Some Tips I Learned Installing the DriveBright DRL Kit

Discussion in 'Generation 4 - Exterior Mods' started by Matt M PA, Jun 24, 2018.

  1. Matt M PA

    Matt M PA SHO Member

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    I handled my DriveBright DRL installation over the weekend. While it took a bit longer than expected…no doubt due to my OCD…I’m pleased with the results. I thought it might be a good idea to pass along some of the things I did.

    But first, a quick comment about Dan, from DriveBright. During my installation, I couldn't find the headlight wire required for the dimming circuit. I left a message realizing that I was past his normal business hours on a Saturday. Within minutes, a return phone call came and Dan gave me the information I needed. The car wasn't drivable as it was, so this was a huge help. Thanks Dan!

    First, I found it helpful to remove each front wheel to allow better access into the front bumper. I also removed the lower splashpan for access from beneath. It's only a matter of five clips, and handful of screws, but I think it made the job much easier.

    I also didn't like the idea of mounting the control box under the hood. I couldn't really find a spot I liked, and found a good spot on top of the driver’s side frame rail, towards the very end. This did require lengthening both the fuse tap wire for the courtesy light harness, as well as the power lead that went to the battery. I found a good ground point by loosening the bolt that holds the horns bracket, and placing the ground wire connection underneath that bolt

    The fuse tap. Looking inside the fuse box, I can only assume that this fuse box is used for more cars than just the Taurus. There are many locations that are not used, and do not have a metal "circuit board" underneath. I passed the wire through one of the unused fuse holes and out the bottom. I thought this would make a more tidy installation.

    I decided to run the wiring to the passenger side lamp across the front, above the radiator. There is other wiring in that location to which you can secure the harness. I should mention that I wrapped all harnesses and wires in convoluted wire loom. In my opinion, this not only protects the wire but also makes for more OEM look.

    While some may choose to not use the dimming circuit, for those that do, the headlight wire is easily seen high up in the fender. It is visible when looking from inside the fender with the fender liner pulled back. (Thanks again for that, Dan.)

    Finally, a word about removing the bezels. That was more difficult than I expected. I did figure 2 tricks that helped. (It’s important to know that the bezels have a number of tabs with a “wedge”. The pointy side of the wedge goes in first, and they retain the bezel with the flat side.) The first was to use a stubby, big bladed screwdriver to push the attaching tabs from the rear. However, a few wouldn't budge. I wound up taking a very small screwdriver, and pressed it between the bumper and the “wedge” part of the clip. Then, rotated the screwdriver down and pushed it slightly into the hole in the bumper. This seemed to help as it worked like a ramp to allow the tab to come out.

    I also had an issue where something didn’t work. Turned out the tap wasn’t piercing the wire to which it was being connected.

    On final note…the car has a clear bra and I had a few pieces of the material remaining. I trimmed a couple pieces and applied to the DRLs prior to install.

    Wow…if you made it this far…thanks for reading. I hope it helps someone with their installation. I think these are a great upgrade that looks and works like it came from the factory.
     

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  2. 2011TAURUSSEL

    2011TAURUSSEL 2014 SHO LMS Stage 1 V10

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    Sounds pretty much like my install I had to remove the driver wheel and inner fender splash shield. For the passengers side I believe I was able to just turn the wheel all the way to the right and a couple of clips on the fender splash shield. Ditto on the lower valance splash shield. I ran the passengers side along the inside fender frame under the coolant reservoir I believe. I had enough wire to run parallel with the strut cross tower brace. Zip-Tie and wire looms highly recommended. I used the extra fuse tap per Dan Smiths recommendations. Dan also helped me at odd hours too. I had an issue with needing clarification on a wiring step. I called and was expecting to wait until the following Monday but he called back about 20 minutes later.
     
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  3. 2011TAURUSSEL

    2011TAURUSSEL 2014 SHO LMS Stage 1 V10

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    I got to say Matt I love that color. Is that Blue Jean or the 2017 Blue?
     
  4. Matt M PA

    Matt M PA SHO Member

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    2011TaurusSEL...thanks. It's the 2018 blue. Creatively named by Ford...metallic blue.
     
  5. sub_ETCS_ret

    sub_ETCS_ret New Member

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    Good to hear yours went well because I also installed mine this weekend and I am having issues with them flickering in amber. I've checked and rechecked and all of my wiring is good. I called and emailed Dan but haven't heard back yet. I hear he is quick to respond but I haven't had that luck yet.
     
  6. Matt M PA

    Matt M PA SHO Member

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    Is it doing the same thing on both sides with the flickering? If not, I'd wonder is one of the quick connects isn't making good contact.
     
  7. sub_ETCS_ret

    sub_ETCS_ret New Member

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    Both sides and when I put the hazards on it flickers white and amber quickly. Almost gave me a seizure. Lol

    It's solid and working until I start the car. So it's either a power issue or something in the control box isn't filtering properly.
    Sent from my VS500 using Tapatalk
     
  8. Lostneye

    Lostneye SHO Member

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    Thanks Matt. Sounds more involved than I thought to do it the right way. I guess I'm holing off for longer than I thought. New plugs and SYNC3 are ahead in line.
     
  9. 2011TAURUSSEL

    2011TAURUSSEL 2014 SHO LMS Stage 1 V10

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    Lost, remember this trick for the Plugs.....Loosen and set aside the Strut Tower Cross Brace and that socket/extension combo from AutoZone I mentioned before. Loosening and setting aside the cross brace will make the rear bank of plugs go MUCH quicker. The rear bank literally took about five minutes to remove and replace. The socket/extension combo is 5/8th deep and the extension is built into the socket. The design allows a little movement around a internal ball joint but keeps the extension from slipping off the socket as many tend to do when removing the plug. Don't forget the Anti-Seize for the threads.

    for SYNC3...………………………………… www.4dtech.com

    They have a YouTube video for install and ironically enough it is a Taurus for the video example.
     
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  10. sub_ETCS_ret

    sub_ETCS_ret New Member

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    I'm trying to figure out where you mounted that control box. I'm looking at the picture and can't figure out that location. Is that looking through the wheel well or under the air intake?
     
  11. Matt M PA

    Matt M PA SHO Member

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    The picture of the control box was taken with my phone from inside the bumper.(I removed the splash panel underneath the radiator.) It's mounted on the top of the driver's side frame rail. If you can see the horns....just come down the sheet metal to the frame rail. It's mounted on the flat spot of the rail...not quite the verity end.

    From there, the wiring comes straight up and into the engine compartment on the outside of the frame rail just forward of the fuse panel. Easily accessed with the airbox removed.

    I originally planned to mount under the air box, but found this location. It's not visible even with the air box removed. Has to be seen by looking inside the bumper either through the wheel house liner or from underneath.
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2018
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  12. sub_ETCS_ret

    sub_ETCS_ret New Member

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    Got it. Thanks!

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
     
  13. OmaHahn

    OmaHahn SHO Member

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    Good write up but you went through a lot more steps than I did and I have OCD bad! I never removed wheels, or fender guards or splash guards or whatever. I like your idea to use wire loom. These lights do look OEM, love them especially the amber turn signals.
     
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  14. sub_ETCS_ret

    sub_ETCS_ret New Member

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    I have pretty bad OCD as well. I actually ordered waterproof connectors and added them to all the wires in case I wanted to remove it without rewiring. I threw some tubing over my wires. I also threw some liquid electrical tape over the splice connectors.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
     
  15. 2011TAURUSSEL

    2011TAURUSSEL 2014 SHO LMS Stage 1 V10

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    You sound like me I connect, tape each individual wire, then the bundle, then the wiring loom and then tape and Zip-Ties over the Wiring loom.
     
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