For those who know about this table, I refer to the V8 SHO page site : http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/SHOSwayBarsSuspension.htm I compiled some more advices and make more measurements which they are not on the first table. Few bars and combinations are not present in the first table too and it’s why I make this update. In the same way, these notes illustrate how the stock configuration it’s not appropriate for the weight repartition of the Gen 3 (V8 + auto transmission + front drive wheels) which is about 60-66% on the front and 33-40% on the rear. The stiffness of a bar can be obtain by this easier way : K = (diameter in mm x 500 000)4 (exponent 4) / 63 782 791 699 295 223 179 326 546, 59 For example, the aftermarket adjustable rear bar from SHO Shop of 29 mm (not in production anymore) had a K of 693.1 and is 543 % stiffer than the stock 19mm. (!) Others bars can be found like front 23mm and 25mm bars and rear 25mm and 28mm bars. Lots of combinations are possible with all this variety. The evaluation of the balance between bars is based on the ratio of the stiffness (K) between the front sway bar and the rear sway bar (Ratio = K fsb/ K rsb). The comments are optimized for Gen 3 SHO cars with SARC system but with no other modification on suspension or wheels with summer conditions. You must note that some bigger bars can generate lots of vibrations and noises (NVH) with the stiff electronic suspension of this generation (96-98/12). The stiffer combinations will be better for summer conditions or track conditions. Many others elements can make changes too (based on many comments I rode) : Stiffer frame = + oversteer (Gen 3 SHO stock frame) Stiffer suspension = + oversteer Harder rear tire pressure = + overteer Low profile tires (17 inches and higher) = + overteer Aluminium subframe bushings = - understeer (+ oversteer ?) Front tower brace = - understeer (+ oversteer ?) With these modifications already on your car, think to put a smaller rear bar if you want a good balance. For exemple, Stephen Newberg has at least three of them and he still have oversteer with a 24mm/23mm combination... (see above). According to what I rode on the net, here is one of the better (and the shorter) explanations I found : "As for safety, production cars are designed to understeer at the limit because it is a stabilizing characteristic. Regardless of what the driver does (increase steer angle, increase braking), the car will plow (understeer) until the radius of the turn is large enough that the grip from the front tires is sufficient to keep the car turning at that radius. Oversteer is an unstable reaction, where the car will continue to spin unless the driver reacts appropriately (countersteer, less brakes). Steady state oversteer is a bad thing, ideally you want a neutral car that will oversteer on the application of power (from the rear wheels). You could setup your FWD to oversteer at the limit and learn to control it by applying power to the front wheels, but for a street (winter) driven car I would stick to neutral steer or a slight amount of understeer." from : http://forums.beyond.ca/showthread/t-231732.html Feel free to leave your comments on your configuration and the feeling it's giving.