Wheel wheel/engine bay rot spot question.

Discussion in 'Gen 1 & 2 - Wheels, Tires, Interior, Body, and Cos' started by Hvyleaf, Oct 20, 2019.

  1. Hvyleaf

    Hvyleaf Member

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    Looking to buy a
    White 94 mtx, 206 on dash 44k on motorb60k done, pictures and records to prove.
    Painted and por15 coated subframe
    Gen 3 coil overs
    Aluminum subframe bushings
    Reinforced motor mounts
    New Trans mount
    Ac gutted.
    Flat roof.50/50 grey interior. Good shape.
    Trans fluid done with a drain plug installed.

    Oh and it has BBB, ported intake, shobros couplers

    Body has no rust, slight surface rust on some spots that can be brushed and painted. I attached a picture of the one thing that's got me a little sketchy.
    I believe in my heart it's a good buy, as this won't be my daily.

    --I was curious on your opinions, of how serious this is/ if a cut,weld,paint would suffice.
    Or I was thinking sand, paint,send it. .

    Side question. Why are the dashboards different in second gens? This doesn't have the digital climate control with outside temperature reading.
    Were these factory options back then?

    Thanks in advance.
     

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  2. sperold

    sperold Last to Know Supporting Member

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    If that is the worst rust, you have nothing to worry about.

    Start by removing your power steering resevoir, run a wire wheel over that area, hit it with rust killer (in a can), finish off with primer and paint. If you have lots of time, take the inner fender out and do something similar on the underside, but it is not vital at this time.

    There are SHOs that have a manual climate control, three dial system, and they are rare (and reliable).
     
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  3. Hvyleaf

    Hvyleaf Member

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    Thank you for your reply.
    Awesome. I was worried, that since it caused a hole , it may be worse than it looks. Doesn't seem to be too structural. Radiator support is pretty rusty, not too bad. Brake lines look good.
    It does have the manual climate control. That's pretty neat to know. I feel a bit better about this purchase. As lame as it sounds, I was worried about people " why would you buy a car with rust like this " I can hear it already. It's my car though haha. Not going to find something for less. Needs tires and brakes. Abs light on, but I can deal without it. Havent tested it lol. My 93 had bias valves blocked or whatever the owner did, so the rears would lock under heavy braking. I didn't mind this.

    The window trim around the rear is a bit old/dry looking. Hopefully some back to black with take care of that. Check valve for fuel is on it's way out according to the seller. If you let it sit for an hour or so after running it takes a few cranks to get fuel back into the rails I guess. Fuel pump sounds quiet.
     
  4. Hvyleaf

    Hvyleaf Member

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    Well, I found more rust. Subframe was painted and coated with POR15 . It still looked flakey, inside had surface rust. I am worried about it rotting from the inside. Found some rocker rot. I decided to pass. Ebrake is stuck, NBD in the big picture, I know. Few things I think , not worth pursuing.
    I have more pictures. These seem to be the worst.
    There were painted areas that seemed flakey/rust prone.
     

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  5. SHOdded

    SHOdded SHO Member Supporting Member

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  6. Hvyleaf

    Hvyleaf Member

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    I'm glad I slept on it. Upon first glance, it wasn't bad. Until I proceeded to take my time, when I wasn't overly caffeinated.
     
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  7. sperold

    sperold Last to Know Supporting Member

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    It really depends on the asking price. The car seems to have a lot of good parts.

    The rockers are always the first place to rot through. The sunroof cars dump the front drains in the rocker panels and eventually the drain holes fill up with dirt, scale. Even the non sunroof cars suffer the same fate.

    The back wall of the rocker panel structure is the critical member (the pinch point) that people used to jack on. The front face is not as structural and that is where your rust is. Take a look at the back.

    Painting the sub-frame seems suspicious, but not a solid thing to dismiss on. They have been known to fail, but are pretty rugged overall. Tap it with a tack hammer to see if it all sounds the same.

    The parking brake cable to the passenger rear wheel is the cable that is stuck. It has a long and tortured route. You can free it up and get it working again, but it will never be right. Much better to install a new cable, and there are write ups on this forum to follow. Take lots of pictures of that "splitter" contraption on the drivers side, near the rear wheel because if you take it off without documentation, you will not get it back together properly.

    In Canada, we don't have the option to jet off to sunny California to pick up a truly rust free, almost 30 year old car. So we are much more sympathetic towards situations like this.
    If it is cheap enough, it can be made serviceable, but it would take some work.
    But the fact remains, there are better cars out there, and that is where price becomes the issue.
     
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