'94 MTX Clutch ???

[JoeDirt]

Hi guys, back into the SHO game again... Had a '92 MTX, a '93 ATX, and now I sold my 2003 Explorer to make my life less expensive (and more fun) and buy a '94 MTX. My question is, I didn't have my '92 long enough to worry about a clutch, and this '94 seems like I need to push it to the floor to shift into first, and I can let the clutch out 3/4 to 1" and the car starts moving. Once it's moving, I don't have to push it in that far to to run through the gears. Is there any clutch quadrant adjustment on the SHO like there is on my Mustang? Could the cable be stretched, or is my clutch just shot? I have $1,000 to spend on either a clutch job or a water pump replacement. Suggestions? I know that if the water pump goes, it won't matter whether my clutch is good or not...! I don't want to **** the flywheel, though.

How can I test the clutch to see if it's worn to the point that it needs to be replaced?

I'm not sure what mileage is on the clutch. The car has 103,000 on it, and a lady owned owned it since '96. So, I know it wasn't abused, but she could have rode the clutch, I don't know...

Does anyone know a good SHO mechanic in the West Michigan area?

TIA,

JD

 

[sdpatt]

To check or set the tension in the clutch cable, lift the clutch pedal with about 10 pounds of force. If you hear any clicks from the pedal quadrant pawl moving you have retensioned the cable. If this doesn't help the low engagement point, you may be looking at worn throwout bearing and pressure plate fingers. Only replacing them with new components will correct that situation.

If the clutch slips, either the friction disk is worn or the pressure plate spring load had reduced to the point of being ineffective. Either would need replacment to resolve.

 

[JoeDirt]

I'll try that tonight...

Thanks for the help!

 

[B Fa SHO]

You DEFINITELY know your clutch is gone when you're cruising and you try to accelerate but all you get is revs. Also when you have significant problems shifting through the gears, i.e. more than usual force necessary and what you described, of having to put the pedel to the floor if what sdpatt suggested doesn't work.
~BW~

<small>[ November 06, 2003, 12:49 PM: Message edited by: B Fa SHO ]</small>

 

[Bizzy]

JoeDirt
[QB] How can I test the clutch to see if it's worn to the point that it needs to be replaced?

Set the parking brake, put the car in 5th gear, slowly let the clutch out while parked. If the car stalls clutch has some life in it, if it doesn't...it's clutch time. This is an unorthodox method, but it will give you a pretty good indication of your clutch's status. You can't see the clutch when it's installed in the car so you have to depend on tests such as these.

Also, when driving, when you are heavy on the throttle say in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gears, does the tach rise at first and the car not go any faster?

this '94 seems like I need to push it to the floor to shift into first, and I can let the clutch out 3/4 to 1" and the car starts moving. Once it's moving, I don't have to push it in that far to to run through the gears.

Sounds like the clutch is on its way out to me. While you should push the pedal to the floor to change into any gear, when the clutch engages when you let off the pedal is what you need to pay attention to. To my understanding, and as a general rule, if it engages right off the floor the PP is going bad, closer to the top of pedal travel is the disk itself. Either way, the clutch should engage at about the middle.

I know that if the water pump goes, it won't matter whether my clutch is good or not...! I don't want to **** the flywheel, though.

Water pumps from Rockauto or NAPA are cheap. Does it sound like it's going bad? With $1000 you can get your clutch and water pump done, including parts.

When installing a clutch, you'll need to get your flywheel resurfaced. And don't forget the TOB & quill. Shoot Chris Smith (Huntervf) an email, he'll know good shops over there for the work that you need.