started polishing my intake, question for those that have done this

Discussion in 'Gen 1 & 2 - Wheels, Tires, Interior, Body, and Cos' started by TheKrazyRaven, May 19, 2005.

  1. TheKrazyRaven

    TheKrazyRaven 4 8 15 16 23 42

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    i was planning on doing the tanks white, realised how dirty it would get being white in an engine bay

    anyway i got a bad run in the end tank so i needed to strip it anyway


    i took a wire brush wheel on a high RPM drill to get everything off and sanded it a bit and got this result

    [​IMG]

    am i going about this the right way? is there another step here or there i'm missing?
     
  2. SASHO91

    SASHO91 Zoom Zoom

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    you know who to talk to!!! :doh:
    *cough* other woman *cough*
    :wink:
     
  3. TheKrazyRaven

    TheKrazyRaven 4 8 15 16 23 42

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    i dont think in a MILLION years i could get mine that perfect
     
  4. SHOtimer

    SHOtimer #2910

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    The "Other Woman" intake was bought on ebay, it was not polished by a forum member. IIRC, Tom said the guy hand polished the whole thing.

    Doug
     
  5. NJSHO

    NJSHO Clean Your Shorts!

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    3 step process
    1. Start sanding
    2. When your fingers start to hurt and you are only on 400 grit realize it is way too much work
    3. Paint it.
    Really though the process for starting the polishing is a great prep for paint.
     
  6. TheKrazyRaven

    TheKrazyRaven 4 8 15 16 23 42

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    i had the tanks white, but i wanna do polished tanks and blue runners and valve covers which are done
     
  7. Off Road SHO

    Off Road SHO Moderator Staff Member

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    It is a LOT OF WORK.

    Some helpfull hints: grind or cut and sand off every little bump, flange or casting seam BEFORE you take it to a polishing company.

    Take a sample of "how" polished you want it with you to the polishing company.

    Separate everything and completely clean everything before you go.

    Hand them the snakes only first and ask how much. Thenafter he quotes, bring out the plenum and endtank and finally the valve covers. After seeing the snakes, everything else will be easy for him and he'll give you a lower price on the rest.

    Polish all bolts that attach to polished parts.

    Powdercoat the butterfly housings gloss black or Ferrari red, don't try and have them polished.

    Use new intake runner silicone hoses and polish the hose clamps yourself.

    Wear soft cotton gloves (new ones) when assembling everything.

    Buy one of the last 8 polished billet aluminum "YAMAHA" upper timing covers from me so I don't have to keep eating dry dog food. ;)

    Tom
     
  8. marvsho17

    marvsho17 Joshua S.

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    I thought the upper billet timing covers were atx only?
     
  9. SHOnuff93

    SHOnuff93 SHO Member

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    those timing covers tom has are atx only. tom didnt know there was a difference when he had them made up. Too bad because i really think the mtx covers would have sold a little better
     
  10. Off Road SHO

    Off Road SHO Moderator Staff Member

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    Wurd.
     
  11. New to the SHO

    New to the SHO PopGoesTheWeasel

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    I have spent about 23 hours or so sanding mine, and I have done the primairy runners, the front tank that has SHO on it, the side with the DIS mod on it and half of a valve cover... I sanded it and I am painting it, looks really great in the end.
     
  12. TheKrazyRaven

    TheKrazyRaven 4 8 15 16 23 42

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    i did the valve covers and runners last summer

    [​IMG]
     
  13. TheKrazyRaven

    TheKrazyRaven 4 8 15 16 23 42

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    finally got that cross over done after a long week (friends dad died)

    here it is on the engine, it looks like crap in the pic becaue of the terrable lighting in my garage, and its rainy out today. i'll get a shot of it in the sun later this week

    [​IMG]

    the tanks are gonna be SOOOOOOOOO much fun
     
  14. Jonny Cash

    Jonny Cash Good boy

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    Did you get all the gaskets already? You should do it while its all apart. Let me know cuz I might use the ones I have.
     
  15. TheKrazyRaven

    TheKrazyRaven 4 8 15 16 23 42

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    yeah i think i might buy those from you too if you dont use them

    i have a spare manifold that i'm polishing so my car wont have down time :thumb:


    i HOPE to have it all done together and 60k'ed by fun ford weekend
     
  16. TheKrazyRaven

    TheKrazyRaven 4 8 15 16 23 42

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    finished the front tank today

    [​IMG]
     
  17. LOUDSHO92

    LOUDSHO92 SHO Master Staff Member Sponsoring Vendor Club Mod

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    What grit are you using? If you go to a finer grit it will have more shine.

    Here is a really good post that will help out: Polishing
     
  18. TheKrazyRaven

    TheKrazyRaven 4 8 15 16 23 42

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    i'm finishing with 2k grit, its really shiny actully

    for some reason it wont show up in pics
     
  19. SHOWYA

    SHOWYA TurboSHO Member

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    I think you still need to do alittle bit more sanding ... this is 2 weeks worth of work.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Here is a small write up i did for 2 people that emailed me about how to do it ...

    " Well, so you guys know its going to take some time to get the manifold looking all polished like mine ... about 2 weeks to be exact, and this was dedicating around 3 hrs after work to do it right.

    Do your self a favor and buy this kit ... http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/...DUCT&iMainCat=433&iSubCat=436&iProductID=1000

    Thats what i started with ... you will need a drill or a high speed die- grinder (to attach the buffs) for the buffing. Try to buy the 3" and 4" buffs (3 of each atleast) also with the wheel arbor adapter needed. If you dont want to buy these small 4" buffs you can buy them at your local Harbor freight.

    To start sand down all surfaces with 320 grit sand paper use the sanding rolls on the kit for the tight areas. Then continue to sand down till sirfaces are flat ( the flatter the better for the first sanding ). The do the same all over again with 400 grit, then again with 600 grit. As you go finer in the grits then you'll begin to notice that the aluminum actually starts to shine *** you go.

    Sand again with 800 in wet sanding paper. Yes you will your hands wet. FORGOT ... USE PLASTIC GLOVES AND SOMEKIND OF PARTICLE MASK (buy at wallmart ... for mask buy 3M brand!). Beleive me you dont want to blow your nose and see black because of the aluminum.

    For the wetsanding a spray bottle with water will help ... keep the surface wet as you sand.

    Re-wetsand with 1000 grit and again with 1500.

    Once you are done with the 1500 wet sand and you dry the part you will see the part becoming shiny yet scratched up making it a lil dull at the same time.

    Clean and dry all your parts and start using the buffs ... start the 4" buff on the big areas with the TRIPOLY BAR and you will see it take immediate shine. Use the cones for the small tight areas the same. Then wipedown and use the WHITEROUGE bar .... use a new buff with this one, it gives it the hi-gloss.

    and thats it!!

    They do sell a vid on how to buff on that site. It is very usefull ... buy it! Hope everything turns out nice!

    Remember dont rush the the sanding meaning, just a pass or two wont do! Take your time and sand completly. This is the most important part of the polishing, it will show on the finished pieces!"


    Thought it would be usefull KrazyRaven. :thumb:

    My best advise is to take it to a proffessional and let them do it like Off Road SHO says!
     
  20. TheKrazyRaven

    TheKrazyRaven 4 8 15 16 23 42

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    sweet jesus, my EYES!

    mine shines nice, but you just really cant tell in that picture


    but i dont do anything all day so this project is right up my ally
     

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