802SHO Engine Build

802SHO

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I hit a pretty big snag in getting my air suspension functional. I redid all my Teflon tape with 3 layers, and I deburred all the ends of the 3/8 hard lines. I reinstalled everything and now the push to connect on the manifold leaks, like beyond leaks, and it’s the tank PTC cartridge……air comes in to fill the tank and it blows right out. I found some videos on how to replace the cartridge……and ordered replacement cartridges. I was about to go ahead and replace it…but decided to call AirLift. My particular manifold only had a 1 year limited warranty from the date of purchase. Well, Airlift appreciated my forthcoming describing how I probably destroyed the rubber gasket, unknowingly with all my test fitting of the hard lines when making them. Those push to connects are more delicate than you would assume…or at least I did. I suppose with the end of the hard line slightly ragged….eventually it just cut the rubber gasket. Here is a replacement cartridge 170FE4C3 A2C1 4C95 91C5 B0C30094AE0E
And I guess replacing the cartridge is a black market thing….like it’s not even acknowledged by Airlift as a way to repair. Basically ppl find themselves with issues sometimes after a warranty period and certain ppl have sourced these cartridges, making them known, allowing ppl to fix their manifold without buying a new one. As much as this issue feels like a manufacturing one, I suppose with more information, I would have known to deburr and be very careful? So everything you find negative about Airlift seems to come down to user error, as in my case. It’s like everything negative is talked about. It’s like, if it’s good, you hear nothing. So I believe the percentage of issues to none is probably still 20/80.

AirLift said they would honor a warranty claim even though I’m outside of the one year purchase date by 2 months. Said they want me to have a good experience. I filled out a warranty claim, hoping to hear back today. They said about 2 business days, today marks 3 business days. Once officially approved I will need to call, put a $250 hold on a CC. They ship me the replacement, I send them back the original and once they get it they remove the $250 hold on my CC. All in all not too bad. Just sucks waiting.

Now I’ve come across a debate that’s been going on in the air suspension world. Bag Riders and AirLift say you CAN use hard lines into push to connect fittings. You just need to make sure it has a good seal….essentially it works but you either nail it first try (no leaks) or it tests your patience. In my case I’m beyond a leak, I have a blowout! So now….it’s always AFTER the fact…..what you should do if you’re already sure you’ll want to use hard lines (I wasn’t sure, didn’t think it mattered) get an AirLift manifold with 1/4” NPT ports. Then you’ll need to buy compression fittings. Ppl are saying in Air Suspension FB groups, Why do ppl continue to do it wrong??! PTC was never meant for hard lines. Then why does Bag Riders say you can and even has a setup on display with hard lines into PTC fittings. And AirLift said you CAN……In my case I am deep into my push to connect setup. If I went with an NPT port manifold, I’d have to buy one new, sell the one I have and then replace a bunch of my bulkhead fittings. I mean something like 23 fittings I’d have to change/buy. So this is what puzzles me….AirLift won’t send me back the NPT manifold, they say we only replace what you bought. Ok…but you can’t “rebuild it” with NPT? At some point during the manifold assembly, they go with 1/4” PTC, 3/8” PTC or 1/4” NPT. If you’re like me you’re thinking….why can’t this be disassembled and reassembled to whichever size you changed your mind for? It’s very odd. Extremely interesting. At this point I almost pulled the trigger on buying another Manifold with 1/4” NPT, but Bag Riders had none in stock….impulse buy, they were local and I could have picked it up same day, but the extra time to think about it and then telling me you CAN use push to connect….I’m just going to stay with push to connect. May just use plastic lines for
Now to conclude my testing….and when I go back to hard lines…(bought more lines too) I will at least know any leak is hard line only, instead of leaks in other places it’ll be contained to whatever I’m doing with hard lines, and I’ll treat the push to connects on the manifold like glass!

Wheel spacers came in! Beefy!! Verdict is in, my tires are same radius as stock 245-45-20 but 2.8” wider than stock lol DA457F2D 21C9 4EBF 8F4F 98B346EBCD86
Then add a 2.5” spacer We are about 5.3” wider than stock on all 4 corners!! My 20x10.5” AR924 wheels and 315/35/20 weigh 57.8lbs. Spacers are 4.4lbs each. 62.2lbs. 2.2lbs over stock but massively wider with equally massive foot print. Considering how much wider they are I’ll take it. Hard to achieve this without weight adding up. The heaviest part of the tire and wheel is the tires, over 10lbs heavier than the wheels. C04EC5DA E700 4140 B768 BF46FDFCC4C4FE444C54 8B79 49B9 89EF 6F0E7AC1BF71D3390961 9E3F 4448 9C9A F7D03AB3C1E5
Better strut clearance 25FD872C 87F2 4235 B407 86DE45758D31
Just BEEFY!! I love it 691E92E5 FF65 4B1C 8A47 82EB31970A57B8ACB805 7C0A 4183 9865 96EEAE8A90B3
It’ll look even wider on the ground, we got some suspension sag here, on the ground it’ll widen a hair A1355455 AB73 40B6 ACA8 F27E19123F3D

Carbon Fiber trunk mold is complete i believe. Time for some CF!! Stay tuned!
50D3FEF4 07C4 4F0A B2D4 C1795DA8D744E6608182 5A64 4052 AE94 1D9459B75188
 
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Nova

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Holy chit!

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 

CCXVI

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Crazy to see what's been going on since I left. And @bdp1151 still doesn't have his back on the road yet :(
 

802SHO

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Ever since I got back my new Airlift Manifold, I’ve been battling leaks with the back seat delete bulkhead PTC fittings. Even with new lines they leaked. I threw money at it and was at my wits end. Ended up deleting all hard lines, all flow valve lines and valves, bringing it back to as close to directly connected from bag to manifold with just as little of connections as possible. And I got it……I haven’t given up on my display portion so I’ll need to bring my A game to reassembly if the back seat delete panel after I take it apart and vinyl wrap it.

Now I’m battling strut adjustment. And I went down a road of replacing things in my work area of the suspension. Replaced both inner and outer tie rod ends. In the rear I replaced the passenger side lateral link, sway bar end links both sides and both track arms. The sway bar end links were binding against the strut and literally locking the suspension from dropping further 1F62F3DE 6124 4208 B4B7 70857AC84AA5B8EF3EEA 38BC 4C32 A73E 26EDDE16E94B

I took them off, then figured take the whole rear sway bar off. I’m going to go with the Whiteline sway bar and adjustable end links. Now I am at the mercy of the fenders and tires. Time to cut the fenders. But that might have to wait, starting turbos next week. For now this is how it looks aired down to the steel fender with the _clinched_ flares on top. I can go much lower when the steel fenders go under the knife.

929595FB 2BFC 4651 BCE8 4DA6ED801DE26FC2CD34 0C69 4EE5 AF95 8A8F4240D3AB48699433 85D3 4B3E 8F50 332ED12168E8C704F229 2569 478C B56C 3542C46C442E1AE35A51 81BB 4BE0 8B15 BA83CA03DDC0C5B97BF6 8E48 44AD B86F EE4D36D75B14F1788FEB 0058 49E6 AA19 0E944DCA99A784149232 03B2 4FD9 A4EB 173311D635E94E8C986D 0A28 474C BC21 12F340981EC246B59D7A 192C 4802 92E4 504504FB781F0D5D4117 3FB4 43AC A35F 72F58B77559BB000042A 901A 434A 87F4 491CF6B047C0434C0C0E B5E6 4678 B617 CACBBB90CA1191A12EE5 7E68 4A5B A9C3 88D16268AD4BDF3071F0 C00F 4831 A5F5 DEF585B5E4E8
Calling her (6F55 Soul Taker) popped into my head….hahaha! Usually it’s like Claiming to **** other makes and models when you make a name like that…no, for the EcoBoost SHO she’s a cannibal and eats herself
 

802SHO

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Turbos are mounted! Ben from VSC exceeded my expectations in designing and fabricating the brackets. When I installed the engine it became crystal clear my latest idea to have the rear turbo mounted kind of like over the shoulder of the intake manifold wouldn’t work. I swear this is the smallest engine bay in the largest 4 door sedan lol! Garrett’s smallest and most powerful small frame turbos are too BIG! So I went back and forth and came to a crazy idea of hard mounting them to the subframe…….I became convinced I would have to sacrifice a little optimization for the greater good.

First thing I noticed was he brought hardly anything with him the first day. He gave me a warning not to expect much the first day, he tapped his head and said, “Gotta do a lot of thinking”. He brought some paper/sticker material and started making a pattern. He pretty much was all set and there wasn’t anything for me to do so I let him be. About an hour later he showed me the patterns he made and said he’d make them at work. This is what he made 99B03221 24DE 46E3 9A0B 791F24EFA6D3 two flat piece of metal with threaded holes. He then cleaned up the area we agreed they should go, drilled a few holes and welded them on, then welded them together. Then added some boss’ he made out of chromoly tube. E24FE655 4D5E 4DBD B173 107FFF7A7604F1FF618A 8514 4397 A22B 2D6C4D58EA5491247534 4F00 4060 AFEB C1A2CB2691FF

Same treatment on the driver side. 895B13A7 702A 4562 9CFD 0C57618574D0C10A56FC 4CAA 49EC B411 A9B6C3C78753

What I love about the boss’ is they can twist for maneuverability and are bolted so they can be removed. That’s thinking a few steps ahead. Clearly this isn’t his first rodeo. Then came the driver side (front turbo) getting the chromoly tubes (he called them fingers) holding the turbo in place! It’s crazy but just one finger was solid as a rock. More is just overkill but I love it B8F20949 A63A 41EB 83CA DD68F5AB9B723BCAB474 8666 463D 9053 E1469AA296F8AA71AD37 D562 477B A3AC D6A157ABD3F236510A98 D951 4D92 9058 EE5906EEB2A8EA6C50B5 715A 43DE 8087 B75C7A3AF5CE2CF3DA72 C8ED 4E31 8105 88E4509FE30241455D04 E131 4ED0 900D B5A4E8084D73649A13CB DB1C 4897 A983 85D83B46E7E6

He made templates of the fingers….another smart step…so tonight he banged out the second set and mounted the passenger (rear turbo) in one shot. 53C87968 8AE2 45A0 8D38 93B1BABCB2F0F9A7358B BFD5 491D 9F55 D115AFD9ADE68062B407 11B3 4EC0 A2E5 235231E650284FEE6283 45B6 49F3 98BF ACA95669E2934B84AF06 3347 4A2F 8078 9EA2623FE821

He accidentally stripped a bolt so he’s going to come back and re thread the hole and finish the last finger. At first take the passenger side turbo had an angle 13 degrees off from the driver side. He cut off the end and re welded it. He took out his electrical level and it’s 1.5 degrees off he said, asked if I could live with it. I said yeah man that sounds close enough. 9554B529 3A57 4B6B 8D53 399E55490BF7
Exhaust and IC next!! What I had to sacrifice is my windshield washer tank, ac compressor, meth pump and horn can be relocated. I’ll do a proper meth tank and pump setup in the trunk. What I came up with for a list of Pros and Cons for front mount turbos is:
Con: Farther away from the manifolds
Pro: Hood dump exhaust
Con: Oil return too low
Pro: Add scavenger pumps
Pro: better weight distribution/traction
Pro: better airflow heat dissipation
Pro: turbo blankets available
Pro: heat from turbo will warm up drag radials hahahah no prep KING
Pro: Front mount intakes
Pro: a little less engine bay heat
Pro: easy to access, remove, replace/upgrade
 

Bluezone

Tailgaters will be prosecuted.
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Absolutely effing perfect. Way outside the box thinking, yet keeping it simple. I love it.
 

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