802SHO
Stock Cams
Brad is ready. He picked my wastegate springs to be 11.6 and hopes to not need to change that later on. The in tank pump will be on that 8 gang switch panel controller. The HPFP will be closed with the engine off and I’ll be able to pressurize the regulator and physically read the gauge and verify my target psi to the HPFP before starting the engine. Later I won’t need to read the gauge anymore but the sequence will be to turn on the in tank fuel pump, scavenger pump and then start the engine. I’ll need to do some idling data logs.
I checked again with my engine builder, Matt Pohnan this morning about oil to use and for how long. I’m going to use Driven BR40 conventional break-in 10w40 oil for first start, and any idling data logs and leak checks. When ready for a drive I’ll change the oil again with same oil. Recommended to do several hot and cold cycles of the engine and low-mid load for up to 500 miles. When ready to go, change oil to Driven XP7 10w-40 Semi Synthetic Racing Oil. Oil filters will either be Motorcraft or K&N.
Transfluid sticking with Mercon LV. Anti freeze will be Motorcraft Yellow. PTU and RDU Redline LWSP gear oil, stocked up on that last year. The engine oil, coolant and trans fluid I just bought. Go time is on the horizon LOL!
I checked again with my engine builder, Matt Pohnan this morning about oil to use and for how long. I’m going to use Driven BR40 conventional break-in 10w40 oil for first start, and any idling data logs and leak checks. When ready for a drive I’ll change the oil again with same oil. Recommended to do several hot and cold cycles of the engine and low-mid load for up to 500 miles. When ready to go, change oil to Driven XP7 10w-40 Semi Synthetic Racing Oil. Oil filters will either be Motorcraft or K&N.
Transfluid sticking with Mercon LV. Anti freeze will be Motorcraft Yellow. PTU and RDU Redline LWSP gear oil, stocked up on that last year. The engine oil, coolant and trans fluid I just bought. Go time is on the horizon LOL!