60k Update: PICS! What is this?

[Dr. Tweak]

Pics are up!!!

So, armed with my tools and the Nunally video, I dove in, even though I haven't done any of this before. Here's what's happened so far:

Car started, ran to car wash, then home, into my garage, home SAFE! *phew*

.Got car on jackstands, pulled wheels off.
.Removed mud guard
.Used starter-bump method to loosen crankshaft pulley bolt. It worked great!!! Don't forget to disconnect the DIS, I almost did... slap
.Removed battery
.Removed battery tray. This was a pain because on of the bolts was so rusted I had to drill it out.
.Removed far left intake connector. It was really dirty inside! I plan on cleaning the whole thing out as soon as I have the rest of the parts for my upper 60k.

At this point I started to try to loosen the acc belt tensioner, but I didn't have the correct size wrench. There isn't enough space to fit a socket and rachet! I bought the 14mm today and I'll be back at it tomorrow, I'll be sure to take some good pics too...


burnout

<small>[ December 06, 2003, 11:16 PM: Message edited by: JDLangevin ]</small>

 

[SHO--ripper]

When i did my frist CPS i had the most trouble with 2 things:

1) Battery tray

2) Aligning the timing covers. I put the bottom 2 on then the acc belts/tensioners. Then i tried to put the top one on madflame TO make a long story short i tore it all down and put all the covers on again.

Did you remove the acc belts before you tried to remove the tensioners? I fit a 14mm in no problem. Unless you have an ATX(no experience) or you're using 1/2 drive. Last thing is be careful with the timing covers. Good luck. thumb

<small>[ December 05, 2003, 08:12 PM: Message edited by: SHO--ripper ]</small>

 

[Dr. Tweak]

Did you remove the acc belts before you tried to remove the tensioners? I fit a 14mm in no problem. Unless you have an ATX(no experience) or you're using 1/2 drive. Last thing is be careful with the timing covers. Good luck.

No, I wasn't removing the tensioner I was loosening the bolt so I could un-tension it, see. The 14mm socket (3/8' drive) would not fit on, I tried everything. Hmmm... my SFB are getting replaced while I'm at it, maybe the engine is sunk to the passenger side too far because they're so shot? I didn't think of that 'till just now, oh well I needed a 14mm box end anyway...
headbang


burnout

 

[Dr. Tweak]

Update: (You have to click on the pics now)

Ok so I got the 14mm wrench I needed. I went out to use it this afternoon, but it didn't work. I kept trying to round off the bolt! doh I was just imagining what kind of trouble I would be in if I did that! headbang

So what I did:

I really wanted to be able to get my 6 point socket on there, but there just wasn't enough room. You can sort of see how close it is in this pic:
Tensioner Pulley Nut

So, I jacked up the driver side subframe to support it, then I loosened both bolts. Then I carefully lowered them back down so the driver's side would be lower. Then I went over to the passenger side and jacked the subframe up. This tilted the engine just barely enough to get my socket and rachet on. **** *phew*.

Now here's a question. When I took my wheels off I noticed this line not connected to the steering rack, on each side. I'm not sure what the line is. Anyone know?

Rack

The steering was very loose, but I thought it was just because the SFB were so bad.

Speaking of which, I got my aluminum ones in today! I'll be putting them in tomorrow. So more is to come!

<small>[ December 10, 2003, 07:04 PM: Message edited by: JDLangevin ]</small>

 

[Dr. Tweak]

By the way, I'm getting these pics hosted FREE at http://easypichost.com/?a_id=2424<image src="http://www.n-wise.com/pic/ads/4686012k.jpg"></a>

Signing up, uploading, and linking pics is very easy, check it out.

 

[BeatDaSHO]

Those are the tie rods. They aren't connected to the rack????

Greg

 

[Dr. Tweak]

Um, no you're looking at the wrong thing. I know what tie rods are I think.

Look at the first pic, see the part circled in red? It looks like some kind of power steering line...?

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

those are breather tubes for the power steering valve assembly.

 

[Dr. Tweak]

Okay... so they're supposed to be like that or no? shrug

 

[shojuan]

The metal tube goes inside that rubber ****** sticking off the inner tie rod boot. It should be connected to both the boots, driver's and passenger's. When one boot gets compressed during a turn the other boot gets expanded and the air squeezed out of one goes into the other. When the tube is disconnected like yours is the air equalizes with the atmosphere but now your rack is somewhat exposed to the elements. Not such a good thing. nono At a minimum hook the tube back up (you can hold the boot ****** on one side with the tube inserted while you jam the boot ****** on the other side onto the tube. Use a little silicone spray on the tube ends if it doesn't want to go in smoothly. If you need new inner tirerods then soon would be a good time to change them and a good opportunity to inspect the outside of the rack housing under the tie rod boots for contamination and corrosion. You might find that there is none. Or you might find some in which case you should clean it up.

 

[SolidState]

I am nealy positive that the tensioner on my ATX is a 17mm bolt...

In fact, I had to take the belt off a 3.2L sitting in a garage and used a 17mm.

 

[Dr. Tweak]

shojuan:

Thanks for the info. I'll get that taken care of.

Solidstate:

The ATX is a lot different, for example it only uses one belt instead of two on the MTX.

 

[SolidState]

I have an ATX. I was refering to my 94.

The MTX uses 14mm nuts to secure the tension pullies....

EDIT...oh, nevermind....I am the dork here. I thought you had an ATX. My bad.

<small>[ December 07, 2003, 09:30 AM: Message edited by: SolidState ]</small>

 

[sdpatt]

One key to removing the 14mm nuts from the alternator belt tensioner on the 3.0L without rounding it is to use the closed section of a box-end wrench and use some form of force to ensure the wrench stays securely on the nut. I use the 18" long T-handled Allen wrench (for the tensioner nuts) to lever significant force against the wrench as I torque the nut either off or on the stud. I find the front tensioner nut more easily done with the battery tray still in place. It provides something to lever against.

I have used a 14mm socket and 3/8" drive wrench on the PS tensioner nut.

If you don't have a long 5mm Allen wrench or bit, loosenign of the PS tensioner nut is going to be another stopping point.