Devin
3.Slow
I want to replace the stock JBL speakers on my '90. Will 6.5in speakers fit without radical modifications?
6.5 speakers fit in door?
- Thread starter Devin
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Devin
3.Slow
Okay, so I really suck at car audio. I have 20 year old Boston Acoustics Rally 6x9s in the rear and stock JBLs in the doors. I bypassed the JBL amps and have a Pioneer HU (DEH-X4800BT). I wanted to do 2-ways in the dash and a midrange in the doors but I've never used or even specced out anything that would involve using a crossover.
Do I need to use a specific brand's crossover when using their speakers? Does a midrange in the door make sense or just use a two-way and lose the tweeter frequency?
Do I need to use a specific brand's crossover when using their speakers? Does a midrange in the door make sense or just use a two-way and lose the tweeter frequency?
luigisho
SHO Member
not without cutting and maybe having to trim the molded plastic on the door panel. I have done it and the fit was not great. Ther door metal is easy to trim, the door panel less so. It is so flimsy and weak messing with it is a problem.
luigisho
SHO Member
I have specially modified sail panels (the triangle trim piece by the window) for a tweeter and mids in the doors. I forget what size I put in the door but 6.5 I think was too big for this project. I might have compromised with the 5.25 or gone a tad higher. Every time I do a speaker job in the door I cringe because the panels like to break at the push fastener tabs and rattle. I hate that part of the Taurus interior. I would use the crossover with the set if it comes with it. You can use another brand though. Finding a place to mount the crossovers is a PITA if the wiring isn't long enough. I put my first set in the door but that did not sit a well as I hoped. Lengthen the wiring if needed.
Devin
3.Slow
I hadn't thought of those panels for a tweeter. Since you only have the two wires going through the door frame I assume the crossover has to sit in the door?
Devin
3.Slow
That gives me an idea. I'll see if I can pull it off.
luigisho
SHO Member
I originally had a set in the door. I forget if it was one of my GenIIs or GenIII. I eventually entended wires and moved them inside to stay away from moisture and because they sat funny still putting a littel pressure on the door panel or they didn't sit securely and fell out when removing the panel. It's been a while since I installed that setup. I remember slightly larger diameter speakers with vaying levels of success. The problem is the speaker part of the GenII has a plastic molding inside the door that can press against the speaker surround. I think if you have good enough fill from the back you can get away with a quality 5.25 up front. There are other ways to tackle this but I only have x amount of time to dedicate to something that should be relatively easy. Also I always rewired most of the setup running new power and speaker wires (and rca or other wiring) just to simplify setup and trouble shooting.
luigisho
SHO Member
BTW, looking at your other post, get this thing running before you do all the stereo labor. 
Devin
3.Slow
Oh it's running great now. Did I not update my posts?BTW, looking at your other post, get this thing running before you do all the stereo labor.
luigisho
SHO Member
my bad. I saw your last post that skipped to a reply by you and and attributed the whole thread to you. I open stuff that skips to the latest unread inside a thread. DoH!
Devin
3.Slow
Oh yeah, the no start condition. Had that before. In fact all three of my suggestions were issues I had at several points.my bad. I saw your last post that skipped to a reply by you and and attributed the whole thread to you. I open stuff that skips to the latest unread inside a thread. DoH!
Interestingly, there is a jumper in the engine bay for the SPOUT signal. The PO had cut the whole jumper out and now mine is "jumpered" with a blue wire nut.
One additional suggestion? Make sure you have at least 10 or so of the door panel push pins. As posted above pretty common to break especially with the age of the plastic.
They are really needed as those plastic door cards do creak and squeak so get them as tight as possible.
I would fix the SPOUT. Otherwise the timing is fixed?
.
.
.
They are really needed as those plastic door cards do creak and squeak so get them as tight as possible.
I would fix the SPOUT. Otherwise the timing is fixed?
.
.
.
Similar threads
