Rotors that won't warp?

Billy VK

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Yeah so, any ideas on a drilled and slotted rotors company that won't have a warping issue from just aggressive city driving? I have rotors now that have a lifetime warranty against it... But you pay shipping to send back for swaps and after doing that twice, I'm ready to try a different company. I like the slotted drilled look so I want to stay with that. Suggestions?
 

fordfanstan

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What brand do you have now? I've always had good luck with Centric rotors, but have not tried them on the SHO.
 

Billy VK

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What brand do you have now? I've always had good luck with Centric rotors, but have not tried them on the SHO.
Performancebreak.com I believe is the company that sells what I have. I believe it's their own brand. I'll look into centric. Thanks. Hard to stop these boats.
 

yaycandy

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I autocross my sho pretty regularly. 4 days ago is the last i went and i have another to do in august at the same lot. I use r1 concepts drilled and slotted and ebc yellow stuff brake pads. I also have stainless flex lines installed. I have no issues with brake warping with r1 concepts, i track a couple cars and always use r1 concepts.

Now i am sponsored by them for my 2 track cars. I get exclusive deals through them, you or anyone can pm me for codes.

I used them way before they sponsored me. And was glad to use their rotors exclusively on my cars
 

Billy VK

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I autocross my sho pretty regularly. 4 days ago is the last i went and i have another to do in august at the same lot. I use r1 concepts drilled and slotted and ebc yellow stuff brake pads. I also have stainless flex lines installed. I have no issues with brake warping with r1 concepts, i track a couple cars and always use r1 concepts.

Now i am sponsored by them for my 2 track cars. I get exclusive deals through them, you or anyone can pm me for codes.

I used them way before they sponsored me. And was glad to use their rotors exclusively on my cars
Oh wow, good info. I may just look in to replacements for the front at this point. Glad to know you have good luck even with tracking the car. Really drives me nuts that I feel like I have to be gentle on what I have. One rip up the highway and stand on the brakes and they are done for it seems. I'll shoot you a message in the next couple weeks for a code if that's ok.
 

yaycandy

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Oh wow, good info. I may just look in to replacements for the front at this point. Glad to know you have good luck even with tracking the car. Really drives me nuts that I feel like I have to be gentle on what I have. One rip up the highway and stand on the brakes and they are done for it seems. I'll shoot you a message in the next couple weeks for a code if that's ok.

Yea your good. The stock rotors warp quick. There is a highway stretch i used to drive everyday to DC and it has a redlight around a bend, on the highway. So 70mph to stopping they really do warp quick.

The EBC pads bite soo hard that i all bout went through the windshield one day while stopping hard lol
 

Billy VK

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Yea your good. The stock rotors warp quick. There is a highway stretch i used to drive everyday to DC and it has a redlight around a bend, on the highway. So 70mph to stopping they really do warp quick.

The EBC pads bite soo hard that i all bout went through the windshield one day while stopping hard lol
Lol good to know.
 

RonPorter

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The rotors are not your problem. They never are. You, nor anyone else, ever "warps" the rotors. It is a pad problem, the pads leave uneven deposits that feel like warping. In all of those cases, you could have a shop do a cleanup pass on them, and they would be fine.

And never buy drilled rotors. I should have created an album of all of the cracked drilled rotors that just SHO people have experienced on our track days.

The "warped rotor" myth just will not die! Folks buy expensive pad/rotor packages, that have better pads, and erroneously attribute the difference to the rotors.

Do yourself a favor. Forget the drilled/grooved/slotted/sprinkled with pixie dust rotors, And get blanks. Then
spend the money on good pads.

I've been doing HPDE track days for 25 years, running Advanced/Instructor class, as have a number of other SHO folks. I have never "warped" any rotors, nor boiled any fluid. Including running my prior white 89 SHO 10 years ago at VIR & BIR with stock calipers and 10.2" rotors. But with $350 of Carbotech XP10/XP8 pads.

Look up Powerstop. Their Z23 & Z26 street packages have the drilled/grooved/impress by buddies on Cruise Night rotors. But......their Track Day package has solid rotors.......
 

regal3SHO1

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Oh wow, good info. I may just look in to replacements for the front at this point. Glad to know you have good luck even with tracking the car. Really drives me nuts that I feel like I have to be gentle on what I have. One rip up the highway and stand on the brakes and they are done for it seems. I'll shoot you a message in the next couple weeks for a code if that's ok.

I have PowerStop drilled/slotted, been happy with them. I've been recommended StopTech by a SHO owner at the local Ford Dealer as well.. haven't tried them though.
 

FREAK_SHO

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The rotors are not your problem. They never are. You, nor anyone else, ever "warps" the rotors. It is a pad problem, the pads leave uneven deposits that feel like warping. In all of those cases, you could have a shop do a cleanup pass on them, and they would be fine.

And never buy drilled rotors. I should have created an album of all of the cracked drilled rotors that just SHO people have experienced on our track days.

The "warped rotor" myth just will not die! Folks buy expensive pad/rotor packages, that have better pads, and erroneously attribute the difference to the rotors.

Do yourself a favor. Forget the drilled/grooved/slotted/sprinkled with pixie dust rotors, And get blanks. Then
spend the money on good pads.

I've been doing HPDE track days for 25 years, running Advanced/Instructor class, as have a number of other SHO folks. I have never "warped" any rotors, nor boiled any fluid. Including running my prior white 89 SHO 10 years ago at VIR & BIR with stock calipers and 10.2" rotors. But with $350 of Carbotech XP10/XP8 pads.

Look up Powerstop. Their Z23 & Z26 street packages have the drilled/grooved/impress by buddies on Cruise Night rotors. But......their Track Day package has solid rotors.......

To echo this, when I was running my '95 full bolt on and cammed MTX, I was running the '96 upgrade. 11.6 rotors front stock rear with carbo tech xp10 up front with Napa pads in the back. I could out break most in my run group, go deeper into the corners which aloud me to carry more speed. I ran centric blank rotors, none of the china crap and the only issue I ever had was stress/ heat cracks after several *track days.
I have not once experienced the "warpped" effect on the '15. Every once in a while I'll take it out, get it up to speed and do a break in type routine, and clean the rotors.

* Road America, Black Hawk Farms, Gingerman & Gratten
 

regal3SHO1

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To echo this, when I was running my '95 full bolt on and cammed MTX, I was running the '96 upgrade. 11.6 rotors front stock rear with carbo tech xp10 up front with Napa pads in the back. I could out break most in my run group, go deeper into the corners which aloud me to carry more speed. I ran centric blank rotors, none of the china crap and the only issue I ever had was stress/ heat cracks after several *track days.
I have not once experienced the "warpped" effect on the '15. Every once in a while I'll take it out, get it up to speed and do a break in type routine, and clean the rotors.

* Road America, Black Hawk Farms, Gingerman & Gratten

All true, the holes and slots give a place for all those gasses and dust to go.. so it isn't collecting. But there are some poorly designed "blank" rotors as well as poorly designed drilled and/or slotted. Metal does warp with excessive heat... if the rotor isn't holding up to the heat of a specific application, it can cause "dips" that can definitely cause vibration.. yet, I agree.. drilled and slotted rotors aren't a "solution", necessarily, to this particular problem.. but getting a quality set of rotors, with or without holes, as well as pads should be a priority if your "standing" on the pedal more frequent than the average driver. IMO
 

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