Never had this problem until I replaced the thermostat. I guess because it never got hot enough to be used. Idle is decent although a little rougher then what it should probably be. Power is good and it pulls hard up to the rev limiter. Get 15-16 or so MPG.

So my question is the orifice tubes for the EGR just clogged? Or should I save my time and just replace the valve? In addition to turning off the check engine light if I can get another 1-2 MPG out of fixing it I'm all for it. Just want to make sure I'm not chasing the wrong thing.

 

[projectSHO89]

It is usually either a bad DPFE sensor or clogged EGR passages in the intake.

Verify the integrity of the vacuum line connected to the EGR valve.

Using a short length of vacuum hose or a shop vacuum pump, give the EGR valve a "suck test" with the engine at idle. A good valve with clear ports will cause the engine to stumble of die. If there is little to no change in engine idle speed, the ports are likely clogged.

EGR valves rarely fail. EGR ports eventually clog.

There are numerous threads and posts regarding how to clear the ports. You should be able to dig up a few of them with a few minutes of poking around.

 

[FOMOCOTOSHO]

I've done everything under the sun to get rid of this code on my '95 ATX and I finally gave up and pulled the damn bulb that lights up the check engine light on the cluster. I have a brand new EGR Valve & tube that has been cleaned out, brand new DPFE Sensor & EGR sensor, brand new DPFE silicone hoses, and a new ECU...... Still can't get rid of the code. I gave up

 

[jmpSHO]

I've done everything under the sun to get rid of this code on my '95 ATX and I finally gave up and pulled the damn bulb that lights up the check engine light on the cluster. I have a brand new EGR Valve & tube that has been cleaned out, brand new DPFE Sensor & EGR sensor, brand new DPFE silicone hoses, and a new ECU...... Still can't get rid of the code. I gave up

I had the same problem on my 95 ATX until I found a short in one of the wires that connect to the DPFE.

 

[FOMOCOTOSHO]

I had the same problem on my 95 ATX until I found a short in one of the wires that connect to the DPFE.

Thanks for the info. So what did you do, just run new wires from the DPFE to the computer?

 

[jmpSHO]

Thanks for the info. So what did you do, just run new wires from the DPFE to the computer?

I connected a jumper wire to one wire at time and drove the car for a bit to see which wire was the problem. Once I found the wire with the short I ran a new wire from the DPFE to the PCM.

 

[jayhoyt28]

I've done everything under the sun to get rid of this code on my '95 ATX and I finally gave up and pulled the damn bulb that lights up the check engine light on the cluster. I have a brand new EGR Valve & tube that has been cleaned out, brand new DPFE Sensor & EGR sensor, brand new DPFE silicone hoses, and a new ECU...... Still can't get rid of the code. I gave up

If i'm not mistaken once you pull that bulb the car runs in fail-safe mode.

 

[projectSHO89]

If i'm not mistaken once you pull that bulb the car runs in fail-safe mode.

You are mistaken.

 

[projectSHO89]

I've done everything under the sun to get rid of this code on my '95 ATX ....

Everything except to follow the diagnostic procedure ...

 

[FOMOCOTOSHO]

Everything except to follow the diagnostic procedure ...

Actually I have followed the diagnostic procedure. I've had 4 Ford technicians diagnose this problem at my shop & @ a Ford dealership and no one has been able to fix it. I've done the manual vacuum test and everything. So don't assume someone hasn't done something until you know what you're talking about a**shole

 

[FOMOCOTOSHO]

If i'm not mistaken once you pull that bulb the car runs in fail-safe mode.

Is this true? Does anyone know if this is accurate? I've been having some other troubles with tuner chips etc but I can't remember the timing of when that started in relation to my pulling out the bulb for the check engine light. Anyone?

 

[jmpSHO]

Is this true? Does anyone know if this is accurate? I've been having some other troubles with tuner chips etc but I can't remember the timing of when that started in relation to my pulling out the bulb for the check engine light. Anyone?

I suppose this could be true however I never heard of it before.

 

[celticsam]

Been here. Replaced the DPFE (several times) and the valve itself. The final fix was to spray down each of the 2 EGR tubes (that go to the DPFE) with a carbon cleaner. Let it sit overnight. Spray again, then take an old speedo cable in a variable speed drill. Measure the length of the tubes, and go a mm or 2 further down each tube. Takes about 5 minutes, and I'm going on a year with no codes.

Neil

 

[projectSHO89]

Been here. Replaced the DPFE (several times) and the valve itself. The final fix was to spray down each of the 2 EGR tubes (that go to the DPFE) with a carbon cleaner. Let it sit overnight. Spray again, then take an old speedo cable in a variable speed drill. Measure the length of the tubes, and go a mm or 2 further down each tube. Takes about 5 minutes, and I'm going on a year with no codes.

Neil

One of the tubes is supposed to have a restriction in it. That's what creates the differential in pressure for the DPFE sensor during EGR flow. If you inadvertently open up the diameter of that orifice, you will never be able to get EGR to meter properly. Exercise caution!

Is this true? Does anyone know if this is accurate? I've been having some other troubles with tuner chips etc

Se above. I'v already eanswered that question.

If you are using any type of "chip" or "tuner", remove it while troubleshooting and restore the system to factory baseline.