Rear Sunshade Clicking - Fixed!!!

Discussion in 'Generation 4 - Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by itguy08, Nov 12, 2012.

  1. itguy08

    itguy08 SHO Member

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    My rear sunshade started clicking and making racket when putting it in reverse or putting it down. It goes up fine and down fine but instead of stopping the motor will sit there and click for a while and then stop.

    Not wanting to pay almost $800 for the whole assembly, I found a parts diagram and the motor is available sepearately....

    Anyone have one of these apart or have just the motor replaced? The few failures I've found onine they replace the whole thing either under warranty or for $1k...
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2012
  2. itguy08

    itguy08 SHO Member

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    Got it all fixed and hopefully this will help someone else out...

    After getting the sunshade out - it comes out from the top and you have to take the back trim pieces and the sides of the back seats out. I took the motor out and apart and found that the gear had a snapped tooth and that was causing the clicking until it caught and told the sensor it was parked.

    Looking at the parts diagram I found Ford does sell just the motor assembly so you don't have to replace the whole shade mechanism. You want part MM1093. I ordered it from Rock Auto as they were 1/2 of the price ($79) that the Ford dealer wanted ($140-something).

    Got it today and its the motor plus part of the lift assembly. Put it all back together and it works perfectly.

    Hopefully this will save someone from a $600 shade assembly replacement!
     
  3. Paulford8

    Paulford8 SHO Member

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    Had mine replaced under warranty. How much do you think the whole thing weighs? I have actually considered removing the assembly for weight reduction as I almost never actually use it :)
     
  4. itguy08

    itguy08 SHO Member

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    My guess would be around 10 lbs if that. It wasn't that heavy but a bit awkward to manage to get out. There really isn't much to it.

    To get it out you have to take out the rear seat side bolsters, the rear left and right trim and the package shelf cover. It's 8 bolts to get it out and the back 4 are a PITA as the glass is in the way. Once you have it out, secure the connector or wrap it in foam as it will rattle back there like crazy! :)
     
  5. smokin5s

    smokin5s SHO Member

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    sorry for bringing back this post from the dead but do you remember how you got the rear trim pieces out? I got the rear seat folded down, removed the seat side bolsters, unscrewed the one screw on the side trim piece but still couldn't get it out and it felt like I was going to break it. I looked in and there appears to be a piece of plastic still attaching it in the back but it's too thin to be a friction piece. How do I get it out and once I do, will the carpet just slide out?
     
  6. 2013blacksho

    2013blacksho SHO Member

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    Mine was clicking the day I bought the car and I did the same taking it all apart and found the gear tooth broke as well. I pulled the gear out and since it only turns 180 degrees or half the gear I turned it to that position and put it back tested it and was good to go. No parts needed. I guess it's where the tooth broke that makes the difference.
     
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  7. smokin5s

    smokin5s SHO Member

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    Are you sure that's the correct part number? could the 2010 use a different part number? That doesn't look like the motor that I have in mine. It has the bars going across, but mine has a plug that plugs into it, not a plug hanging off of it.
     
  8. gtcs1

    gtcs1 SHO Member

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    HELP PLEASE.

    Hi, I am really fed up of this broken shade. I never used it anyway.

    I would just like to unplug it and leave the shade in the down position. Is there easy access without dismantling too much stuff. What's the simplest way to just unplug this shade. I saw options to remove seat side trims etc. I just hope I cam avoid all of that to reach the connector. Any photos would be appreciated

    These unreliable gismo are not nice. I had to unplug the rain sensor for the wiper, since in Canada, as soon as the winter come, the sensor zone, being enclosed in a plastic cover, doesn't get any heat, so the windshield area over the cover zone freeze and then sensor give funny results; the wipers go crazy at fast speed or sometime doesn't go at all ???

    Isn't basic during design of features to expect freezing in such an unheated area? They should have thought about it. I asked the Ford service man if there is an on-off switch already in the car I could use for the freezing period. He said no and just didn't know what to recommend. I just went ahead and unplugged this thing.

    Now I need to do the same to the rear sunshade.

    Thanks for your help.
     
  9. SilverSH0

    SilverSH0 SHO Member

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    What year car. I know at least in the 10-12 model years you can turn the automatic wipers on/off in the info/setup menu.
     
  10. smokin5s

    smokin5s SHO Member

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    you have to take apart the rear seat in order to unplug it. Sorry.
     
  11. gtcs1

    gtcs1 SHO Member

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    You mean the whole seat? Bottom seat, plus the 2 half backseat that fold down? My car is a 2010. Anyone might have a diagram of that
     
  12. smokin5s

    smokin5s SHO Member

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  13. gtcs1

    gtcs1 SHO Member

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    :evilgrin::biggrin:
    Thanks so much to you and "shobiz" for this detailed info. Since I just want to unplug the shade, not replacing the broken motor, do I skip the step #9, which should cut down significantly the time required to do the whole job ? And when I do so, would you know what do I need to do so I have the shade in the down position (for ever :evilgrin: ) since currently it is staying in the up position all the time.

    Thanks again,
    Pierre
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2016
  14. smokin5s

    smokin5s SHO Member

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    I have a feeling that you actually broke a gear in it like mine did. If that's the case, the only way to keep it down is replace the motor. You can unplug it if you want without taking it out. Maybe you can try pushing it down and zip tying it. If I was you, I'd replace the motor though. Like my wife told me when I was contemplating not putting it back in... no sense to have a car with features that don't work.
     
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  15. jtreber

    jtreber SHO Member

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    After 2 years I also thought I would never use the rear shade until the other night I had a semi truck behind me with the brightest lights making me feel like I was in the spotlight on stage. A flick of the button fixed that issue. Now I'm more likely to use it in the future.
     
  16. Rey123

    Rey123 New Member

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    Just replaced mine. Unfortunately i can already see this happening again. The culprit is a black swivel piece that holds both guide rods on the motor MM1093. This piece is black, made of aluminum and is conveniently up against the window in direct sunlight at all times. All while being required to turn 90 degrees to draw the shade as soon as you get in your car on a hot day to cool it down. After enough hot days, this piece is going to cook and warp again. Two photos of the old sway piece compared to new one i bought on Amazon for $70.
     

    Attached Files:

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  17. Miss Wendy

    Miss Wendy New Member

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    My daughter and I just fixed mine in 20 minutes. We only disconnected the power, I don't use it and don't want to pay $800 in parts and $400 for labor when I just wanted the noise to stop. We couldn't find any instructions on how to do this without replacing something or taking parts out, so we used several instructions and improvised. We did not have to take anything out and we didn't even have to use tools! I will attach pictures to show what we did.
    1. Lower the seats by pulling on the loop by the top of the seat belt.

    2. The carpet covering is connected in 3 places in the front and the connectors just pop in and out. In the back there is a loop where a latch from the side bolster hooks so complete the next step before attempting to remove the carpet piece.

    3. Gently but firmly pull the side bolsters (the plastic coverings just behind the windows) to unhook them from the side of the car. We found it easiest to both unhook and rehook if you start from the back and work towards the side windows. They are designed to pop in and out but are sturdier than the ones holding the carpet in place.
    We didn't take these completely off but removed them just enough to unhook from the back of the carpet piece.

    4. The carpet covering should now side of easily, if you didn't remove the bolsters completely like we didn't, then you need to bow the carpet to remove it. The belts will be connected to this piece but can be tucked to the side so they don't get in the way.

    5. Just in front of the shade is a power box with a white connector for the wires behind it. The are several such boxes under the carpet connecting to the speakers so double check that the only wires go to the shade before you disconnect them. You'll see in the picture that is the one just in front of the shade. To disconnect the wires is much like unhooking a phone line, push down on the small tab and pull back. Tuck the disconnected wire to the side.

    6. Turn the car on and check if the shade functions. The wires shouldn't disable anything else so if anything else doesn't work, like the back up camera, then you probably got the wrong wire. But that's an easy fix as you only need to plug it back into the box.

    7. Follow steps 1-4 in reverse to put it all back together, remember to hook the latch on the bolster back through the loop at the back of the carpet and to work from back to front when reattaching the bolsters so you can see where they latch.

    The image show the loop to fold the seats down, the fasteners at the front of the carpet, the side bolsters half removed, what you should see after the carpet is removed, a close up of the box with the white wire connector that needs to be disconnected (you can just barelysee it behind the box).
    11042.jpeg 11036.jpeg 11045.jpeg 11040.jpeg 11039.jpeg
    Hope this helps!
     
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  18. SHOdded

    SHOdded SHO Member

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    Nice writeup, thanks!
     
  19. met0722

    met0722 New Member

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    Thanks for the writeup Miss Wendy! That was extremely helpful. In fact, I found that with your picture of where the connector is, I didn't even need to take the side bolsters off. I was able to pop off the carpet covering connectors then reach my hand in to disconnect it.

    Much easier than other tutorials I read!
     
  20. TXPony

    TXPony SHO Member

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    Thanks fellow SHO fans! I'm having issues with mine as well and just got finished removing mine. Now I sit and wait for DHL to decide to deliver my new motor. While inspecting the old motor I noticed some signs of rubbing on the motor casing. Not sure if it's a symptom or cause, but at any rate these instructions helped immensely. Hopefully a new motor will be the solution. Mine would not fully go down and instead would pop then go back up only 3/4 of the way.
     

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