Secondaries issue, cooling fan

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Hey guys, so i have a 95 mtx with a col air flow intake. 1. i have a problem with the secondaies bogging bad at 4k like it cant rev higher. 2. Also my cooling fan will not come on with ac on or off. I rescued this car from the previous owners severe neglect. To try to fix the problem i replaced a few vacumm lines and cleaned the act sensor, maf and replaced the ect sensor( the one that sends a signal to the pcm). Please help guys.
 

SHOdded

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Welcome to the forum, and wish you well with this project. The two things that spring to mind immediately are the CCRM (for the fan) and sticking butterflies (for the bogging over 4K).
 
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The butterflys do open from what i feel theyjust take awhile. Should i tear apart the intake and clean it of is there a different way. Im afraid i wont be able to replace the gaskets if i tear it apart.
 

zoomlater

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The CCRM is located above the radiator. It is a black box and should have a "D" on top of it and a large connector going to it. You may have to take off the plastic panel over the radiator to see it
 
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Got it, is there a way to isolate test it with a multi meter? Thanks alot for the help guys and gals, awesome forum.
 

SHOdded

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There used to be a schematic of the CCRM in this thread, but there's still some useful info:
http://www.shoforum.com/index.php?t...m-or-troubleshooting-electrical-wiring.67572/

Schematics for the '91 & ATX here:
http://www.shoforum.com/index.php?threads/914-sho-ccrm-diodes.124512/

Another schematic (unsure which year, but for the MTX):
http://rockledge.home.comcast.net/~rockledge/RangerPictureGallery/SHO/CCRMSchematic.html
You must be registered for see images


Many more useful diagrams provided graciously by SHOZ123 (Paul Nimz) here:
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/1647/21945
 
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That image is worthy of gold. Thank you very much SHOdded and paul nimz. Could this also be why when the engine is cold it feels like the secondaries stick far less. Once cold, they feel almost as if the work 100%. I will make a video tomorrow morning of the check engine light flashing and hopefully someone can instruch me on the correct way to read it. Most cars i had didnt have a check engine light. Thanks tremendously for all the help. Cant say it enough, new to forums and having help troubleshooting. Its deffinatly not like a sbc or even in the world with the single cam v8s.
 

SHOdded

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Code list for the 92-95
http://web.archive.org/web/20090429123516/http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/code3.htm
As far as reading the code from the check engine light, it will blink out the number (3 times in rapid succession for a 3, for example), then pause, then move on to the next number. Be sure to record the flashes if you can't keep up with them, easier that way I think.

Beginner's Guide: Checking the Engine Trouble Codes

http://web.archive.org/web/20090917070939/http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/eec.htm

There is more info on the site that is "solid gold" for the SHO crowd, so be sure to check it out. It's the part of the Owners Manual that Ford forgot :)
 
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Does anyone know of a seal i can either buy or make for the sunroof. Mine is falling apart and i dont want it to leak and destroy my interior anymore than it is. Perhaps i should have made a new post, i just didnt want to post a few threads and spam the site.
 

rubydist

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counting the cel blinks is a little more challenging with the abs light blinking right next to it...
here is the interpretation of the blinking:
current codes:
111 - no current faults.
1-flash separater
stored codes:
157 - mafs circuit below minimum voltage
172 - lean on right (rear) bank

you also have airbag code 42 - open circuit on the driver's front primary crash sensor.
note that the airbag system will not work (not deploy) when the light is flashing.

you will need to determine if the mafs is bad or if the connector is loose/bad, but it will not run right if it does not know how much air is going into the engine.

once that is fixed, you can reset the codes, and see if the 172 returns. if it does, you either have a vacuum leak on the right bank, or (more likely) need to replace the rear oxy sensor.
 
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Thank you. The maf has a piece of tape over the maf sensor connector. This could be why the tape is there. I bought this sho pretty beat up but deffinatly worth my time. My wife hates it but its a great getaway from the everyday rif raff. Not to mention with the secondaries not functioning correctly it still passes fox body mustangs. It is very addicting. Still have to say iconic cars ford made, svt contour, sc thunderbird, taurus sho and lighting sct. Is there anything else i can check for the secondaries besides vacumm leaks..
 

sperold

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On your sunroof topic, the seal you are concerned with, is needed for noise mostly, and not so much for the water getting in. The water gets in no matter what you do. Under (actually around) your sunroof is a drain pan with 4 hoses, one on each corner running down to the bottom of the car. The front two pan hoses dump in the rocker panels and the rear hoses come out behind your rear wheels.

If you have water issues, one of those hoses is clogged. Your best bet is to run a wire (something like an old time speed-o-cable) to clear the clog(s).
 
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On the ccrm topic, im gping to attempt to see if i can see any corrosion around or inside it and hopefully thats all it is so it can buy me some time untill im able to buy a new one. A very large unexpected expense set me back quite far.
 
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