Who needs front brakes??

Discussion in 'Generation 4 - Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Cooler, Feb 12, 2018.

  1. Cooler

    Cooler SHO Member

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    A month or so ago i replaced brakes on car...keep in mind i have never taken a tire off car before. I had some intermittent help but did most myself.
    Which is possibly my problem. Got the z23 i think they are from rock auto. Back brakes i think are perfect but front i think are iffy. Noticed the other morning more give in brakes then i feel should be there, then noticed vibration today. Now, vibration and noise could have been there awhile, but i am usually rocking in my 76 mile trip into work.
    I looked after work and both front brakes seem weird, but i know nothing. The front rotors show wear for about 3/4" if that, and nothing else. The brake pad angle looks funny on both sides.

    What idiocracy have i done? Or is it i used wrong grease on shims? I will try to take pic tomorrow if it helps.

    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. Cooler

    Cooler SHO Member

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    2011 PP, and 99% i got correct brakes.
     
  3. ridered74

    ridered74 SHO Member

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    You might have put the outside pad on the inside and vice versa. Usually the pads are slightly different and you have to look at the old ones as you take them off and match up which is which to the new ones.
     
  4. 6500rpm

    6500rpm Quality Always Shoots Straight

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    Not sure what you mean about " The front rotors show wear for about 3/4" if that", but if your pads are wearing at an angle it's likely that you have a piston sticking in the caliper. Uneven pad wear is caused by two things, stuck piston on multi piston calipers or calipers sticking on the slides. Typically wear at an angle is piston related and more wear on outboard to inboard pads is slide related.
    I've had really good service life and performance with the factory PP pads and rotors, so when it's time for me I'm going back with OEM pads. As far as rotors are concerned, I've been trained and believe, that if you have sufficient rotor material it's better to resurface than to replace as the used rotor has been thermal cycled/stress relieved and are less likely to warp. Also, clamp the rotor down against the hub with the lug nuts after cleaning both mating surfaces and spin it with a dial indicator and check for run out (causes pulsation). Run out can be corrected by re indexing the rotor some times or you can install a shim plate, or just have the rotor turned by a shop with a "on car" lathe. I know this is probably a lot for the OP, but it's good information to keep in mind. To the OP, if the car stopped smoothly before the brake job and now you're experiencing a pronounced thump while braking, I'd look for a stuck piston. It's possible that when they were pushed back into the caliper bore that one may have stuck.
     

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