1995 atx no start no crank, just single click

quagmires_sho

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when I try to start it, there's no crank, and the clock and dash lights turn off, if i remember correctly the abs light comes on the dash but that's it, the fuel pump works i hear it whirring, plus it started not 5 minutes before the issue arose, tested battery, shows 12.5 V, no drop to suggest some sort of draw when starting, i watched a video that said it could be the ground for the starter bc the clicking is the solenoid actuating, wondering if this is a common sho specific issue or if its just the ground.
 

luigisho

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Could be a wire short or maybe the starter going out. It could also be the crank sensor but I would start with the starter and wiring down there.
 

quagmires_sho

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Could be a wire short or maybe the starter going out. It could also be the crank sensor but I would start with the starter and wiring down there.
id be mad if it was the starter failing cuz i had JUST had it running minutes previous...
 

luigisho

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I'd be mad it didn't start period. I think you should pull the codes and see if anything is in there to help narrow things down. You need to look at symptoms, any clues in codes, and make a plan of attack to narrow things down. If you try again and get the same results you might take a wooden handle or a rubber mallet give the starter a few whacks and see what happens. Simple stuff like that. Also try checking battery terminal tightness, look for cracks in the DIS at the side clips etc. It could be alternator.. a lot of things. Start with codes and see if anything pops up.
 

zoomlater

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get a voltmeter and see if there is 12V at the starter lugs when the key is turned on, if you have 12V then the ignition and wiring is okay (if not, then you need to start looking to see why you are not getting power to the starter. If you have power, then you can try jumping the terminals with an insulated screw driver to see if you can get the solenoid to engage the flywheel. Check your connections and make sure they are tight and not corroded, it doesn't hurt to clean your battery terminal to make sure you have good contact with the battery cables.
 

Osaka

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Try to isolate the issue, so check with the starter. Someone else suggested to jump the terminals, thats a great way to start. You could try slapping the starter with a wrench while someone turns the key, that worked for me when it wouldnt spin the flywheel. If its one click, then the arm in the starter is pushing out at least. Maybe its just not able to turn the pinon on the arm.
 

rubydist

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The most likely issue with that symptom is a bad starter solenoid. I would test that first as suggested above.
 

quagmires_sho

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I'd be mad it didn't start period. I think you should pull the codes and see if anything is in there to help narrow things down. You need to look at symptoms, any clues in codes, and make a plan of attack to narrow things down. If you try again and get the same results you might take a wooden handle or a rubber mallet give the starter a few whacks and see what happens. Simple stuff like that. Also try checking battery terminal tightness, look for cracks in the DIS at the side clips etc. It could be alternator.. a lot of things. Start with codes and see if anything pops up.
i already pulled all the codes: (they were all done during the key on engine off phase of testing) theyre all in memory but the only thing that shouldnt pop up anymore is the 172,176,181 and potentially 189 because i figured it was rich BECAUSE of the faulty o2 sensors, which i had just replaced prior to this issue comin up. the remaining codes are:217 "DIS fault ignition system - coil #3" and ,332 "insufficient egr flow detected" which could be the other reason its running rich, which would explain why its throwing rich AND lean codes. whats the testing procedure for the ignition system? i should give the terminals a thorough cleaning tho... confused why whatever thing broke decided to just go out.
 

quagmires_sho

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i already pulled all the codes: (they were all done during the key on engine off phase of testing) theyre all in memory but the only thing that shouldnt pop up anymore is the 172,176,181 and potentially 189 because i figured it was rich BECAUSE of the faulty o2 sensors, which i had just replaced prior to this issue comin up. the remaining codes are:217 "DIS fault ignition system - coil #3" and ,332 "insufficient egr flow detected" which could be the other reason its running rich, which would explain why its throwing rich AND lean codes. whats the testing procedure for the ignition system? i should give the terminals a thorough cleaning tho... confused why whatever thing broke decided to just go out.
unrelated but could someone help me identify a melted line? posted about it to no avail and yall seem to know what ur talking ab with these cars, just shoot me a message:thumb:
 

rubydist

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My experience is that the coil codes are nearly always really a DIS problem, so that is suspect. But the DIS will not prevent the engine from cranking over, so you still have a starter circuit issue.
 

Shojay92

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when I try to start it, there's no crank, and the clock and dash lights turn off, if i remember correctly the abs light comes on the dash but that's it, the fuel pump works i hear it whirring, plus it started not 5 minutes before the issue arose, tested battery, shows 12.5 V, no drop to suggest some sort of draw when starting, i watched a video that said it could be the ground for the starter bc the clicking is the solenoid actuating, wondering if this is a common sho specific issue or if its just the ground.
Have you had the starter tested? You can always remove the starter and take it to your local AutoZone for example where they will bench test it for you free of charge.
 

luigisho

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i already pulled all the codes: (they were all done during the key on engine off phase of testing) theyre all in memory but the only thing that shouldnt pop up anymore is the 172,176,181 and potentially 189 because i figured it was rich BECAUSE of the faulty o2 sensors, which i had just replaced prior to this issue comin up. the remaining codes are:217 "DIS fault ignition system - coil #3" and ,332 "insufficient egr flow detected" which could be the other reason its running rich, which would explain why its throwing rich AND lean codes. whats the testing procedure for the ignition system? i should give the terminals a thorough cleaning tho... confused why whatever thing broke decided to just go out.
Don't assume what codes are not there because you did X. The codes will help confirm whether that issue is fixed but taking the most common repair and then assuming the issue is resolved is not always correct. If there are lingering issues, see if you can get the car to start, clear the codes, and see what codes if any come back.
 

quagmires_sho

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Don't assume what codes are not there because you did X. The codes will help confirm whether that issue is fixed but taking the most common repair and then assuming the issue is resolved is not always correct. If there are lingering issues, see if you can get the car to start, clear the codes, and see what codes if any come back.
my plan was to come back the next day and clear codes, then drive it around some so the computer has some time to see if problem fixed, cuz the reader gave me an 11 and then read all those codes from the continuous memory which wouldnt show themselves as resolved right? im not used to obd1 at all it feels like a relic, and the manual is an ancient tome of some sort. ig ill get it running and then worry ab codes, the previous guy who had the car seemed to be an idiot, one of the o2 sensors was just finger tight, so i wouldnt be surprised if the codes except for the o2 sensor ones still come up after i drive it a bit but ur right ab the assumptions, but even if it doesnt fix it, at least the car still needed new o2 sensors (157000+ on the oem ones)
 

luigisho

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Yes it is a relic for sure. OBD II developed into alot more sensor input and with the right scan tool can really give you info. Not this thing.
 
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