Redline PTU fluid

Discussion in 'Generation 4 - Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by krewat, Mar 13, 2019.

  1. krewat

    krewat SHO Member

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    Last edited: Mar 13, 2019
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  2. SHOdded

    SHOdded SHO Member Supporting Member

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    Lightweight Lightweight Lightweight ... repeat while twirling until dizzy :nut:

    Covers both 75w140 and 80w90 requirements.
     
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  3. SaveMelMac

    SaveMelMac SHO Member

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    Redline recommends just using there 75w140 to keep in line with the ford oem compatibility. Others have used the shockproof stuff which from what I have seen is more low drag formula You want the lightweight if you go that route
     
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  4. SM105K

    SM105K Land Yacht Pilot Supporting Member

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    Lightweight all day.
     
  5. krewat

    krewat SHO Member

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    Done. thanks guys...
     
  6. SM105K

    SM105K Land Yacht Pilot Supporting Member

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    If you have a 2013+ PP this is the easiest way to change the fluid.

    What I did, what I used, and how I did it. You can do it yourself, or you can have a shop do this.

    I would buy some Redline Lightweight Shockproof fluid off Amazon, 2 and a half feet of 1/4 id rubber fuel hose, some aluminum foil, and this thread to them below.

    https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,8081.msg144207.html#msg144207

    I would bring aluminum foil to cover the downpipes and 02 sensor. Drain the PTU fluid and have them catch the fluid in a pan. Measure to see how much comes out, and the how bad shape the fluid is in. See if there are any chunkies in the fluid. Metal shavings on the magnet drain plug are normal. It is a direct gear drive system with the PTU. The aluminum foil will protect everything and clean up will be a snap. Clean and re-install the drain plug.

    Route the hose down from near the brake booster. Then tell them to remove vent hose from the top of the PTU and slip that 1/4 inch fuel line hose onto the vent nipple. The hose will be snug and should not slip off. Use that to fill refill the PTU with fluid. This will take some time. The PTU holds roughly 18 oz of fluid. Remove the hose, put the PTU vent hose back on. It's that simple. Should take less then an hour.
     
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  7. krewat

    krewat SHO Member

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    Yeah, I saw your post in another thread ;)

    Thanks for that info, great stuff!

    I do all my own work. The only things I ever have done by someone else is mounting/balancing tires, and warranty work. And even warranty work, I do all the diagnosis up front before I bring it in.

    I even do oil changes myself because I just can't trust anyone. Had a tranny flush done on my '96 t-bird by the Ford dealer I bought it from. When I picked it up, and drove off, suddenly there was smoke everywhere. They had completely covered the driver's side cat with tranny fluid and it was on the verge of bursting into flame. Morons.

    I drove it back, parked right in front of one of the bays, smoke everywhere, and said "YOU clean that up".

    I've done everything from oil changes to rebuilding engines and manual transmissions.

    Changing the PTU fluid should be a snap :smash:
     
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  8. SM105K

    SM105K Land Yacht Pilot Supporting Member

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    I am the same way. I do everything, that I am able too.

    Since you have a PP it is even easier. The clamp holding the PTU vent is the hardest part getting it on and off.
     
  9. krewat

    krewat SHO Member

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    Would still love to find a PID for the PTU temp sensor if there is one.
     
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  10. SM105K

    SM105K Land Yacht Pilot Supporting Member

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    Yeah me too. That would be nice to monitor, esp at the track.
     
  11. krewat

    krewat SHO Member

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  12. SM105K

    SM105K Land Yacht Pilot Supporting Member

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    I will look into my files and see if Brad can shed any light to being able to see PTU on my LiveWire.
     
  13. Matt M PA

    Matt M PA SHO Member

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    I just changed some of my PTU fluid and plan to go at it a few more times until it's all swapped.

    Considering I'll likely be changing 8 ounces at a time, is it OK to mix the Redline with the Ford gear oil. (I assume they are compatible)
     
  14. Christian

    Christian SHO Member

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    I've always been a staunch DIY guy, oil changes, diff fluids, tune ups, electrical, suspension..you name it. Unfortunately (and fortunately) , I have a long and generous warranty and don't want to jeopardize it being honored and giving the warranty provider the opportunity to deny a claim. Yes...I know, "if you provide receipts for oil purchases, etc". But the company could also say, "yes, you bought the oil and filter, but how do we know you put it in the car?" Lot sof what-if scenarios. When the warranty expires in a few years, I'll be laying on my back under the car, cursing, leaving my DNA on exposed bolts, etc.
     
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  15. SHOdded

    SHOdded SHO Member Supporting Member

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    Yes, it should be fine for the short duration they are mixed in. I would have used cheapo full synthetic, like say SuperTech or Valvoline, for the "flushout" period, then when happy all looks good, added in the LWSP. Keeps costs down. But it is fine either way. Once you are on the final fill, then you can "thrash" the PTU :D
     
  16. Eric Morris

    Eric Morris Member

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    Been down that road with an outboard engine that sized up due to a faulty oil injection pump. Dealer never put the warranty in our name, so we never got the recall notice on the oil pump. Anyways, they tried for about 20 seconds to start asking about the oil type we used. Dad told him "There it is in the tank. The tank that's still full because of your faulty injection pump design. If you want to waste your time, go for it. Take a sample and prove we used the wrong oil." Warranty was approved that day.

    If you change your oil and have reasonable evidence to back it up- it's not going to be an issue. It'd be way easier for Ford to just say "denied due to abuse" since you cannot dis-prove abuse of the car. "So, have you stopped beating your wife yet? "

    You can, however, prove the level of oil in the engine at the time of failure, as well as the quality of the oil , and you can cut open the filter to prove it's not been on there for 30K miles. You can also look inside the engine and see if it's 100% perfectly clean, or full of sludge. You have a lot of proof on your side if you change your oil every 5K miles.
     
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