KyngofPop
Freday-day
You should at least have power to the starter. That’s a simple battery to starter connection if I remember correctly...hmm. That’s how I’ve always done it. Idk...
91+ rebuild
- Thread starter blk\blk90
- Start date
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You should at least have power to the starter. That’s a simple battery to starter connection if I remember correctly...hmm. That’s how I’ve always done it. Idk...
Jesse Menck
SHO Member
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2015
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The starter goes directly to your battery you either have a dead battery or a bad solenoid. Or I suppose a bad ignition Take something thick and steel with a handle and short out the solenoid posts.
Jesse Menck
SHO Member
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2015
- Messages
- 163
- Reaction score
- 23
If it doesn’t crank you need a starter or check battery voltage
I ended up working on this damn thing till about 2am again. Started at about noon. Whoever the ****** at yamaha who designed the belt tensioner can go straight to the deepest depths of ****. The cam sensor isn't hard to replace one you have the intake and timing cover removed. Judging from how dirty the top of the sensor and heads were I'm betting my cam seals are ok. But damn, that whole engine is COVERED in oil. Whoever had this car before me is an ******* and doesnt deserve to own a vehicle. Period. On the bright side, I found out it already has SFCs, and an after market y-pipe and cat back. So that's good. I will need to take it to an exhaust shop. Its busted at the pipe resonator joint. On to the pics:
Some more ghetto shot. Can I fix this? New crank sensor I guess?
Oil on everything.
Aftermarket y-pipe. Any idea what brand? You can see the busted weld at the resonator too. Also, SFCs are seen here too.
#1 tdc
I tried. But it was a no go.
Some more ghetto shot. Can I fix this? New crank sensor I guess?
Oil on everything.
Aftermarket y-pipe. Any idea what brand? You can see the busted weld at the resonator too. Also, SFCs are seen here too.
#1 tdc
I tried. But it was a no go.
At this point I said screw it. I'm gonna do the upper end and hit the crank sensor and water pump later. The plug wires I got from rockauto were wrong. Nice. Guess I'll get to do that later too.
Old cam sensor next to new.
Cam sensor location.
Another shot of cam sensor.
Plug wells cleaned out and ready.
Plugs in, intake gasket ready, valve covers ready.
Kinda blurry. Camera was fogging up. It was starting to get cold. Rear VC on.
Front on and old plug wires reused.
Everything back together.
This was all over the back of the back head. What is it?
The aftermath.
At this point it was about 2am. I'm gonna buy the intake back on today. Well, I'm gonna take that jaw puller back and see if maybe they have a plug wire set there. And get some coolant. And do the fuel filter. And oil change. And a new battery. THEN I'm gonna hopefully fire it up and drive off into the sunset!
Old cam sensor next to new.
Cam sensor location.
Another shot of cam sensor.
Plug wells cleaned out and ready.
Plugs in, intake gasket ready, valve covers ready.
Kinda blurry. Camera was fogging up. It was starting to get cold. Rear VC on.
Front on and old plug wires reused.
Everything back together.
This was all over the back of the back head. What is it?
The aftermath.
At this point it was about 2am. I'm gonna buy the intake back on today. Well, I'm gonna take that jaw puller back and see if maybe they have a plug wire set there. And get some coolant. And do the fuel filter. And oil change. And a new battery. THEN I'm gonna hopefully fire it up and drive off into the sunset!
As for the CPS, Snip both ends and add bullet connectors or similar. That's what I had to do with my 89 when that connector fell apart.
Getting the crank bolt loose. Have someone sit in the car with it in gear and their foot on the brake. Use a long pipe or a breaker bar from the top and it will pop loose. When I torque my crank bolt I have the car all reassembled and sitting on the ground and get at it from above. With a shallow enough ratchet there is plenty of room to do it that way.
luigisho
SHO Member
I use a long strong extension or 2 to clear the fender, put a cheater pipe over the ratchet or breaker and torque away. I usually go to home depot/lowes and go to the plumbing section and pick out a galvanized pipe with the length/diameter I need.
like this
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southland-Pipe-3-4-in-x-60-in-150-PSI-Threaded-Galvanized-Pipe/1000228015
works every time. I also have a 1/2" drive/breaker and sockets for heavy torque stuff like suspension and crank pulley. Stuff you get with each project over time
like this
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Southland-Pipe-3-4-in-x-60-in-150-PSI-Threaded-Galvanized-Pipe/1000228015
works every time. I also have a 1/2" drive/breaker and sockets for heavy torque stuff like suspension and crank pulley. Stuff you get with each project over time
Well, I ducked up good. Got under the car to change the oil and noticed I didn't get the back belt on right. And I was double checking the VCs and i got a wire loom under the back one. And the plug wires were wrong that i ordered. And i had to buy a new battery. And i could not get the damn oil drain bolt off. I gave up. My back and hands were killing me. So did i ruin the valve cover gasket? And the belt?
Also, I'm 100% positive my crank deal is bad. There's oil all around the back side of the crank pulley. I have the kit to do it. Might get everything out back together and follow the FSM so I can bump start the crank bolt. I dunno. I'm just really disheartened on it now. Was hoping to have it running yesterday.
Also, I'm 100% positive my crank deal is bad. There's oil all around the back side of the crank pulley. I have the kit to do it. Might get everything out back together and follow the FSM so I can bump start the crank bolt. I dunno. I'm just really disheartened on it now. Was hoping to have it running yesterday.
You put too much on your plate at once. Should have divided all this stuff over a couple of weeks.
The belt is probably fine. The rear cover gasket might have a crease in it now. If so, it's toast.
The belt is probably fine. The rear cover gasket might have a crease in it now. If so, it's toast.
And on top of all that I'm missing a bolt for my crossover tube and couldn't get it to line up that well. Also missing my TPS screws. Not sure if I put the intake horns back in right either. I think I'm gonna just do a little here and there from now on.
luigisho
SHO Member
Yeah. What ever time you think it'll take, triple that your first run through. Trying to get valve covers on in the dark not a great idea. You need a full 60k front and top and like Chad said you should have chopped the job up. We've all been there.
Get a few more tools with more leverage. small and long cheater pipe, a few strong long and short extensions will give you options for extra torque
Get a few more tools with more leverage. small and long cheater pipe, a few strong long and short extensions will give you options for extra torque
luigisho
SHO Member
Yeah you have to go slow, label stuff, put it baggies and take pics for reassembly. Again, we've all been there.
Also also, I've got an 02 tundra with 316k miles that needs damn near new everything. And I'm going back to college with 10 hours a semester. And I just moved into a new house and I'm trying to unpack. And I have a full time job. And a gf. And joint custody visitation with 3 kids. And I hurt my back pretty bad 2 weeks ago, bad enough i had to take a week off work. I think I have a nervous breakdown coming soon.
luigisho
SHO Member
..and you bought an old SHO? That's an interesting move. You're in trouble. Homegirl better pick up a wrench
chrism3784
SHO Member
You best just removing the motor and doing a total R&R. That motor is dirty as ****, leaks everywhere it seems. Probably abused. You need to get that bolt off, I used air ratchet the first time. Always, ALWAYS put antiseize when you put the bolt back on, on the threads and the behind the bolt where it locks onto crank pulley. That crank sensor probably been leaked on and ruined.
I've been thinking some lately and I might just be willing to pull the motor. The whole subframe really. I looked through the thread in the how to and it doesnt look TOO bad. My only problem is I dont have a garage. It would be sitting on my front porch. In the trailer park. It is fenced in but.....
Also, I have good knowledge and ability, but I'm kinda limited on tools. I have a $200 tool box from kobalt and some random tools. I have a LOT of hand tools and electrical tools. Good 18V power tools too.
If I did this the car would be down for a while. At least till next year. I'd want to do the full 60k. Right this time. New southbend clutch. New aluminum sfbs. Rebuild/replace the rack. Powdercoat lots of pieces. New solid motor mounts. New oil pan gaskets. New front and rear mains and gasket sets. Rod shifter or rebuild cable shifter. Fix the exhaust. Then clean, clean, clean. Then clean more.
The problem is $$$. I have about an extra $400-600 a month. Student loans come in in January that I could use to purchase a lot of this. Maybe get it running now and wait till then? Is it worth it? I want all the options and opinions on this I can get. I've had this car since March and put maybe 100-200 miles on it total. In March. It's been apart since then. Sorry for the long post, just trying to get all the info I can.
Also, I have good knowledge and ability, but I'm kinda limited on tools. I have a $200 tool box from kobalt and some random tools. I have a LOT of hand tools and electrical tools. Good 18V power tools too.
If I did this the car would be down for a while. At least till next year. I'd want to do the full 60k. Right this time. New southbend clutch. New aluminum sfbs. Rebuild/replace the rack. Powdercoat lots of pieces. New solid motor mounts. New oil pan gaskets. New front and rear mains and gasket sets. Rod shifter or rebuild cable shifter. Fix the exhaust. Then clean, clean, clean. Then clean more.
The problem is $$$. I have about an extra $400-600 a month. Student loans come in in January that I could use to purchase a lot of this. Maybe get it running now and wait till then? Is it worth it? I want all the options and opinions on this I can get. I've had this car since March and put maybe 100-200 miles on it total. In March. It's been apart since then. Sorry for the long post, just trying to get all the info I can.
luigisho
SHO Member
The problem is also time. All that stuff with everything else going on is a tough juggle. does the shifter work? clutch still work? You can make a case for pulling the motor or not. I would do the front and top motor stuff first and go from there. If everything is junk then pull it apart but that is a longer laundry list than the first post. Either way you go once you get the oil pan off check the rod bearings.
Worked on the POS again tonight.
So this is what I pinched in the valve cover.
I guess it's still ok?
Definitely helps to tie these up.
Let's try these omni-spark wires from O'Reillys.
They're a little long and dont match the factory length.
Cleaned up a little.
IM set back on.
Getting it all out back together.
So this is what I pinched in the valve cover.
I guess it's still ok?
Definitely helps to tie these up.
Let's try these omni-spark wires from O'Reillys.
They're a little long and dont match the factory length.
Cleaned up a little.
IM set back on.
Getting it all out back together.
So I have nothing to put on this vacuum ******. What is it?
And what is this thing?
All ready to go!
The aftermath.
So it starts and runs. But I'm missing the head to block connector bolts on one side, the tps sensor screws, the ground screw nut, the bolt on top of the IM, the bolt on the drivers side front IM, and a few other random fasteners. And of course I drop the battery bolt nut. So it runs fine but is smoking from the back side of the rear valve cover, and has a very distinct miss. I'll need to get the tps bolts tomorrow. Any one know what size they are?
And what is this thing?
All ready to go!
The aftermath.
So it starts and runs. But I'm missing the head to block connector bolts on one side, the tps sensor screws, the ground screw nut, the bolt on top of the IM, the bolt on the drivers side front IM, and a few other random fasteners. And of course I drop the battery bolt nut. So it runs fine but is smoking from the back side of the rear valve cover, and has a very distinct miss. I'll need to get the tps bolts tomorrow. Any one know what size they are?
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