2010 - no key detected, not the fob or battery...

[shaker281]

The spec on these systems is 2.5v or higher according to the service manual. I always use Duracell or Energizer. When my initial problem occurred, one of my fobs was at 2.6v and the other at 2.9v and the 12v battery had sat for 8 days, plus it was 5 years old. In retrospect I think it was charging the 12v battery, replacing the fob battery, starting the car with the fob in it's holder and then operating the door locks from the fob that got everything working again. Simply charging the battery and replacing the fob battery with an Energizer had failed to solve the issue for me. IOW FM!

 

[SHOdded]

All good now?

 

[shaker281]

Well, it has happened again. Car sat for around 5 days (battery is 4 months new and fully charged prior to sitting). Got in and drove to store just fine. At store said "No Key Detected" and warned not to shut off. Left running while I grabbed my stuff. Came home and found that it will only start with fob in holder. Charged battery, checked voltage on fob battery - right at +3v. Disconnected 12v battery and shorted terminals for 20 minutes. Same problem. Door locks do not respond to fob at all, running or otherwise. Left battery disconnected over night, no help.

Concerned that if I take it to dealer, they re-sync the fobs and it does it again in another 3-4 months.

Any ideas? Only thought that I have is replaced the fob receiver (rfr) in the headliner, which would be both a PITA and a total SWAG.

 

[skyshadow07]

Isn't there another receiver front of the cup holder in the center console? I feel like I have seen it while having my console apart.

 

[shaker281]

The device by the cup holder might be the RFA or an antennae, as opposed to the fob receiver (RFR).

Anyhow, just like before, after a few weeks of it not responding to the fob, today it finally sync'd back up randomly. I was putting the fob in the holder and inadvertently touched the panic button and it set off the horn/alarm. I knew it must be working again and sure enough...

No idea what is really going on, but I was pretty sure it would eventually "fix" itself again. Why or how IDK. The car had sat for a few days and nothing had changed since last time I drove it.

 

[skyshadow07]

You didn't change anything? Like did you clear the KAM?

 

[shaker281]

I had disconnected the battery twice over the past couple weeks to no avail. Second time I shorted the positive to negative terminal for 30 minutes then reconnected. That was a week ago. Did not help. So, basically it just cleared up spontaneously, like it did last January. Been using the car with the fob in the holder for the past two weeks. Seems to happen after the car has not been driven for 5-7 days. This time it started fine, then gave me "no key detected" when I went to shut it off at the auto parts store. Going to try to not let it sit for more than 3-4 days any more without driving it.

 

[Johnbigdog]

There is just a anttena/back up transceiver in the glove box on early models and in the center consol onnlater models.

 

[Nova]

I have an 18 and mine does the same thing from time to time, another thing my car does is when I start tgr car and start driving down the driveway I'll get a message that no key is detected while I'm driving.... I've come to accept that this is how my SHO works.

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk

 

[stripSHO]

Oh boy! Project indeed!

All vehicles

1. Depower the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS). For additional information, refer to Section 501-20B .

1. Remove the LH and RH A-pillar trim panels. For additional information, refer to A-Pillar Trim Panel in this section.

1. Disconnect the electrical connector located on the lower LH and RH A-pillar.
   • Remove the wiring harness pin-type retainers.

1. If equipped, disconnect the safety canopy bridge resistor electrical connector.

1. Remove the LH and RH sun visor.
   • Remove the 2 sun visor retaining screws.
   • If equipped, disconnect the electrical connectors.

1. Remove the LH and RH sun visor clips.
   • Remove the sun visor clip screws.

1. If equipped, disconnect the interior auto-dimming mirror, compass, rain sensing electrical connector(s).

1. Remove the front and rear assist handles.
   • Open the assist handle retainer screw covers.
   • Remove the assist handle retaining screws.
   • If equipped, disconnect the ambient light electrical connector.

1. Remove the left rear passenger side door check arm bolt.
   • Remove 1 door check arm bolt from the body.
   • To install, tighten to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).

1. Remove the LH and RH front seats. For additional information, refer to Section 501-10 .

1. Remove the front floor console. For additional information, refer to Section 501-12 .

1. Flatten the LH and RH carpet against floor and tape into position.

1. Remove the LH and RH B-pillar trim panels. For additional information, refer to B-Pillar Trim Panel in this section.

1. Completely remove the left rear door weatherstrip from opening.

1. Remove the LH and RH C-pillar trim panels. For additional information, refer to C-Pillar Trim Panel in this section.

1. Lower the door weatherstrips where they contact the headliner.

1. Remove the 2 trim panel retaining clips from the rear of the headliner.
   • Remove the 2 retaining clips using a pushpin puller.

Vehicles with roof opening panel

1. Disconnect the roof opening panel electrical connector.

Vehicles without roof opening panel

1. NOTICE: Do not cut below the front reinforcement support or damage to the headliner will occur.
   
   NOTE: The base headliner front reinforcement support must be cut to allow for flexing when removing through the door opening. Cut the support on the outer side of the reinforcement support rib.
   
   NOTE: Replacement headliners have been pre-cut.
   
   Lower the headliner and cut the front reinforcement support.
   • Using a cutoff wheel or suitable cutting tool, cut the support 8 mm (0.314 in) away from both the center support ribs, 20 mm (0.787 in) deep.

All vehicles

NOTE: The headliner is made of new material that will allow for specific folding and flexing during removal and installation.

1. Remove the headliner.
   • Rotate the headliner 90 degrees clockwise and remove the headliner through the left rear door opening.

1. NOTE: Obtain the 3M™ Duramix™ 4747 Super Fast Adhesive commercially. The 3M™ Duramix™ 4747 Super Fast Adhesives a 2-part adhesive in a 50 ml dual-tube applicator. Depending on the size of the headliner and optional wire harness(es), the purchase of two to five 50 ml tubes is suggested.
   
   If installing a new headliner, transfer the wire harness in the following sequence:
   1. Using a suitable marking tool, mark the new headliner with the routing and exit points of the wire harness from the original headliner.
   1. Carefully remove the wire harness from the original headliner.
   1. NOTICE: Make sure not to damage the wire harness when cutting the excess adhesive from the wire harness.
      
      Cut and remove any excess adhesive from the wire harness.
   1. Position the wire harness onto the new headliner and check that the harness has enough length to be connected to the body/roof connectors. Apply tape to temporarily hold the wire harness in that position on the headliner.
   1. NOTE: The 3M™ Duramix™ 4747 Super Fast Adhesive will set in 20 seconds. Continually make sure that the wire harness is routed correctly when applying the adhesive.
      
      Apply the 3M™ Duramix™ 4747 Super Fast Adhesive in the same location as the factory installed adhesive along the full length of the wire harness-to-headliner to avoid any NVH concern(s).
   1. Transfer all necessary components.

1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

FWIW the dealer told me when I had my roof dent repaired that they pull the headliner through the windshield. Luckily they were able to just drop it down and didn’t need to pull it out to do their thing. Hopefully you could do the same.