Upper Intake Manifold questions

Discussion in 'Gen 1 & 2 - Engine, Exhaust, Drive Line & AC syste' started by 3d914, May 7, 2008.

  1. tery

    tery Silvia survived the purge- summer car

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    Daaamn, this is amazing to still see going, admirable to say the least!
     
  2. 3d914

    3d914 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys. Just making slow progress. Too many distractions helping out the kids with their cars - it never ends. Working on my sons 996 doing rear seal and IMS bearing. Had to interrupt that for tranny pan and solenoid on daughters Outback. Also did new headers for other daughters MR2 Spyder.

    Now if I can just keep my focus and not go off and buy something to enjoy in the iterim - I might actually get this done.
     
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  3. 3d914

    3d914 Well-Known Member

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    Well focus keeps getting shifted to other things. Daughters MR2 sprung a leak at the oil pressure sensor (another plastic part) and dumped most the oil before she could shut it down. She now has one bent rod and a hole in the case. Looks like we're going to give up on the 1ZZ motors and try a 2ZZ some time in the future. In the meantime she replaced it with an 03 350Z. It's a very nice car but showed a P0300 right out of the chute. Started digging into it and looks like one of the two cats is completely gutted - just a few pieces rattling around. The other, surprisingly is in pristine shape. Somebody must have miswired something on that bank to cause just that one cat to go bad.

    Anyhow, you can guess what I'll be working on for at least the next couple of weekends.
     
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  4. SHOdded

    SHOdded SHO Member

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    Such is the life of the designated home mechanic :) Need to drive BORING cars from now on!
     
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  5. 3d914

    3d914 Well-Known Member

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    Waiting on parts for the Z. So continuing to work on the 914 trunk lid - to finish up the welding and seams. Then will get the reinforcements added before cutting out the NACA ducts.

    Keepin at it.
     
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  6. 3d914

    3d914 Well-Known Member

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    OK, still working on trunk mods; NACA ducts, support frame (for new hinge), and finish work for raised section.

    I was able to cut up some spare trunk lids for ribs, although they will require some slight rebending but nothing drastic. This of course needs to be coordinated with the placement of the hinge supports and hinges in the trunk and the air box.

    [​IMG]

    I've trimmed the plastic NACA ducts on a couple sides to center them up and get their longitudinal dimension from the rear edge of the lid.

    Right NACA duct:

    [​IMG]

    Left NACA duct:

    [​IMG]
     
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  7. SHOdded

    SHOdded SHO Member

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    Looking good!
     
  8. 3d914

    3d914 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks
     
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  9. EarlyBroncoGuy

    EarlyBroncoGuy New Member

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    New here, but wanted to say great thread - I've been working on putting a 3.0 into a '66 912 off and on over the past few years, and have encountered many of the same obstacles you have (engine height, no clearance for throttle body, etc), but slightly different, since the engine compartment in the 911/912 is huge compared to a 914. Plenty of length and width, but the throttle body either requires a cutout decklid and huge whaletail for clearance, or rotate the intake 180 degrees and a large hole in the firewall with the throttle body protruding into the rear sear area. I really want to keep the clean factory body lines and not go with a whaletail, I had planned on deleting the rear seats anyway so if I can fabricate an airbox on the inside of the firewall that's insulated from the interior and fed cool air from intakes mounted at the rear corners of the 1/4 windows (similar to the latest creation from Singer) I may go that way.

    The 912 engine mount brackets are much like a 911's, but instead of being at the rear corners of the engine bay they are about 3/4 of the way back along the sides. I used an aftermarket tubular crossmember that's sold for transmission swaps that has a large bend that goes under the SHO oil pan, and I fabricated mounts to bolt to the bolt holes on the side of the SHO block. Before I discovered Kennedy Emgineering produces adapter plates to bolt the SHO block to the Porsche 901 trans, I made my own out of 5/8" thick aluminum plate.

    A couple of questions:

    Does the Kennedy adapter plate clear the block breather cover that's bolted to the rear of the SHO block?

    Does the 3.2 water pump pulley bolt to a 3.0 water pump? I won't be using a power steering pump or A/C compressor, so I want to mount the alternator down low where the compressor sits, and just have one 6 rib belt running from the crank up to the water pump over to the alternator, over the tensioner, and back around the crank. Since the 3.2 water pump pulley is 6 rib and does not have the offset of the 4 rib 3.0 pulley, if it will bolt to the water pump flange that would solve that problem.
     
  10. 3d914

    3d914 Well-Known Member

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    BroncoGuy, sounds like a cool project. I hope you post some info and pictures on this forum for us to follow.

    In answer to your questions; 1) If you're referring to the upper breather cover (between the heads) - then yes the Kennedy adapter clears that. What it doesn't cover is the lower flywheel where the stock SHO has a small metal shield - which I still need to find or make. 2) The water pump pulleys are interchangeable (IIRC) but the offsets are different for belt alignment. I had an issue with that earlier because my WP housing was from 3.0 so I had to swap the front of the housing with a 3.2 version. Found a posting for that here on this forum.

    Regards,

    Gerard
     
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  11. EarlyBroncoGuy

    EarlyBroncoGuy New Member

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    The cast aluminum plate that bolts to the back of the block and around the crank, appears to be mainly there as a block breather. It protrudes from the block just enough to keep a flat plate from fitting up against the rear block face. I was wondering if the Kennedy adapter plate has a pocket to clear it or not.

    If the 3.0/3.2 waterpump pullies have the same bolt pattern, that will work with what I'm tryng to do - get rid of the 4 rib belt and just use one 6 rib belt to run the water pump and (slightly relocated) alternator, no power steering or a/c compressor.
     
    Last edited: Dec 15, 2017
  12. 3d914

    3d914 Well-Known Member

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    BroncoGuy, OK, I recall that plate now. There were no interferance issues with the plate, so there must have been a pocket for it. You should be safe there.
     
  13. EarlyBroncoGuy

    EarlyBroncoGuy New Member

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    Took a few photos of the 912 SHO project, still working on rear mounts to connect the crossmember under the engine to the factory Porsche engine mounts. Nose of the trans is factory 912 trans mount, Engine lid clears upper intake, but crossover tube had to go. Clearance is tightest at rear of cylinder heads, but they clear the framerail by about a fingers' width. Waterpump pulley is a 3.2 pulley on a 3.0 pump, bolt pattern is the same and gives me the correct offset to run a single 6 rib belt for the crank, waterpump, and alternator. The throttle body flange on the intake is right up against the firewall, looks like I'll have to cut a hole, have the throttle body where the rear seat backs used to be, and fabricate an enclosed air box that will be fed outside air from the ducts located in the Lexan rear 1/4 windows. I could turn the intake 180 degrees, but that would put the throttle body several inches outside the engine lid.

    IMG_0633.JPG IMG_0645.JPG IMG_0629.JPG IMG_0639.JPG IMG_0640.JPG IMG_0632.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2018
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  14. itwonder

    itwonder SHO Master

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    Fabricate custom crossover tube to clear lid? Could TB be turned 90 degrees with custom fitting? Just thinking outside the box. Amazing the motor fits that well.
     
  15. 3d914

    3d914 Well-Known Member

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    BroncoGuy, thats awesome. I too am surprised it fits so well. It's good you have those rear 1/4 windows to feed intake air. Obviously this something of a street rod. I probably would have gone more radical and turned the intake 180deg out the back, built a scoop to catch the high pressure air coming down the back of the car. But that is a tight spot to do all that t-body stuff + get good smooth air flow. Your method will likely function better.

    Bob, would he even need that side of cross-over tube? Why not just cap the ends? You still have good flow to all runners and sufficient volume.
     
  16. 3d914

    3d914 Well-Known Member

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    Just an update since I haven't been out here in a while. The 914-SHO is currently in storage. My daughter wants to complete a 2ZZ engine swap in her MR2 to replace the failed 1ZZ motor. So for the few months this might take (also doing other upgrades) I needed the extra garage space. Be back soon.
     
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