V8 SHO Catastrophic Shim Failure

If it is just the front head, then fix just the front head. Piece of cake compared to the rear head.

I have reused decent headgaskets before. I have reused bolts before and added 5# of torque with great success too.

Always best to use new if you can still find them.

I also lap in my own new valves, but sending out the heads for a proper 3 angle job = once again better.

 

I did a write up on this a while back. Head gaskets are available from a couple of locations. Shosource is the most reliable source.

https://shoforum.com/index.php?posts/1473926/

 

I see you tagged onto this thread so your shim buckets are good etc? You have to look at the cylinder for damage that may require attention. You can price out the head work and locate a used replacement and compare price. I would only do 1 head if I could get away with it. Especially if it is in front

 

I have a complete front head off of my parts car. I can always send that out to get worked. Would like to keep the original head with it if it is reusable. I did shoot an email (yesterday) to ShoSource for gasket & bolts. Will look to see your writeup (gamefanatic) on the procedure....ty for all your help.

 

It's a "good luck finding head bolts" situation. Here's a conversation about possibly cutting Duratec head bolts to length.

Here's a list of parts from this 2007 post, I bolded the parts you should replace for the front, and added some links to new parts:

(2) Upper Intake Manifold Gasket - F6DZ-9439-B - $37.60 ea.
(2) Lower Intake Manifold Gasket - F6DZ-9439-A - $9.26 ea. (available)
(1) Center Timing Chain Cover Gasket - F6DZ-6020-CA - $13.18
(1) RH Timing Chain Cover Gasket - F6DZ-6020-AA - $12.27
(1) LH Timing Chain Cover Gasket - F6DZ-6020-BA - $12.27
(1) Timing Chain Cover Crankshaft Seal - F5AZ-6700-A - $10.72 (available)
(1) Rear/Right Head Gasket - F6DZ-6051-CA - $237.63 (available)
(1) F6DZ-6051-DA Left head gasket $ 148.99
(10) Head Bolt - F6DZ-6065-BA -$3.08 ea. (have not found any OEM sources)
(10) Head Bolt Washers - F6DZ-6L015-AA - $3.03
(1) Rear Exhaust Man. Gasket - F6DZ-9448-K7B - $19.53
(1) Left Hand Valve Cover Gasket - F6DZ-6584-CA – $23.98 (available)
(1) Right Hand Valve Cover Gasket - F6DZ-6584-BA - $29.56 (available)
(8) Cylinder Head Cover plug Gaskets – F6DZ-6F048-AA - $3.64 per 2 (available)
(2) Cylinder Head Cover Gaskets – F6DZ-6F048-BA - $5.47 ea.
(2) 3/8” Fuel Line Connection o-rings/Seal 5/16 X .07 - 390846-S96 - $1.64
(2) 1/2” Fuel Line Connection o-rings/Seal 7/16 X .07 - 390847-S96 - $1.38
(16) Fuel Injector O-Ring – F6DZ-9229-A – $1.03

Now: head gasket set - $377.95.



Head bolts are "tighten to (only) 20-23 ft-lb in sequence, then tighten an additional 90 degrees." - Torque-to-yield, no reuse.

Part numbers are useful for sometimes finding liquidators clearing them out on ebay, or for putting in the Green Sales site.

Of course, you could get a valve(s) to replace the bent one, have the head machined and a valve job, even redo stem seals and guides, and put it back together better than a used head.

[6] Intake valve - F6DZ-6507-DA (available - $23.10)
[7] Exhaust valve - F6DZ-6505-DA (available)
[8] Intake valve stem seals - F6DZ-6571-AA
[8] Exhaust valve stem seals - F6DZ-6571-BA (available)
[11] Valve spring retainer keeper - F5RZ-6518-B (available - 27.42 each!)
[10] Valve retainer (lower) - F6DZ-6514-CA
[10] Valve spring retainer (upper) - F6DZ-6514-AA
[12] Tappet - valve lifter - F6DZ-6500-AA (available - $27.29 each)
[13] Shim/Spacer - F6DZ-6515-xx (or use v6 shims with no hole, and a magnet or pick to remove)

also interesting:
3 of four new camshafts available.
Right hand head, new (no valves) F6DZ-6049-GA $405.53 (available)
Left side valve cover replacement - F6DZ-6582-CA




Guessing that the shattered shim is it being smashed by the camshaft after being partially ejected, and pushing the valve deeper into the engine also. I guess, make sure you can "reconstruct" the shim from the parts to be sure you removed them all.

 

Head bolts:
https://shop.rocketracingshop.com/FORD-TAURUS-SHO-34-96-99-HEAD-BOLTS-SHO-HEAD-BOL.htm
$99.00

Head Gaskets are a tad bit less at SHOSource:
http://www.shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=100_101&products_id=733

 

I have to say...this is a learning experience.
Wound up getting 3 new exhaust valve & all new valve seals....thanks ShoGuy89.
The machine shop said that it would be best to see if I could track down another exhaust cam (LH)...the one with the camshaft trigger ring.
I did not realize the front & back (head) exhaust cams were different.
Wound up using my parts car head....but I used the cam with the trigger wheel when I first got the car.
The initial issue was a kicked out shim....the mechanic that did the work replaced the exhaust cam.
If anyone has a "spare" non-abused cam...post back to me.
Hopefully this is the last part needed.....can't wait to start putting it back together.

 

I was able to get the cam from E1 (TY).
Working on setting up the timing....does not seem to overcomplicated, but 1 question.
They talk about the timing marks on the chains, sprockets and the balance shaft.
Do not understand the balance shaft part.
I don't know if they are just referencing that the chain goes around the balance shaft.
I have the links on all the chains setup....just little paranoid about the balance shaft reference.

Can anyone chime in on this ??

 

did a little more searching on the website...found this
Balance shaft index mark on the sprocket goes DOWN like in the drawing (more or less the dot will be in the middle of where the chain's contact range is).

will continue on....ty for all that have replied ...hopefully get this all back together in a day or so.

 

Hi Stan,

Your search leads you in the good direction. Here is the plan from the Ford book, not great quality image but you can see that the mark is pointing down but there is a 7.9 decrees inclination to the right.



I never did this repair but I have other photos id you need them.

 

I did this repair many times before I read somewhere that the big timing chain itself actually has black links used for the timing. I always just put it together real careful-like and did alright.

No kidding - the big timing chain has black links for each of the timing positions.

That said, yes. the timing marks are a little off this way and that. The picture from Gen 3 sho fan is the exact one I used to time all the engines I repaired over the years. Trust it.

 

For what its worth, mine didn't have any markings on the chain. But I didn't have CAM slip, so I had the luxury of marking the chain / sprockets before disconnecting it.

 

They do. They ALL do, trust me. It is not very different, but the timing chain link DOES have a different color to it than all the rest. It can be VERY subtle.
Like I said - I did MANY engines before I even knew it was there to look for.

It is on the outside, it is a little darker than the rest of the links. There are only 4 if I recall. Look REALLY Closely.

This picture. I just took it a few minutes ago. Has 2 Black timing links in it. Can you find them?

 

Timing marks on sprockets are somewhat subtle too with all the oil and carb deposits there...

The big chain must have 4 marks. (I admit that I wasn't aware of this before.) Is the secondaries has these marks too (2) ?

With all these marks, re-timing the engine isn't that hard. However, to reach the place is another game...

 

Yes...after reading all about the colored links before getting waist deep, I was really only confused by the picture of the balance shaft setup. I had seen the marks on the cam chains (secondary), and at least 3 on the main chain.
I will see if I can find the 4th colored link....which is the one that probably goes to the balance shaft.

Again, ty to all that responded...going to see what I can get done on it today.

 

Ran into another issue...appears that the RH head has bent intake valves. Was doing a dbl chk on everything before putting the timing chain cover on...ran leak down test. Almost lost my lunch. How bad of a job is the back head ?? Seems like I'm 3/4 of the way there now...Can it be done with the engine in the car ??

 

Absolutely can be done with the engine in the car. But, don't do like I did and drop it on the way pulling it out. Then you have added to the task... Make sure you have a good hold on it and pull it straight out once you get it loose.

 

Its
No
Fun

I HAVE done a rear head in the car just to prove to myself it could be done.

That said - ouch - lots of bloody knuckles getting the alternator bracket off the block as I recall.

Good luck, Sir. It CAN be done.

 

I actually had more fun with getting at the headers. You could disconnect them at the exhaust, but adds to weight and something else to catch on the way out...

 

I want to start with apologizing for the long post.
I finally it got all back together...fired it up ...ran like a champ.
No leaks anywhere.

Issue 1: ran it to get it up to temp....got up about 3/4 of the way...no heat...temp kept rising...shut it down.
Thought about it over night....thought maybe a vapor lock....tried again the next morning.

Issue 2: When I started it again in the morning, it developed an oil leak...can see if dripping off the lower water pump bolt.....Pretty steady drip.
Temp got above 1/2...no heat...shut it down before it went any higher.
Started to take apart that section of the motor...to see if I could see where the oil was coming from.
Figured I needed to replace the thermostat anyway (maybe stuck closed)....it is leaking in the same "area".

When I picked up the thermostat at the auto store ..the guy behind the counter thought that I might need to "burp" the system to get the water to flow into the heads.

Questions:
I know guys on this forum have probably ran into this issue...what was your method of "burping" the system for vapor lock ??
Hoping that the oil leak is coming from the valve cover or possibly where the water pump pulley seal is in the head.
Could I have damaged the head if it got too hot ??

As always...any input appreciated.