Spark plugs and intake gaskets

Discussion in 'V8 Discussion' started by Pablo sho, Nov 27, 2018.

  1. Pablo sho

    Pablo sho SHO Member

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    Ok. Tore I to my valve cover today. Only took a few hours to get apart. Not near as bad as I read. Anyway wondering what everyone is running for plugs and did you replace gaskets on air intake?
     
  2. Pablo sho

    Pablo sho SHO Member

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    Well I went with autolites. Still wondering about intake. Also I got the wrong spark plug seals. Got to go back and figure out what happened there. Then also looks like there may be a seal on the center bolt?
     
  3. GEN 3 SHO FAN

    GEN 3 SHO FAN SHO Member

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    I used Iridium NGK. I'm running them from 3 years now with no problems. Iridium last longer and give a little nervosity on engine response from my personnal experience (in a margin of 5-10%) and offer less electrical resistance (as some said).

    I re-used all the intake gaskets when I did this job. The only one in this area that can be damaged over time is the IAC one made from some kind of paper. I put high temp silicone on the ones for the lower intake (some rust on them).

    Take care to do not lost the EGR one when rebolting, it's small and it can fall without noticing it when rebolting the valve to the surge tank.

    Watch also for your camshaft seal (waterpump) is bad, it can lost a good quantity of oil too.
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2018
  4. stephen newberg

    stephen newberg Moderator Staff Member

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    I also use Iridium NGK and have had no problems with them after several years.

    pax, smn
     
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  5. 98SF19

    98SF19 AlphaKennyBuddy

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    I was in there back in January-February and you might benefit from the thread I started as there was input from others directly related to what you are doing. I also removed all butterfly secondary assemblies from LIM, which was not bad at all (no drilling needed, just some JB weld); also cleaned up valves, measured valve clearances, and scoped cylinders.

    It's a bit of a PITA, but would behoove you to replace injectors at this point if you're running originals still. I just had a diag done on dirty girl and although the non-dealer shop said they had comm issues, the fuel pressure was legit (low end of spec) and she idles evenly which tells me COPS are ok. IAC and TPS are fairly new, and though MAF is original, I cleaned it recently. I plan on going to dealer to see if they have proprietary methods for looking further, but at this point, I'm thinking that injectors are underperforming, hopefully to the extent that it will show up on diag log. The possibility exists that after having driven my F150 3.5 EB around, it leaves the impression that my SHO is low on power, whereas it might just be the normal different between the two (3.5 EBs have balls the gen3's can only dream about). Anyway, sorry for the rant.
     
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  6. stephen newberg

    stephen newberg Moderator Staff Member

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    I have the same problem when driving any of our vehicles after having just driven in the 911 C4S. Suddenly everything else seems low powered and slow. Its these relative comparisons that fool you easily, it seems to me.

    pax, smn
     
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  7. luigisho

    luigisho SHO Member

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    Also run of the mill cars over the last 10 yrs are about as fast or faster, so really the GenI-III could all use an extra 100hp
     
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  8. stephen newberg

    stephen newberg Moderator Staff Member

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    Very true. We just bought a replacement for out 2005 Jimmy for our road trips, which frequently end up in spots where there are no roads. Its a 2017 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk and it has 271 hp and 239 ftlbs for torque. So, an off road Jeep that has more horses than the Gen III and, though I have not timed it, seems by seat of the pants to be almost as fast, if not equal.

    Time moves on.

    pax, smn
     
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  9. Pablo sho

    Pablo sho SHO Member

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    My gen2 seemed much snappier than my gen3. I dont know about faster. I have never been brave enough to take either to the limit. I haven't driven in any newer cars to compare.
     
  10. GEN 3 SHO FAN

    GEN 3 SHO FAN SHO Member

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    2 points :

    Hp calculation had changed since 1999, but I don't remember in which direction... I also remarked that I can follow and sometimes pass cars like Kia Optima with 2.0L turbo (265 hp) and some Subaru WRX (265-275 hp). This with only some little mods.

    Gen 2 is faster all know this, but the feelling seems even greater because the ride is rougher than in a Gen 3 (stiffer suspension, less noise isolation, etc.)
     
  11. Pablo sho

    Pablo sho SHO Member

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    I like the gen 2 look. I may see about trading for one when I get it back together.
     
  12. ZackO

    ZackO New Member

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    Hey guys, sorry to bother but I'm new to the forums. Looking to purchase a 97 SHO (228k miles for 1100) and it's burning a lot of oil from what the owner says is the valve cover gasket (I've done one on my old Audi a3 i4 and eclipse i4 but never a V8, so I'm sure this would be a Decently harder job). Does anyone have a link to a write-up/video on how to get to it? Preferably video, in still fairly new to cars. Also, besides from spark plugs and getting some upper cylinder head cleaner in through the spark plug Chambers, any recommendations on what else to do? Thanks!
     
  13. SHOZ123

    SHOZ123 SHO Member

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    It's not terribly hard. The biggest issue are the surge tank braces IIRC. Especially the one on the driver side.

    Loosen one side of the surge tank coupler clamps. Take the surge tank braces off, loosen the bottom bolt, remove the top. Then remove the surge tank and pipes with couplers. This just leaves the pipes attached to the secondaries.

    You will need to clean the secondary plates and shafts as they usually get pretty carboned up. The secondary intake valve will be pretty bad too.

    Once this is out of the way then the valve covers are pretty easy. I've never bought new ones but there could be a failure I guess. I have a set of used gaskets.

    Put a dab of silicone where the head and block and valve cover meet. The valve cover bolts will snap very easily as they are bottomed out when properly installed.
     
  14. ZackO

    ZackO New Member

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    So, by a dab of silicone, do you mean around the whole gasket? Or just in one area? And on both sides of the gasket? Sorry for my incompetence.
     
  15. SHOZ123

    SHOZ123 SHO Member

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    A dab on the head/timing cover joint. Anywhere two machined pieces of aluminum meet. Only on the aluminum surfaces.
     
  16. ZackO

    ZackO New Member

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    Ahh, didn't realize there were bare metal surfaces touching each other like that, definitely needs some silicone then. Lol. Thanks!
     

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