I hit a pretty big snag in getting my air suspension functional. I redid all my Teflon tape with 3 layers, and I deburred all the ends of the 3/8 hard lines. I reinstalled everything and now the push to connect on the manifold leaks, like beyond leaks, and it’s the tank PTC cartridge……air comes in to fill the tank and it blows right out. I found some videos on how to replace the cartridge……and ordered replacement cartridges. I was about to go ahead and replace it…but decided to call AirLift. My particular manifold only had a 1 year limited warranty from the date of purchase. Well, Airlift appreciated my forthcoming describing how I probably destroyed the rubber gasket, unknowingly with all my test fitting of the hard lines when making them. Those push to connects are more delicate than you would assume…or at least I did. I suppose with the end of the hard line slightly ragged….eventually it just cut the rubber gasket. Here is a replacement cartridge
And I guess replacing the cartridge is a black market thing….like it’s not even acknowledged by Airlift as a way to repair. Basically ppl find themselves with issues sometimes after a warranty period and certain ppl have sourced these cartridges, making them known, allowing ppl to fix their manifold without buying a new one. As much as this issue feels like a manufacturing one, I suppose with more information, I would have known to deburr and be very careful? So everything you find negative about Airlift seems to come down to user error, as in my case. It’s like everything negative is talked about. It’s like, if it’s good, you hear nothing. So I believe the percentage of issues to none is probably still 20/80.
AirLift said they would honor a warranty claim even though I’m outside of the one year purchase date by 2 months. Said they want me to have a good experience. I filled out a warranty claim, hoping to hear back today. They said about 2 business days, today marks 3 business days. Once officially approved I will need to call, put a $250 hold on a CC. They ship me the replacement, I send them back the original and once they get it they remove the $250 hold on my CC. All in all not too bad. Just sucks waiting.
Now I’ve come across a debate that’s been going on in the air suspension world. Bag Riders and AirLift say you CAN use hard lines into push to connect fittings. You just need to make sure it has a good seal….essentially it works but you either nail it first try (no leaks) or it tests your patience. In my case I’m beyond a leak, I have a blowout! So now….it’s always AFTER the fact…..what you should do if you’re already sure you’ll want to use hard lines (I wasn’t sure, didn’t think it mattered) get an AirLift manifold with 1/4” NPT ports. Then you’ll need to buy compression fittings. Ppl are saying in Air Suspension FB groups, Why do ppl continue to do it wrong??! PTC was never meant for hard lines. Then why does Bag Riders say you can and even has a setup on display with hard lines into PTC fittings. And AirLift said you CAN……In my case I am deep into my push to connect setup. If I went with an NPT port manifold, I’d have to buy one new, sell the one I have and then replace a bunch of my bulkhead fittings. I mean something like 23 fittings I’d have to change/buy. So this is what puzzles me….AirLift won’t send me back the NPT manifold, they say we only replace what you bought. Ok…but you can’t “rebuild it” with NPT? At some point during the manifold assembly, they go with 1/4” PTC, 3/8” PTC or 1/4” NPT. If you’re like me you’re thinking….why can’t this be disassembled and reassembled to whichever size you changed your mind for? It’s very odd. Extremely interesting. At this point I almost pulled the trigger on buying another Manifold with 1/4” NPT, but Bag Riders had none in stock….impulse buy, they were local and I could have picked it up same day, but the extra time to think about it and then telling me you CAN use push to connect….I’m just going to stay with push to connect. May just use plastic lines for
Now to conclude my testing….and when I go back to hard lines…(bought more lines too) I will at least know any leak is hard line only, instead of leaks in other places it’ll be contained to whatever I’m doing with hard lines, and I’ll treat the push to connects on the manifold like glass!
Wheel spacers came in! Beefy!! Verdict is in, my tires are same radius as stock 245-45-20 but 2.8” wider than stock lol
Then add a 2.5” spacer We are about 5.3” wider than stock on all 4 corners!! My 20x10.5” AR924 wheels and 315/35/20 weigh 57.8lbs. Spacers are 4.4lbs each. 62.2lbs. 2.2lbs over stock but massively wider with equally massive foot print. Considering how much wider they are I’ll take it. Hard to achieve this without weight adding up. The heaviest part of the tire and wheel is the tires, over 10lbs heavier than the wheels.
Better strut clearance
Just BEEFY!! I love it
It’ll look even wider on the ground, we got some suspension sag here, on the ground it’ll widen a hair
Carbon Fiber trunk mold is complete i believe. Time for some CF!! Stay tuned!
Ever since I got back my new Airlift Manifold, I’ve been battling leaks with the back seat delete bulkhead PTC fittings. Even with new lines they leaked. I threw money at it and was at my wits end. Ended up deleting all hard lines, all flow valve lines and valves, bringing it back to as close to directly connected from bag to manifold with just as little of connections as possible. And I got it……I haven’t given up on my display portion so I’ll need to bring my A game to reassembly if the back seat delete panel after I take it apart and vinyl wrap it.
Now I’m battling strut adjustment. And I went down a road of replacing things in my work area of the suspension. Replaced both inner and outer tie rod ends. In the rear I replaced the passenger side lateral link, sway bar end links both sides and both track arms. The sway bar end links were binding against the strut and literally locking the suspension from dropping further
I took them off, then figured take the whole rear sway bar off. I’m going to go with the Whiteline sway bar and adjustable end links. Now I am at the mercy of the fenders and tires. Time to cut the fenders. But that might have to wait, starting turbos next week. For now this is how it looks aired down to the steel fender with the _clinched_ flares on top. I can go much lower when the steel fenders go under the knife.
Calling her (6F55 Soul Taker) popped into my head….hahaha! Usually it’s like Claiming to **** other makes and models when you make a name like that…no, for the EcoBoost SHO she’s a cannibal and eats herself
Turbos are mounted! Ben from VSC exceeded my expectations in designing and fabricating the brackets. When I installed the engine it became crystal clear my latest idea to have the rear turbo mounted kind of like over the shoulder of the intake manifold wouldn’t work. I swear this is the smallest engine bay in the largest 4 door sedan lol! Garrett’s smallest and most powerful small frame turbos are too BIG! So I went back and forth and came to a crazy idea of hard mounting them to the subframe…….I became convinced I would have to sacrifice a little optimization for the greater good.
First thing I noticed was he brought hardly anything with him the first day. He gave me a warning not to expect much the first day, he tapped his head and said, “Gotta do a lot of thinking”. He brought some paper/sticker material and started making a pattern. He pretty much was all set and there wasn’t anything for me to do so I let him be. About an hour later he showed me the patterns he made and said he’d make them at work. This is what he made two flat piece of metal with threaded holes. He then cleaned up the area we agreed they should go, drilled a few holes and welded them on, then welded them together. Then added some boss’ he made out of chromoly tube.
Same treatment on the driver side.
What I love about the boss’ is they can twist for maneuverability and are bolted so they can be removed. That’s thinking a few steps ahead. Clearly this isn’t his first rodeo. Then came the driver side (front turbo) getting the chromoly tubes (he called them fingers) holding the turbo in place! It’s crazy but just one finger was solid as a rock. More is just overkill but I love it
He made templates of the fingers….another smart step…so tonight he banged out the second set and mounted the passenger (rear turbo) in one shot.
He accidentally stripped a bolt so he’s going to come back and re thread the hole and finish the last finger. At first take the passenger side turbo had an angle 13 degrees off from the driver side. He cut off the end and re welded it. He took out his electrical level and it’s 1.5 degrees off he said, asked if I could live with it. I said yeah man that sounds close enough.
Exhaust and IC next!! What I had to sacrifice is my windshield washer tank, ac compressor, meth pump and horn can be relocated. I’ll do a proper meth tank and pump setup in the trunk. What I came up with for a list of Pros and Cons for front mount turbos is:
Con: Farther away from the manifolds
Pro: Hood dump exhaust
Con: Oil return too low
Pro: Add scavenger pumps
Pro: better weight distribution/traction
Pro: better airflow heat dissipation
Pro: turbo blankets available
Pro: heat from turbo will warm up drag radials hahahah no prep KING
Pro: Front mount intakes
Pro: a little less engine bay heat
Pro: easy to access, remove, replace/upgrade