Discussion in 'Tuning ~ Supercharger ~ Turbo ~ Nitrous Upgrades' started by Axianator, Dec 15, 2005.
but this is the only thread that comes up when I hit the new posts button.
3 Year Bump!
It's a shame this wasn't finished.
Such a waste.
Your spot on. Google told me everything.
That's where I started. I also have moved on to other things and dealing with another dick of a tuner here has changed my state of mind on sharing information.
i had my tweecer for over a year now and i feel like i know nothing about it i only know i got my car running with the few mods i have but i have no idea where to start to gain more power or to alow for boost
What ever happened to this guy?
In short, he moved on to bigger and better things.
okay so who all still is working with a tweecer? i know i still am and im getting used to it and im trying to help out a friend with an atx sho converted to an mtx im not sure what base line to start with the x2j or the d4u1. it would be great to keep this going and alive im willing to help as much as i can
I am but I don't get what your saying, do you have a issue with the swap? I'm sure you've already looked at these, you don't need a tweecer to make the swap.
Now, if its an issue with tuning the car to eek out more power or you are boosted and can't get the car to run, plenty of threads on that as well.
the car was the 3.2 atx now is a 3.2 mtx with the atx wire harness and i thought the tweecer ghosts over the ecu so instead of swaping the harness and putting an mtx computer in couldnt you just set up the tweecer with the x2j and tune it for the 3.2 or are all the sensors different?
I'm sure you can use that harness and ECU but it will take a few tricks to make the engine think the trans is still in it. Ideally you would just swap the trans, write a X2J to the ATX ECU using tweecer but I don't think that will work. You have to make a few wiring mods to get it working with the dash, starter etc.
Those threads have a lot of good information, even a few current threads where people are doing the same swap are not using a tweecer, so read those threads, get the car running in its stock form then start tuning. I suggest getting a wideband before you start doing WOT tuning.
the car runs and drives so im sure he had done the mods to it but i just wasnt sure what route had to be taken to start tuning it for further mods im just trying to give him a hand getting it running with the tweecer and removing the egr code so he can do whatever else he plans on doing with the car
If you look on page 22 of the User Guide.pdf when you installed tweecer that's a great place to start, as it states in the User Guide, you want concentrate the following Functions, this is going off of X2J, I don't any experience with the D4U1 but hopefully ATX guys can apply some of the info in the guide:
MAF transfer function,
Injector Offset vs. Battery Voltage
Cranking Fuel Pulsewidth
WOT Spark Advance vs. RPM
injector slope (HIGH/LOW)
Time @ High Load to Force OL (Open Loop)
WOT TPS Breakpoint Voltage
Fuel Table -Startup
Fuel Table- Stabilized
Spark Table SeaLevel
Spark Table Altitude
Now the critical highly debated issue is to turn ON or to turn OFF adaptive fuel trim, I'm for turning it off because that's the way SHONUT taught me, so go to the scalars, set ACT Maximum for Adaptive Control to 0, Act Minimum For Adaptive Control to 254. Then once you start logging you'll see the adaptive fuel trim (KAMRF1 and KAMRF2) is always 1.000 so no need to payload that.
So you can decide either turn it off until your turn is perfect and then turn it on. Or leave it on and let the ECU trim the fuel for you, which basically means any changes you make to make the car run, say richer, the ECU will take it right back to where it wants to, in most cases it will lean out your tune. I don't want that because I want it to run rich, so I turn the adaptive control off.
Exact words from the User Guide
"For working on the dyno, it is recommended that you disable the adaptive fuel so you when you are trying to dial in the air meter transfer function, you are not using correction that it has learned."
Feel free to post any comments or suggestions, its always good to have them if it prevents someone from detonating an engine. I don't mind changing anything as long as it makes sense.
okay so i had never heard of turning off the adaptive fuel trim and when i updated my computer i havent been able to open the user guide i did have it slightly tuned but never tried to max my power out of it none of my friends got into tuning their own they just pay someone else to do it id gladly take any hints or recondmendations for tuning my own
If you choose to tune with adaptive one, you use the fuel trims to gauge how you scale the injectors in. Either is no harder than the other. I have always left it on. I use fuel trims for tuning Subaru's and Honda's as well. With those, I am able to apply a threshold to ensure no learned values are applied during WOT.
Once I am able to clear all the codes I'll start looking into tweecking my tune more for performance I did start reading up on the users guide that I finally got to open for me and they were talking about adjusting spark tables to get more power but couldn't find the ones they mentioned in the guide
I just picked up a 95 sho, which mod should I do first? Buy that tweecer and the bigger maf sensor?
Negative, unless you happen to already know how to tune a TwEECer. Get a high flow Y-pipe and you won't regret it. More horsepower, cheaper and no learning curve to install.
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